^%,-
1/ H
DYER'S ASSISTANT
IN THE
ART OF DYING WOOL
AND
WOOLLEN GOODS.
EXTRACTED FHOM
The Philofcphical and Chymical Works of thofe
MOST IMINENT AUTHORS)
FERGUSON; DUFAY ; IIELLOT; GEOFFERY ;
COLBERT ;
And that reputable French Dyer,
MoNs. DF. JULIENNE.
TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH,
WITH
Additioss a>ul Pp.actlcal Explrime::^.
By JAMES HAIGH,
Late Silk and Muslin Dyer, Leeds,
A NEW EDITION.
PRINTED
For J. Mawman, (SuccefTar to Mr. Duly} in the Poultry,
LONDON:
And for T.Wjlson & R. Spence, the Frmtsrs, F]i^h-Ouf?g,:;e,
YORK.
Jwjo 1800.
THE PREFACE.
HERE are very few arts fo extenfive
as that of dvinsf ; and althoudi thofe
principal comnioditie.-, clotliing and furni-
ture, receive their chief iniprovement and
value therefrom, it is neverthelefs very far
from being brought to perfe6lion. A long
pra^iice, found judgment, and great atten-
tion, will form a good and expert Dyer.
^lany Dyers can work with fuccefs in a
number- of colours only which depend on
each other, and are entirely ignorant of the
rell, or have but a very imperfect idea of
them.
A Philofopher, who ftudies the art of
dying, is in fome meafure afionilhed at the
multiplicity of new objefts which it affords^
every (lep prefents new difficulties and ob-
fcurities, without hopes of any inftrutlion
from the common workmen, who feldom
know more than fafts and culiom. Their
manner of explaining themfelves, and their
common terms, only afford more darknefs,
which the uncommon and often ufeleiscir-
A 2 cumftartce
IV PREFACE.
cumiLances of their proceedings render
more obfcure.
Before we enter into the particulars of
dying v.'ool, it is neccfl'ary to give an idea
<Df the primary colours, or rather of thofe
Avhich bear this name by the artifts ; for it
will appear by reading the celebrated works
of Sir Ifaac Newton on Light and Colours,
that they bear no affinity with thofe which
the Philofophcrs call by that name. They
.are thus named by the workmen, becaufe,
"by the nature of the ingredients of which
they are compofed, they are the bafis from
whence all others are derived. This divi-
fion of colours, and the idea which I intend
to give of them, are alfo common to the
different kinds of dying.
The five primary colours are blue, red,
yellow, brown, and black. Each of thefe
can furniih a great number of ihades, from
the lightefi: to the darkcfl ; and from the
com'binationof two or more of thefe different
fhades, arife all the colours in nature. Co-
lours are oftentimes darkened, or made
light, or confiderably changed, by ingredi-
ents that have no colour in themfelves ;
fuch are the acid, the alkalis, and the neu-
tral falts, lime, urine, arfenic, alum, aiid
fome others ; and in the greatcff part of
dyes, the wool and woollen goods are pre-
pared with fome of thefe ingredients, which
-of
PREFACE. V
of theinfelyes give little or no colour. It
may eafily be conceived what an infinite
variety muft arlfefrom the mixture ol thefe
different matters, or even from the manner
of.ufmg them ; and v/hat attention muit be
given to the minuteft circumilances, fo as
perfectly to fucceed in an art fo complicated,
and in which there are many difiicalties
It is not needful to be very particular In
defcribing the utenfds of a dye-houfe, as
they are commonly known; this v;ork being
defiffned for tlie exoerienccd Dver. A dve-
hoiafe lliouid, however, be erected on a fpa-
cious plan, roofed over, but admitting a
good light, and as nigh as poffible to a run-
ning water, which is very neceffary, either
to prepare the wool before it is dyed, or to
wafli it afterwards. The coppers ihould be
fet at the diftance of eight or ten feet, and
two or m.ore vats for the blue, according to
the quantity of work that is to be carried on.
The moft important point in dying the
primitive blue is to fet the vat properly at
work, and condufct her till llie is in a Itate
to yield her blue.- The fize of the wo^d
vat is not fixed, as it depends upon necef-
fity or pleafure. A vaf containing a^fegf-
head, or half that quantity, has often been
ufed with fuccefs ; but then they muft be
prevented by fome means from cooling too
iliddenly, otherwife thefe fmali vats will fail.,
A S Another
VI PREFACE.
Another kind of vat is prepared for blue :
this is called the indigo vat, becaufe it is the
indigo alone that gives it the colour. Thofe
that ufe the woad vat do not commonly ufc
the indigo one.
Hiere are two methods of dying wool of
any colour j the one is called dying in the
great, the other in the leffer dye. The firft
is done by means of drugs or ingredients
that procure a lafting dve, refill: the atlion
of the air and fun, and are not cafilv ftained
by iliarp or ccrrolive liquors. The contrary
happens to colours of the leffer dye. Tlie
air fades them in a fliort time, more parti-
cularly if expofed to the fun ; mofr liquors
ftain them, fo as to make them lofe their
firft colour. It is extraordinary that, as there
is a method of makino: all kinds of colours
by the great dye, the ufe of the leffer fliould
be tolerated ; but three reafons make it
difficult, if not impoilible, to prevent this
praftice.
]ll. The work is much eafier. Mod co-
lours and fliades which give the greatcft
trouble in the great, are eafily carried on in
the lefler dye.
2d, ^loft colours in the leffer are more
bright and lively than thofe of the great,
3d, For this reafon, which carries more
weight, the leffer dye is carried on much
cheaper than the great. Tliis is fufficiert
to
PREFACE. Vll
to determine fome men" to do all in their
power to carry it on in prcfLrence to the
other. Hence it is that the true knowledge,
of chymirtry, to which the art of dying owes"
its origin, is of fo much ufe.
It may be obferv^ed, that all lading colours
are called colours ot the great, and the others
of the Icfier dye. Sometimes, the firft are
called fine, and latter falfe colours i' but
thefe exprellions are equivocal, for the fine
are fometimes confounded with the high
colours, which are thofe in whofe compo-
fition cochineal enters ; therefore, to avoid
all obfcurity, I fliail call the firil colours of
the greatj.and the latter colours of the IcfTer
dye..
Experiiiients, (which are the beii guides
in natural philofophy as well as arts) plainly
fliow, that the difference of colours, accord-
ing to the foregoing diftintlion, partly de-
pends on the preparation of the fabjeft that
is to be dyed, and partly on the choice of
the ingredients which are afterwards ufed
to give it the colom*. I therefore think it
may be laid down as a general principle,
that all the invifible procefs of dying con-
fifts in dilating the pores of the body that is
to be dyed, and depofiting therein p^irticles
ot a foreign matter, which are to be de-
tained by a kind of cement which prevents
the fun or rain from changing them. To
A 4 make
Via PREFACE.
make choice of the colouring particles of
fach a durability that they may be retained,
and fuiiiciently fet in the pore-s of the fub-
]<^ opened by the heat of boiling water,
then contracled by the cold, and afterwards
plaiftered over with a kind of cement left
behind with the falts ufed for their prepa-
ration, that the pores of the wool or woollen
ftuif ought to be cleanfed, enlarged, ce-
mented, and then contra6\ed, that the co-
louring atom may be contained in a lofting
manner.
Experiments alfo fhow that there is no
colouring ingredient belonging to the great
dye which has not more or lefs an aftringent
and precipitant quality. That this is fuffi-
clent to feparate the earth of the alum; this
carthj icined to the colouring atoms, forms
a kind of laque, fimilar to that ufed by the
painters, but infinitely iiner. That in bright
colours, fuch as fcarlet, where alum cannot
be ufed, another body muft be fubfdtuted
to fupply the colouring atoms (block-tin
gives this bafis to the fcarlet dye). AMien
all thefe fmall atoms of ea^-thy-coloured
iaque have infmuattd themfelves into the
pores of the fubjecl that is dilated, the ce-
ment which the tartar leaves behind ferves
to mafticate thefe atom.s; and lafrly, the
contratfing of the pores, caufed by the cold,
ferves to retain them.
It
PREFACE. Lt
It is certain that the colours of the falfe
dye have that defc6t only becaufe the iiib
jecl is not fufficientiy prepared ; fo that the
colouring particles being only depofited on
its plain furface, it is impollible but the
leaft: atlion of the air or fan mufl: deprive
them of part, if not of the whole. It a me-
thod was difcovercd to give to the colour-
ing parts of dying woods, the necelfary af-
tritlion which they require, and if the wool
at the fame time was prepared to receive
them, (as it is the red of madder) I am con-
vinced, by thirty experiments, that thefe
woods might be made as ufeful in the great,
as they have hitherto been in the Icller dye.
What I have faid lliall be applied in the
fcquel of this Treatife, where 1 llfall fliow
what engaged me to ufe them as general
principles.
I fliould have been glad to have feen a
work of this fort, (knov/ing the great need
there is of a chymical underftanding of this
art) figned with the name of fome perfoii
of difiinclion, to have given it a better face -,
yet, in defeft of that, I was prevailed upon
to undertake the tedious tafic. I dare not
flatter myfelf to have brought it to its laft
perfeftion, as arts daily improve, and this
in particular ; but I hope fome acknovv-
iedgraent will be due to me for bringing
this matter a little further out of that ob-
A 5 fcurity
X PREFACE.
fcurity in which it has laid, and for al^ft-
ing the Dyers in making difcoveries to help
to perfect this moft ufeful art.
I fliall now proceed to examine the five
primar}' colours above mentioned, and give
the different methods of preparing them
after the mofh folid and perm.anent man-
ner.
JAMES HAIGH.
IXTRODVCTION.
THE materials of which cloths are
made, for the moft part are naturally
of dull and gloomy colours. Garments
would confequently have had a difagree-
able uniformity, if this art had not been-
found out to remedy it, and vary their
fliades. The accidental bruifmg of fruits
or herbs, the eflecl: of rain upon certain
earths and minerals might fuggeft the hrll
hint of the art of dying, and of the mate-
rials proper for it. Every climate furnilhes
man with ferruginous earths, v/ith boles of
all colours, with faline and vegetable ma-
terials for this art. The difficulty mulr
have been to find the art of applying them.
But how many trials and elfays mull: have
been made, before thev found out the moll
proper methods of applying them to ftutts,
fo as to liain them with beautiful and lall-
ing colours } In this confUls the principal
excellence of the Dyer's art, one of the
moft ingenious and difficult which we
know.
A 6 Dvinn;
Xll IN'TFxODrCTION.,
Dying is performed by means of limes,
falts, waters, leys, ferm.entations, macera-
tions. Sec. It is certain that dying is very
ancient. Tire Chinefe pretend that thev
owe the difcovery of it to Hoan-ti, jone of
their iirit.fovereigns.
One of the moft agreeable efTects of the
art of dvinc^, is the diverfifvinir the colours
of uuffs, "There are two ways by which
this agreeable variety is produced, either
by needle-work with threads of different
colours, on an uniform ground, or by mak-
ing ufe of yarn of different colours in the
weavins:.
The firft of thefe inventions is attributed
to the Phrygians, a very ancient nation ;
the laft to the Bab}ionians. Many things
incline usto think that thefe arts were k no w^n
even in tlie times of which we are now
treating. The great progrefs thefe arts had
made in the days of Mofes, fuppofes that
they had been difcovered long before. It
appears to me certain, then, that the arts
of embroidery or weaving ftuffs of various
colours, were invented in the ages we are
novv' upon. But I {hall not inlift on the
inanner in which they were then practifed,
as I can fay nothing fatisfactory upon that
fjbjcct.
Another art nearly related to that of
eying, is tliat of cleaning and whitening
garmtr.t?..
INTRODUCTION. Xlll
garments, when they have been ftained and
fullied. Water alone is not fufficient for
this. AVe mull communicate to it, by
means of powders, aflies, &;c. that deterfivc
quality which is neceJTary to extra£l the
llains which they have contracted. The
anpientsknew nothing of foap, but fupplied
the want of it by various means. Job
fpeaks of wafliing his garments in a pit
with the herb borith. This pafl'age fhows
that the method of cleaning garments in
thefe ages, was by throwing them into a
pit full of water, impregnated with fome
kind of allies ; a method which feems to
have been very univerfal in thefe firft times.
Homer defcribes Nauficaa and ber com-
panions walhing their garments, by tread-
ing them with their feet in a pit.
With refpe6t to the herb which Job calls
borith, i imagine it is falworth. This plant
is very common in Syria, Judea, Egypt,
and Arabia, They burn it, and pour water
upon the alhes. This water becomes im-
pregnated with a very ftrong lixivial fait,
proper for taking ftains or impurities out of
wool or cloth.
The Greeks and Romans ufed feveral
kinds of earths and plants inftead of foap.
'Ihe favages of America make a kind of
foap-water of certain fruits, with which
they v.-aili their cotton-beds and other Huffs.
In
XLV INTRODUCTION.
In Iceland tlie women make a ley of allies
and urine. The Perlians employ boles and
marls. In many countries they find earths
which, dilTolved in water, have the property
of cleaning and whitening cloth and linen
All thefe methods might perhaps be prac-
tifed in the primitive ages. The neceflities
of all mankind are much the fame, and all
climates prefent them with nearly the
fame refources. It is the art of applying
them, which diftinguifhes polite and ci-
vilized nations from favagcs and barba-
rians.
«
a?A^-
CONTENTS.
PART I.
OF THE ART OF DYING WOOL AND
WOO Li EN STUFFS.
CHAP. PAGE
I. OfBLUE 19
II. Of the Garden-Woad or Paflel-Vat 22
The Vat fet to work 23
Marks how to conduct a Vat regularly 25
The opening of the Vat ■ 29
The Preparation of Lime, &c. 36, 37
III. Of the Field Woad -Vat 38
IV. The Indigo-Vat 41
Procefs of making the Indigo in America ib.
Method of working the Indigo Vat 43
V. The cold Vat with Urine 47
The hot Vat with Urine 48
Re-heating of the Vat with Urine 51
VI. Of the cold Indigo-Vat without Urine 53
Water of Old Iron . — 54
VII. Of the Method of dying Blue 56
The manufafturing of Paftel, or Garden
Vl'^oad in France ■ 78
Powder of Woad — - — 8i
VII. or
XVI CONTEXTS,
CHAP. PAGE
VIII. Of Red 83
IX. or Scarlet of Grain Si
Preparation of the Wool for Scarlet
of Grain _— — - 85
Liquor for the Kermes — — 86
X. Of Flame-coloured Scarlet — — 95
Compofition for Scarlet 97
Water for the Preparation of Scarlef 100
Reddening 101
Experiments on Cochineal Liquor 114.
Violet witliout Bl-ue 115
XL OfCrirafon 117
LangaedoG Crimlon 120
Natural Crirafon in Grain — — 122
XII. Scarlet of Gum Laque ii>.
XIII. Of the Coccus Polonicus, a colouring
Infeft 126
XIV. OftheRedofMa<kler 12S
Purple with. Madder without Blue 1^6"
XV. OfYLLLOW 137
XVL Of BxowN 141
XVII. Of Black HS
Remarks on the Black D\e ' 150
XVIII. Of ihe Mixture of Blue and Red — 151
XIX. Of the Mixture <4 Blue ai;d Yellow 154
XX. Of the Mixture ot Blue and Brown 155
XXI. Of the Mix I ore of Biue and Black IJ'J
XXII. Of the Mixture of Red arid Yellow /"/•.
XXni. Of the Mixture of Red ai;d Brown 1(32
XXIV Of the Mixture of Yellow and Brown 1-C3
XXV. Of the Mixture of Brown and Black 164-
XXVI. Of the Mixture of the primitive Cokurs
taken three bv three ■■ 165
Variety of Carnation Colours lt>7
XXVII. Of the Manner of mixing Wool of dif-
ferent Colour?, for Cloths, or mixed
Colours, (Colours mixed in the
Loom) 169
XXVIII. Of
CONTENTS. XVU
CHAP. PAGE
XXVIII. Of the Method of preparing the Pattern
Felts, or Mixture for an Eflay 171
XXIX. OfPoIilhRed ■ ■ HS
PART II.
ON THE LESSER DYE.
I. Of the dying of Wool by the Lefler Dye 175
11. Of the dying of Flock or Goats' Hair 177
Sulphuring of Wool ' 183
The Theory of the Dilfolution of Flock ib.
III. Of the Manner of ufing Archil IS?
Baftard Scarlet by Archil 1S9
IV. Of Logwood or Canipeachy ■ 191
The Raven Grey ■ 195
V. Of Saxon Blue and Green ib.
Blue on Cloth, Stuff, or Yarn 196
Chyniic for Green »" 197
VI. Of Brazil Wood 198
VII. OfFuftic . 201
VIII. OfRoucou 203
IX. Of the Grains of Avignon ■ 204<
X. Of Turmeric 205
XI. Of Silver Grey 20G
Another excellent Silver Dye 207
Inftrudions on the Proof of dyed Wool ^
and Woollen StufFs ■■ ».
PART III.
ADDITIONAL ARTICLES.
I, Of Flowers —— . — 217
Of Blud^Iowers — ■ - . 218
Of Red and Yellow Flowers 219, 220
Of White Flowers i . 221
II. Of
XVUl - CONTENTS.
CHAP. PACE
II. Of Fruits 2-22
III. Ot Leaves 226
JV. Mr. Lewis's Hiftory of Madder, and Man-
ner of treating it ■< ■ i ■ 2C3
V. OfFuftic 231
VI. Of Nephritic Wood . , 232
VII. Mr. Fergufon's Hiftory of Logwood as a
colouring Drug ■ ■ ■ 233
VIII. The Procefs of Pruffian Blue 254
IX. Of Alkanet Root . 237
X, Of Alum 238
XI. Chjniical Hiftcrj of Saunders, end its
Diii'erence from other Red- Woods 259
XII. OfVerdign/e 240
TItE
THE
dyer's assistant.
PART I.
CHAP, I.
OF BLue.
WOOL and woollen ftuffs of all kinds, are
dyed blue without any other preparation
than wetting them well in luke-warm water,
fqueezing them well afterwards, or letting them
drain: this precaution is nectflarv, that the colour
may the moreeafily infinuate itfelt into the body of
the wc«l, that it may be equally difperfed through-
out ; nor is this to be O'nitted in any kind of co-
lours, whether ihe fubjetSt be wool or cloth.
As to wool in the fleece, which is ufed in ma-
rufadturing cloth, as well the mixt as ctner forts,
and which they are obliged to dye before ttiey are
fpun, they are prepared in another manner, viz.
they are fcoured, and thereby diveiled of the
natural
20 THE DYERS ASSISTANT.
natural fat they had when on the body of the ani-
mal *, As this operation is properly the Dyer's,
and is indifpenfable in wool which is to be dyed
before it is fpun, let the colour be what it will,
1 fliall give the proper procefs.
This operation is not every where alike, but
this is the method followed in the manufadlory ot
Audly in Normandy, where cloths are moft beau-
tifully manufadured.
A copper containing twenty pails is ufed for
this purpofe j they put twelve pails of water, and
four of urine, (which is generally fermented) the
copper is headed, and when tlie liquor is^fo hot as
to bear the hand without fcsrldiiSg, ten or t A'elve
pouiids of wool, that ftill continues its natural fa-t,
are put in and Itft in tlie copper about a qi>3rter of
an hour, flirring from time to time with flicks j.
it is then taken out and put to drain on a fcray ;
from thence it is carried in a large fquare bafket»
and placed in running v/ater, two men (iirring it
to and fro for a confidcrabie time with long poles,
till it is entirely cleanfed of its fat ; then it is talcen
out and placed in a bafket to drain : while this
wool is thus preparing, a like quantity may be put
into the copper, and thus proceed till the whole is
fcoured. If the liquor is too much wafted, frefli
is to be added, made up of one part urine and
three parts water. They generally fcour a bale of
wool at once; if it weighed 25Clb. in the' fat, it
generally iofes 6olb. in fcouring; but this diminu-
tion of weight varies in proportion to the wool be-
ing more or lefs fcoured, and in proportion to the
more or lefs fat contained therein. Too much at-
tention cannot be paid to the fcouring, as it is
thereby better difpofed for the reception of the dye.
The
* The natural fat adhering to tlie wool preferves it in the wart-
houffj and alio from moths.
THE DYER S ASSISTANT. 21
The fat, which is an oily tranfudation, and
flightly partaking of th« quahty of urine retained
by the fleece, which is too tiuck to let it out, is
foluble in water, ccnfequently, as water alone
could not feparate it, a fourth pnrt of urine is put
into the copper, which nriuft have been kept fome
days, in order to feparate its volatile falts. by fer-
mentation ; (I mean tliat it is necefiary this urine
iliould begin to acquire a ftrong fmell) this volatile
fait, being an alkali, forms with the fat a kind of
foap, which is always the refult of all oils and al-
kalis whatfoever mixed to?;ether. As foon as foap
is formed by the combination of thefe two princi-
ples, it becomes foluble in water, and is confe-
quently eafily carried off. A proof that a true
foap has been formed in this operation, is, that the
water which carries it away, whitens as long as
any fat is feparated from the wool : if there was a
■fufficient quantity of fermented urine in the copper,
the wool will be well fcoured ; if it was not, all
the fat would net be changed into foap, and con-
fequently the \yool will remain greafy. The fame
operation might be performed with fixed alkalis, as
with 'the .lee of pot-a(h or pearl-afhes: but as this
lee would not only come dearer than urine, it
might alfo damage the wool, if the exaft propor-
tion was not applied. I am convinced by feveral
experiments, that thefe cauftic falts do eafily de-
ftroy all animal fubftances, as wool, fi'.k, &c.
1 beg the reader may take notice, that though in
the fequel I do not mention tiiis operation of fcour-
ing, it is neverthelefs neceffary for all wool that is
to be dyed before it is fpun, as alfo that it is necef-
fary to wet thofe that are fpun, and fluffs of all
kinds, that the colour may be the more equally
diffufed throughout.
0(
22 THE dyer's ASSISTANT.
Of the five primary colours mentioned in the
Preface, two ot them require a preparation given
by roncolcuring ingre-'ients, which, by the acidity
and hnenefs of their earth, difpofe the pores of the
•wool to receive the colour. This is called the
preparation i it varies according to the nature of
fnades and colours : the red, the yellow, and the
colours derived from them muft be fo treated ;
black muft have a preparation peculiar to itfelf ;
blue and brown require none ; it is iufHcient that
the wool be thoroughly fcoured and wetted ; and
even for blue, it fuffices to dip it into the vat, flir-
ring it well, and letting it remain, more or lefs,
according as the ground of the colour is wanted.
For this reafon, and ajib that many colours previ-
ouily require a blue ihade to be given to the wool,
I fliall begin with it, and give thereon the moft
exa£t rules in my power. It is an eafy matter to
dye wool blue, when the vat is once prepared, but
it is not fo eafy to prepare the vat, which is the
moil difficult part of the Dyer's art. ]n ail the
other prccefTes, it is fufhcient to follow the fimple
operations tranfmitted from mafters to apprentices.
Three ingredients arc ufed in the blue dye, viz.
garden-woad or pafte), the woad, and the indigo.
I (hall give the preparation of eacl), beginning with
the garden-woad.
CHAP. II.
OF THE GARDEN-WOAD, OR PASTEL- V^^OAD.
THE garden-woad is a plant cultivated in
many parts of Holland and France, and
fDight be in Frgiand or Ireland, to the great ad-
vantage of the hufbandoian ; it is made up in bales,
generally
THE DYER S ASSISTANT. 1^
generally weighing from one hundred and fifty
pounds to two hundred ; it refembles little clods of
dried earth, interwoven with the fibres of plants;
it is gathered at a proper feafon, and laid up to rot,
and then made into fmall balls to dry. Several
circumftances are to be obferved in this preparation;
on this you may fee the regulations of Monf. Colber t
on Dyes ; the beft prepared comes from thediocefe
of Alby in France.
7 he Vatfet to TVork.
A copper, as near as pofTible to the vat is filled
with water that has ftood fome time, or, if fuch
water is not at hand, a handful of Dyer's woad or
hay is added to the water, with eight pounds of
cruft of fat madder. If the old liquor from a vat
that has been ufed in dying from madder can be
procured, it will fave the madder, and produce a
better effedl.
The copper being filled, and the fire lighted
about three in the morning, it muft boil an hour
and a quarter, (fome Dyers boil it from two hours
and a half to three ; it is then conveyed by a fpout
into the woad vat, in which has been previoufly
put a peck of wheaten bran. Whilft the boiling
liquor is emptying into the vat, the balls of woad
niuft be put one after another into the vat, that
they may be the eafier broken, raked, and ftirred ;
this is to be continued till all the hot liquor from
the copper is run into the vat, which, when little
more than half full, muft be covered with cloths
fomewhat larger than its circumference, fo that it
may be covered as clofe as polfible, and left in this
ftate for four hours. Then it muft be aired, that
is, uncovered to be raked, and frefli air let into it;
and to each bale of v^'oad, a good meafure of ware
fiung
24- THE dyer's assistant.
flung In ; this is a concealed name for lime that has
been fljcked. This meafure is a kind of wooden
fhoveJ, which ferves to meafure the lime grofsly j
it is five inches broad and three inches and a half
long, containing near a good handful ; the lime
being fcattered in, and the vat well raked, ii mufl
be again covered, leaving a little fpace of about
four fingers open, to let in air. Four hours after,
ihe muft be raked, without ferving her with lime j
the cover is then put on, leaving, as before, an
opening for the air ; in this manner fhe muft be
let to ftand for two or three hours. Then fhe may
be raked well again, if fhe is not j-et come to
work ; that is, if file does not cafl blue at her fur-
face, and that fhe works or ferments flili, which
may be known by raking and plunging with the
flat of the rake in the vat ; being well raked, (he
is to remain fiill for one hour and a half more,
carefully obferving v;hether fhe cafts blue. She is
then to be ferved with v.ater, and the quantity of
indigo judged necefifary is to be put in : it is com-
monly ufed in a liquid f^ate, the full of a d\e-
houfe kettle for each bale of woad ; the vat being
filled within fix finger-breadths of her brim, is to
be raked and covered as before; an hour after
filling her with water, fhe muft be ferved with
lime, viz. two meafures of lime for each bale of
woad, giving more or lefs according to the quality
of the word, and what may be judged it will fpend
or take of lime.
I hope the reader will excufe my plainnefs ; this
Treatife being wrote for the Dyer, I muft fpeak the
language he is ufed to; the Philofopher will eafily
fubflitute proper terms, which perhaps the v^'ork-
man would not underf^and. There are kinds of
woad readier prepared than others, fo that general
and precife rules cannot be given en this head. It
2 mi "
%
THE dyer's assistant. 25
muft alfo be remarked, that the lime is not to be
put into the vat till rtie has been well raked.
The vat being again covered, three hours after
a pattern niuft be put in, and kept entirely covered
for an hour ; it is then taken out to judge if (he be
fit to work. If fhe is, the pattern muft come out
green, and on being expofed a minute to the air,
acquire a blue colour. If the vat gives a good green
to the pattern, ihe muft be raked, fcrved with one
Of two meafures of lime, and covered.
Three hours after, 'fhe muft be raked, and
ferved with what hme may be judged neceffary ;
fhe is then to be covered, and one hour and a half
after, the vat being pitched or fettled, a pattern is
put in, which muft remain an hour to fee the ef-
tcifts of the vvoad. If the pattern is of a fine green,
and that it turns to a deep blue in the air, another
muft be dipt in to be certain of the tf^tO: of the
vat. If this pattern is deep enough in colour, let the
vat be fiJed up with hot water, or if at hand, with
old liquor of madder, and rake her well. Should
th.e vat ftiU want lime, ferve her with fuch a quan-
tity as you may judge fufticient by the fmell and
handling. This done, fhe muft be again covered,
and one hour after put in your ftuffs, and make
your overture. This is the term ufed for the firft
working of wool or ftuffs in a new vat.
J
Marks by which you may know hoh.v io conducl a
Vat regularly,
A. vat is fit to Work when the grounds are of a
green brown, when it changes, on its being taken
out of the vat, when the flurry is of a fine Turkifli
or deep blue, and when the pattern, which has
been dipt in it for an hour, comes cut of a fine
deep grafs green. When ftie is fit to work, the
B bever
•26 TK£ dyer's assistant.
tever has a good appearance, clear and reddiQi,
ard the drops and edges that are formed under the
rake in lifting up the bever are brown, txamin-
ing the appearance of the bever, is lifting up the
liquor with the hand or rake, to fee what colcur
the iiquor of the vat has under its furface. The
fcdiment cr grounds n:,uft change colour (as has
been already obferved ) at being taken out of the
bever, and muft grew brown by being expofed to
the external air. The bever or liquor tnuft fe^t
neither too rough nor too greafy, and murt not
fn.ell either of lime or lee. Thefe are the d;uin-
guilhing marks of a vat that is ht to work.
Hoiu to know when a Vat is crcclid by too gnat or
too fmall a Quantity of Lime ; Extremes wijich
nH0 be avoided.
When more lime has been put in than was fuf-
ficier.t fcr the woad, it is esfily perceived by dip-
ping in a pattern, which, inftead cf turning to a
beaucl.'Ui grafs green, is only daubed with a fteely
green. The grounds do not change, the vat gives
fcarcely any fiurry, and the bever has a Arong
odor of quick lime, or its lees.
This error is rectified by thinning the vat, in
which the Dyers differ ; fome ufe tartar, others
bran, of which they throw a bufhel into the vat,
more or lefs i9;proportion to the quantity of lime
uied, ethers a pail of urine. In feme places a large
iron channg-diih is made ufe of, Icng enough to
reach from the ground to the top of the vat, this
chatin2;-.dilh or furnace has a grate at a foot diftance
frcm its bottom, and a funnel coming from under
this grate, and afccnding to the top of the chafing-
difh, .which is to give a;r to, and kindle the coais
Vthich are placed en the grate. This furnace is
funk
THE dyer's assistant. 2/
funk in the vat, near to the furface of the grounds,
fo as not to touch them, and is faftened with iron
bars to prevent its rifing. By this method the
Hme is raifed to the furface of the hquor, which
gives an opportunity to take off" with a fieve what
is thought fuperfluous; but when this is taken out,
the neceflary quantity of ware mufi: be carefully
ret^ored to the vat. Others again thin the vat with
pearl alhes, or tartar boiled in ftale urine ; but the
befl: cure, when fhe is too hard, is, to put in bran
and madder at difcretion ; and if fhe be but a little
too hard, it will fufiice to let her remain quiet four,
five, or fix hours, or more, putting in only two
hats full of bran and three or four pounds of mad-
der, which are to be lightly ftrewed on the vat,
after which it is to be covered. Four or five hours
after, flie is to be raked and plunged, and accord-
ing to the colour, that the flurry which arifes from
this motion, aillimes and imprints on the whole
liquor, a fre(h proof is tnade by putting in a
pattern.
If file is cracked, and cafls blue only when fne
is cold, fhe mufl be left undillurbed, fometimes
whole days without raking ; wlien fhe begins to
flrike a tolerable pattern, her liquor mufl: be re--
heated "or warmed; then commonly, the lime,
which feemed lo have loft all power to excite a fer-
rrientation, acquires new ftrength, and prevents
the vat from yielding its dye fo foon. If flie is
to be haftened, fome bran and madder are to be
thrown on, as alfo one or two bafkets of new
woad, which helps the liquor that has been re-
heated to fpend its lime.
Care mufl be taken to put patterns in each
hour, in order to judge, by the green colour which
they acquire, how the lime is worked on. By thefe
trials fhe may be conduced with more exactnefs,
B 2 for
28 THE dyer's assistant.
for when once a vat is crackedv by too great or too
fmall a quantity of lime, (he is brought to bear
with much more difficulty. If while you are en-
deavouring to bring her to work, the bevcr grows
a little too cold, it muft be heated by taking off
fome of the clear, and inftead thereof, adding fome
warm water ; for when the bever is cold, the
woad fpends little or no li^ne ; when it is too hot,
it retards the action of the woad, and prevents it
from fpending ihe lime.; therefore it is better to
wait a little, than to haften the vats to come to
work when they are cracked . A vat is known
not to have been fufHciently ferved with lime, and
that (he is cracked, when the bcver gives no flurry,
but infiead thereof gives only a fcum, and when
(he is plunged or raked, (lie only works, ferments
and hi(res, (this noife is made by a great number of
air bubbles that burft as foon as they form) the li-
quor has alfo the fmell of a common fewer oriink, or
rotten eggs ; it is harfh and dry to the touch : tlie
grounds when taken out do not change, which ge-
nerally happens when a vat is cracked for want of
lime. This accident is chiefiy to be apprehended
when a vat is opened and a dip made in her ; for if
her ftate has not been looked into, both in regard to
the fmell as well as raking and plunging, and that
the Ruffs be imprudently put in when the woad has
fpent its lime, it is to be feared the vat may be loft ;
for tl^.e fluffs being put in, the fmall quantity of
lime that fli!I remains in a ftate to a<St, flicks to
them, the bever is diverted of it, and tlie fluffs only
blotted ; thefe muft be immediately taken out, and
a quick remedy applied to the vat, to preferve the
remaining part of the dye, which is done by put-
ting in three or four meafures of lime, more or lefs,
according as the vat is cracked, and that without
raking her bottom.
It
THE dyer's assistant. 29
It Is alfo to be obferved, that if in raking and
plunging the fermenration ceafes, and the bad fmell
change, it is then to be fuppofed that the bever or
liquor alone has fuffered, and that the grounds are
not yet in want. When the fermentation is in
part or totally abated, and the bever has a fn:iell of
lime, and feels foft to the touch, the vat is to be
covered and left at reft j and if the flurry ftill re-
mains on the vat an hour and a half, a pattern is to
be put in, which muft be taken out one hour after,
and you are to be guided according to the green
ground it will take. But generally vsts that are
thus cracked, are not fo foon brought to a ftaie-fic
for dying.
The Opening of the Vat.
The vat being come to work, the crofs muft be
let down, and about thirty ells of cloth, or the
equivalent of its weight of wool well i'coured,
(which is firft intended to be dyed of a Periian blue
to make a black afterwards) having returned this
ftirring feveral times, which muft have alwa}s been
covered with the liquor, the cloth muft be twifted
on the rings faftened to the jack at the top of tlie
vat ; if it be wool, it is to be dipt with a net, v^'hich
will ferve to wring it : the cloth muft be opened by
its lifts to air it, and to cool the green, that is, to
make it lofe the green colour it had coming out of
the vat, and take the blue. If this cloth or wool
was not deep enough for a mazarine blue by the
firft dipping, it muft get another, by returning into
the vat the end of the piece of cloth which iirft
came out ; and according to the ftrength of the
woad, you muft give to this ftriking two or three
returns, as may be thought neceffary for the in-
tenfity of the blue required. If the woad be good,
B 3 fuch
20 ^ THE dyer's assistant.
fuch as the true L'Auragais is commonly, after tak-
ing out the firft ftirring, a fecond may be put in at
this firft opening of the vat. After' making this
opening, which is alfo called the firft rakinz, the
vat is to be again raked, and fcrved with lime at
difcretion, obferving that it has the fm'ell and touch
conformable to what has been laid down before,
and taking notice, that in proportiofi as the dye di-
minifhes, fo docs the ftrength of the vvoad.
If the vat be in good order at the firft opening,
three or four ftirrings may be made, and the next
day, two or three more, only obferving not to
hurry her, or to work -her as ftrong as at firft.
That the vat may turn to as much profit as pof-
fible for the fiiades of blue ; firft, all ftuffs in-
tended ro be black, are dyed ; then the king's blue;
after thtfe the green brown : the violets and
Turkifti blues are commonly done in the lift rak-
ings of the fecond day of the opening. The third
day, if the vat appears much diminifhed, ftie tnuft
be filled with hot water within four inches of tlie
brim. This is called filling the vat.
The latter end of the week, the light blues are
made, and on Saturday night, having raked the vat,
ihi is to be ferved a little more than the preceding
day, that (he may keep till' Monday.
Monday morning the bever is put on the fire,
by paffing it from the vat into the copper by a
trough, which refts on both ; this clear bever is
emptied to the grounds, and when it is ready to
boil it muft be returned into the vat, raking the
p rounds, as the hot liquor falls from the trough ;
at the fame time may be added a kettleful of prepar-
ed indigo.
When the vat is filled within four inches of the
brim, and well raked, (he muft be covered, and
two hours after a pattern put in, which muft re-
main"
THE dyer's assistant. 3I
main not more than an hour ; linne mud be added
according to the fhade of the green, which this
proof pattern rtiall have tsken, and at the expira-
tion of an hour or two, if the vat has not fufFi^red,
the fluff is to be put in ; hiving conducted it be-
tween two waters for about half an hour, it is
wrung, and a dip is again given to it, as was dor>e
in the new vat. This vat heated again, is con-
cluded in the fame manner, that is, three rakings
are made the firfl day, obferving at each raking,
whether fhe wants iime ; for in this cafe, the
quantity judged neceffary muft be given.
Blue made of woad alone, according to the
opinion of fome perfons prejudiced in the favour
of old cuftoms, is much better than that wliich the
woad gives with the addition of indigo. But then
this blue would be much dearer, beoaufe woad gives
much lefs dye than indigo, and it has been found
by repeated experience, that four pounds of fine
indigo from Guatimala, produced as much as a bale
of Albigeois woad or paftel ; and five pounds as
much as a bale from L'Auragais, which generally
weighs two hundred and ten pounds. So the ufmg
of the indigo with the woad is a great faving, as
one vat with indigo fhall dye as much as three
without it.
Indigo is generally put into new vats after the
woad yields its blue, and a quarter or half after fhe
is to be ferved with lime; as this folution of indigo
is already impregnated with fome of its difTolution^
the lime mufl be given with a more fparing hand
than where the woad is ufed alone. At the re-heat-
ing, the indigo is put in on Saturday night, that
it may incorporate with the bever, and that it may
ferve as garnifh by its lime. The indigo that is
brought from Guatinvala in ^ America is the befl ;
it is brought over in the fhape of fmall flones, and
B4 ©f
32 THE dyer's assistant.
of a deep blue ; it muft be of a deep violet colour
within, and when rubbed on the nail, have a copper
hue ; the lighteft is the beft. It is neceffary to ob-
ferve, that for the better conducting of a woad vat,
and to prevent accidents, a manufacflurer ought to
have a good woadman, this is the name given to
the Journeyman Dyer, whofe principal buiinefs is
to conducl the woad, practice has taught him more
than this treatife can furnifn.
I Ihall make ibme refiedions neceflary to attain
a more perfect knowledge of this procefs. The
woad vat mull never be re-heated but when fit for
working ; that is, fhe muft have neither too much
nor too little lime, but be in fuch a ftate as only to
want heating to com.e to work. It is known file
has too m.uch lime (as has been before obferved)
by the quick fmell ; on the contrary, a want is
known by t])e fwsetiili fmell, and by the fcum which
rifes on the furface by raking, being of a pale blue.
Care muft be taken when a vat is intended to
be re-heated, not to ferve her with lime in the
evening, (unlefs in great want of it) for if flie was
too much ferved wirli it, (lie might next day be too
hard, as the Dyers term it ; for by heating her again,
a greater action is given to the lime, and makes
her fpend it the quicker. Frefti indigo is commonly
put into tlie vat, each time flie is re-heated, in pro-
portion to the quantity to be dyed. It would be
r.eedlefs to put in any, if there was but little work to
do, or only light colours wanted. It was not per-
mitted by the ancient regulations of France, to
put more than ftx pounds of indigo to eacli b^le of
v.oad, becaufe the colour of the indigo was thought
not lafting, and that it was only the great quantity
of woad v.hich cculd fecure and render it good ;
but it is now afcertained, both by tlie experiments
of Moniieur Dufay, and thofe which 1 have fmce
made
THE dyer's assistant. 33
made, that the colour of indigo, even ufed alone,
is full as good, and refifts as much the adion of the
air, fun, and rain, as that of paftel or woad.
When a vat has been heated two or three times,
and a good part has been worked off, the fame li-
quor is often preferved, but part of the grounds are
taken our, which is replaced by. new woad j (this
is called vamping); the quantity cannot be pre-
fcribed on this occafion, for it depends upon the
work the Dyer has to do. Practice will teach all
that can be wiflied for on this head. There are
Dyers who preferve liquor in their vats feveral years,
renewing them with woad and indigo in propor-
tion as they work them ; others empty the vat en-
tirely, and change the liquor when the vat has been
heated fix or feven times, and that (he gives no
more dye. A feries of pradice alone will Ihow
which of thefe is preferable. It is however more
reafonable to think, that by renewing it now and
then, more lively and beautiful colours may be
obtained, and the beft Dyers follow this method.
In Holland they have vats v.'hich do not require
to be fo often heated. Mr. Van Robbais had iome
of thefe made fome years fince for their royal ma-
nufadtory at Abbeville. The upper parts of thefe
vats, to the height of three feet, are of copper, and
the reft lead : They are alio furrounded with a
fmall brick wall, at feven or eight inches from the
copper ; in thi'j interval embers are put, wh.ich
keep up the heat of the vat a long time, fo that fhe
remains feveral days together in a condition to be
worked, without the trouble of heating her over
again. Thefe vats are much more coftly than the
others, but they are very convenient, efpeciaily for
the dipping of very light colours ; becaufe the vat
is always lit to work, though fhe be very weak ;,
this is not the cafe of the others, which oencrally
p ^ • <
34- THE DYER S ASSISTANT.
m:.k.e the colour a E-^eat deal deeper than required,
unlefs they are fet to cool confiderably, and then it
happens that the colour is not fo g^od, nor has it
the fame bnghtnefs. To make t ii:fe light colours
in common vats, it is better to work fome pui pofely
that are ftrong with woad and weak of i."dii:o ;
fuch give their colours flower, and light colours are
made with greater eafe.
As to the vats made after the Dutch fafhion,
and vvr.icii have already been mentioneJ, the four
w'l.ich Mr. Van !<.^b'oais has in his manutaclory,
are fix feet in depth, of which three feet and a half
in the upper pan are copper, and the two feet and
a half of the bottom are lead. Fhe diameter at
the bottom is four feet and a half, and that at the
top live feer four inches.
To return to the obfervations on heating the
common vats. If the vat was heatel when cracked,
that is, when (he has- net quit? lime enough, rtie
would turi. in the heating without being perceived,
and perchance be entirely loft, as the- beat vve-uld
foon finifh the fpcnding of the lirr.e. which was in
too fmnli a quantity. If this is perceived in time,
it muft be helped by pouring it back into tl,e vat
without more heatmg ; then feed her v.ith lime,
and not heat her till {he is come to work.
On the re-p.esting. fome of the grounds muft be
put into the crpper with the liquor or beverj and
irreat care muft be taken not to boil it, becaufe the
volatile neceffary in this operation would evaporate.
There are fome Dyers, who, in heating their vats,
do not pat in the in./igo immediately after the liquor
is pour^c" from the c pper into the var, but wait
fome hr urs till they fee her come to work : (his
they do z^ a precautiun, left tlie vat ftiouid fail, and
the indigo be left ; but by this method, the indigo
does not fo freely yield its colour, as they are
obliged
THE dyer's assistant. 35
obliged to work her as foon as (he is fit, that (he
may not cool, lb thAt the indigo, not being entirely
diflblved, nor altogether incorporated, has no effect:.
Jt is therefore better to put it into the vat at the
/ame time the liquor is caft in, and rake her well
after. If th3 vat is heated over again without her
cofning to work, fhe muft not be fcummed as in
the common heatings, as the indigo would be car-
ried off thereby, whereas, when Ihe has worked,
this fcum is formed of the earthy part of the indigo
and woad, united with a portion of lime.
When too much lime is put into a vat, you muft
wait for her till fuch time as fhe has fpent it, or it
may be accelerated by heating it, or by putting in
ingredients which deftroy in part the a£tion of the
lime, fuch as tartar, vinegar, honey, bran,fome mine-
ral acid, or any matter that will become four; but all
thefe correctors wear out the dye of the indigo and
woad, fo that the befl method is", to let it fpend of
its own accord. A vat is not commonly fed with
lime, but on the firft, fecond, and fometimes the
third day, and it is a!fo remarked, not to dip the
violets, purples, or any other wool or fluffs which
have previously a colour that may beeafily damaged;
the fucceedmg day after its being fed with lime,
as it is then too aftive, it dulls the drft colour ; the
firth or fixth day the crimfon may be dipt to give
them a violet, and the yellows for green ; foilowmg
this rule, the colours will always be bright.
When a vat has been re- heated, (hz pnufl: come
to work before fhe is ferved with lime; if this was
done a little too foon, (he would be cracked ; the
fame thing would happen if fome of the grounds
were put into the copper. The moft efFectual me-
tl)od in this i-afe is to let her relt before (he is
worked, until (he comes to, whicti often happens ■
in two, three, or fdur hours, and fometimes a day.
B6 Byy
36 THE dyer's assistant.
By ufing light or weak, lime, (he grows too hard ;
becaufe this light lime remains in the liquor, and
does not incorporate with the grounds. This is
known by the ftrong fmell of the liquor, and on
the contrary the grounds have a fweetifh fmell,
whereas the fmell ought to be equal in both. The
beft way then is, to let it fpend itfelf, by raking
her often, in order to mix the lime with the grounds,
until the fmell of the vat is reftored, and the flurry
becomes blue.
A woad vat may be fet without the addition of
indigo, but then fne yields but little colour, and
only dyes a fmall quantity of wool or fluffs ; for
one pound of indigo, as has already been obferved,
affords as much dye as fifteen or fixteen pounds of
woad. J fet one of this kind to try the qualities of
v.'oad by itfelf, and I could not find that indigo was
any way inferior to it, either for the beauty or fo-
lldity of the colour. As lime is alwaysufed, and
fometimes four liquors, in the fetting of a vat, this
is the proper place to fpeak of their preparation.
Preparation of Lime.
That the lime may be properly flacked for the
Dyer's ufe, feveral pieces are immerfed in water,
one after another, and when each has remained till
it begins to crackle, they are taken out to put in
others, and after this manner they are caft into an
empty vefTel, where the lime finifhes flacking, and
reduces itfelf to powder, confiderably augmenting
its bulk ; it is afterwards fifted through a canvas,
and kept in a dry hogfhead.
Sour liquors are not only neceffary in fome cir-
cumftances of fetting a woad vat, but alfo in fome
of the preparations given to wool and fluffs pre-
vio\:s
THE dyer's assistant. 37
vlous to their being dyed ; they are prepared after
the following manner.
Preparation 0/ ^our Liquors,
■ •" ,-< ; :,{\r\ ' '.^- •
A copper of the fize required is filled with r^^ver
water, and when it boils, it is flung into a hog-
Ihead, where a fufficient quantity of bran has been
put, and ftirred with a ftick three or four times a-
day. The proportion of bran and water is not
very material ; I have made a good liquor by put-
ting three buHiels of bran into a veffel containing
two hundred and fourfcore quarts. Four or five
days after, this water becomes four, and confe-
quently fit for ufe in all cafes, where it will not be
detrimental to the preparations of wool that are
independent of dying.
For it may happen, that wool in the fleece which
has been dyed in a liquor where too great a quan-
tity of fourwater has been pur, will be harder to
fpin, as the fediment of the bran forms a fort of
ftarch that glues the fibres of the wool, and pre-
vents their forming an even thread. I-muft here
take noticeof the bad cuftom of letting fourliqucrs re-
main in copper- vefliels, as I have feen in fomeeminent
dye-houfes; for this liquor being an acid, corrodes
the copper, and if it remains long enough to take
in a portion of this metal, it will caufe a defect
both in the dye and in the quality of the fluff: in
the dye, becaufe the diflblved copper gives a greenifli
caft; in the quality of the ftufi^, becaufe the copper
diflblved preys on all animal fubftances. The
Dyers are often ignorant of the caufe of thefe de-
fers.
I flatter myfelf to have omitted no effential point
on the woad vat : if any difficulties or accidents,
which I have mentioned, are not found in the prac-
tice-
38 THE dyer's assistant.
tice t'ey are not cot;fiderabie, and an eafy remedy'
v;ill be found by thofe who make thcmfelves fami-
liar with the working part.
1 he reai-iers who hj" ".no idea of this work, may
, . , ,. Is ho, • ' 1 /
think me too prohx, ano nr.d repetitions ; but thole
who intend to make ufe of what I have taug!;t in
this chapter, will perhaps reproach me foTnot hav-
ing faid enough on the fubj:61:.
Thole that read this chapter with attention, will
not be furprized that the mafter-pi'sce for appren-
tices to Dyers of the great dye, is, to fet the woad
vat and work her.
CHAP. in.
OF THE FIELD WOAD VAT.
I HAVE but little to fay on this woad vat, dif-
fer en r^frdrh' that wl'iich hag been related of the
-paftel or garden woad. The woad is a plant cul-
tivated in Nor. randy, arid prepare- after the Ta-ne
manner the garden woad is m Languedoc. The
method of cultivatii:g it may be fceh in the French
''General Irllruiftions on Dy.'s," of the '28th of
March, 1671, from the article 259 to 288, where
it treats of the culture and preparation of the paf^el
and woad. The woad vat is fet at work after the
fame manner as that of paftcl ; all the difference
is that it has Icfs flrergth and yields lefs dye. There
follows a dcfcription of the woad vat, which I car-
ried on in fii:all, and in a bath heat fimilar to that
of the psi^ei in the foregoine chapter.
I placed in a copper a fmall vefle! containing
fifty quarts, and filled two-thirds with a liquor
made of river water, one ounce of madder, and a
little weld, putting in at the fame time a good
handful
THE dyer's assistant. 39
handful of wheaten bran and live pounds of woad.
The vat was well rnkcd anc: covered ; it was then
five in the evening ; it W\\s agam rake.i at feven,
nine, twelve, two, and four o'clock j the woad was
then working, that is, the vat was flovviy coming
to work, as i have already related of that of the
paftel.
Pretty large air bubbles forined theinfelves, but
in a faiall quantity and had fcarcelv a!;y colour.
She was then ferved with two ounces of linie and
raked. At five o'clock a pattern was put in; v/hich
was taken out at fix, raking her; this pattet'n be-
gan to have fome culour ; another was put in at
feven, at ei.;ht flie was raked, and the pattern came
out pretty bright ; aii evince of indigo wa? then
put in ; at nine another pattern, at ten (he was
raked, and one ounce of lime was added, becauf'e
(he began to have a Iwtetilh fmell ; at eleven a
pattern, at twelve flie was raked ; it was thus con-
tinued till five, then three ounces of indigo were
put in, at fix a pattern, at feven (he was raked. It
would then have been proper to have ferved her
with water., as ihe was at that time perfeclly come
to work, the pattern that was taken out being very
green, and turning' of a bright blue. But befidcs
that I was fatigued, having fat up the whole night,
1 chofe rather to put her back to the next day, to
fee her efFe<5l by day-light , and for that purpofe, I
put one ounce of lime, which kept her up till nine
in the morning: from time to tiire patterns wefe
put in, the laft that w;;s taken out was very beauti-
ful ; file v^'3s ferved with a liquor compofed of water,
and a fmall handful of bran. She was raked, and
patterns put in from hour to hour ; at five fhe was
come to work ; ihe was afterwards ferved with
lime, and raked to prefcrve her till fhe was to be
re- heated.
Some
40 THE dyer's ASSISTAN-T.
Some time after I fet another with the woad alone
without indigo, that I might be able to judge of the
lafting of the dye of the woad, which, upon trial,
I found to be as good as the paftel or garden woad.
Thus all the fuperiority the paftel has on the woad,
is, that the latter yields iefs dye than the former.
The little varieties that may be obferved in fet-
ting thefe different vats at work, prove, that there
are many circumftances in thefe procefTes that are
not abfolutely necefTary. It appears to me, that the
only important point, and that to which the great-
eft attention is to be given, is, in the condudling
the fermentation with care, and not to ferve her
with lime, but when judged neceflary by the indi-
cations I have laid do\Nn. As to tb.e indigo being
put in at twice, or altogether, a little fooner or
later, it appears very indifferent. The fame may
be faid of the weld, which I made ufe of twice,
and fupprefied the two other times, and of pearl-
alhes, which I added in a fmall quantity in the
fmall paftel vat, and fupprefled in the woad vat.
In fhort, I believe, and it appears to me to a de-
monftration, that the greateft regard is to be had
to the proper diftribution of the lime, throughout
the whole ccurfe of the working of the vats, either
to fet them at work, or to re-heat tliem. I muftr
alfo add, tliat wlien a wcad vat \k fet to work, fhe
cannot be too often infpeited into to know her
ftate ; for if there are fome that are backward
(which is attributed to the weaknefs of the woad)
there are alfo others that very quickly come to-
work. I have feen a middling one of feventy
pounds of woad, poifoned j becaufe the woad man
neglecled to infpefl her as often as Ihe required,
and file had been two hours fit to work before
he difcovered it ; the grounds were entirely com.e
up to the furface of the liquor, and ths whole had
a very.
THE dyer's assistant. 4I
a very four fmell ; It was not pofllble to bring her
back, and they were obliged to fling her away, as
fhe would in a fhort time have dontradled a fcctid
fsnell. The retarding of the adion of the vat
may alfo proceed from the temperature of the air ;
for the vat cools a great deal fooner in winter than
in fummer; tlierefore it becomes neceffary to watcli
it attentively, though commonly they are fourteen
or fifteen hours before they come to work.
I fhall endeavour to explain, in the fequel, how
the colouring part of this ingredient, fo neceffary
in dying, difplays itfelf; but I mufl: firft of ail
fpealc ot vats which are prepared from indigo.
CHAP. IV.
THE INDIGO VAT.
Procefs of making the Indigo in America.
INDIGO is the fecula of a plant named 7//// or
anil; to make it, three vats are placed the one
over the other, in form of a cafcade ; in the firft,
called the ffeeper, the plant is put in with its leaves,
•bark, and flowers *, and filled with water; fome
time after, the whole ferments, the water grows
intenfely hot, thickens, and becomes of a blue
colour bordering on the violet; the plant, accord-
ing to the opinion of fome, depofmg all its lalts,
and,^ according to others, all its fubftance. In
this ftate, the cocks of the fleeper are turned, and
all the water let out ftained with the colouring
* In the village of SarguJTa, near the town of Amadabat, the
Imljans only iife tlie leaves of the anil ; they fling away the reft
of the plant. The bell indigo comes from thence.
parts
42 THE DYER S ASSISTANT.
parts of the plant into the fecond, called the beater j
becaufe this water is beat by a mill or machine that
has long iVicks, to condenfe the fubftance of the
indigo, and precipitate it to the bottom. By this
means the water becomes clear and colourlefs, Hke
common water; then the cocks are turned, that
the water may run off from the furface of the blue
fediment ; after which, other cocks are turned that
are at the bottom, that all the fecula may fall into
the third vat, called the repofer; for it is there the
indigo remains to dry ; it is then taken out to be
made into cakes, &c. See, en this fubjeift, Hif-oire
des Antilles^ pare le Pert Labett.
At Pondicherry, on the coaft of Coromande],
tliere are two kinds of indigo, the one a great deal
finer than X.\\t other ; the beft is feldom ufcd but to
lufrre their filks, the inferior in dying. They
augment in price according to their quality; there
is fo-.ne which coft from jf pagcdas the bar (which
weighs 48 pounds) to 2C0 pagodas. The moft
beautiful is prepared nigh Agra. There is alfo a
very good kind tiiat comes from MafiJupatan and
Ayanon, where the Eaft-Tndia Company have a
fsclory. At Chandernagcr it is called nil! when
it is prepared and cut to pieces. The indigo of
Java is the beft of &11 ; it is alfo the r^eareft, and
confequently few Dyers ufe it. Good indigo ought
to be fo light as to float on the_ water; the more it
finks, the more it may be fufpeiled of being adul-
terated by a mixture of eartn, cinders, or pouiided
fiates. It muft be of a deep blue, bordering on
the violet, brilliant, lively, and ihining ; it muft
be finer within, and appear of a Ihining hue. Its
goodncfs is tried by diffolving it in a giais of water ;
if it be unmixed and well prepared, it wiiidilTolve
entirely J if fophiftlcated, the foreign matter will
fink to the botto>n. Another method of trying
it
THE dyer's assistant. 43
it is by burning ; good indigo burns entirely away,
and when adulterated, the mixture remains after
the indigo Is ccnfumed.
Powdered indigo is much more fubje£t to adul-
teration than that which is in cakes : for it is a dif-
ficult matter that fand, powdered Hates, &c. fhould
unite fo as not to form together in different places
layers of different matters j and, in this cafe, by
breaking the lump indigo, it is eafily difcovered.
Alethod of working the Indigo Vet.
There are feveral methods of preparing the in-
digo vat } I fried all tliofe I knew, and they all
fuccecded. I (hall defcribe them after the mcft exait
manner, beginning v.'ith that which is the moft in
ufe, and ahncfl: the only one known ar Paris.
It is a vat which is about five feet in height,
two feet diameter, and becomes narrow towards
the bottom ; fhe is furrounded with a wall that
Jeaives a fpace round her, which ferves to hold
embers. Jn a vat of this fize, two pounds of in-
digo may at leaft be ufed, and five or fix for the
greateft proportion. To fet a vat of two pounds
of indigo in fuch a veiTel that may contain about
fourfcore quarts, about fixty quarts of river water
are fet to boil in a copper for the fpace of half an
hour, with two pounds of pearl afhes, two ounces
of madder, and a handful of bran j during this,
the indigo is prepared after the following manner :
', Two pounds of it are weighed out, and caft
into a pail of cold water to feparate the earthy
parts. The water is afterwards poured off by in-
clination, and the indigo well ground ; a little
warm water is put into it, (baking it from fide to
fide ; it is poured by inclination into another veffei;
what remains is ftill ground, and frefh water put
in,
44 THE DYER S ASSISTANT.
in to carry off the fineft parts, and thus continued
till all the indigo is reduced into a powder, fine
enough to be raifed by the water. This is all the
preparation it undergoes. Then the liquor which
has boiled in the copper with the grounds are pour-
ed into the high and narrow vat, as ilkewire the
indigo; the whole is then raked with a fmall rake,
the vat is covered, and eir.bers placed round her.
If this work was begun in the afternoon, a few
embers are added at night ; the fame is repeated the
next day morning and night. The vat is alfo
lightly raked twice the fecond day; the third day,
the embers are continued to be put round, to keep
up the heat of the vat ; {he is raked twice in the
day: about this time, a fhining copper-coloured
fkin begins to appear on the furface of the liquor,
and appears as if it was broken or cracked in fe-
veral places. The fourth day, by continuing the
fire, this fkin or pelicle is more formed and clofer ;
the flurry, which rifes in raking the vat, appears,
and the liquor becomes of a deep green.
When the liquor is in this (late, it is a lign that
it is time to h.l che vat. For this purpofe a frefli
liquor is made, by putting into a copper about
twenty quarts of water, with one pound of pearl
afhes, a handful of bran, and half an ounce of
madder. This is boiled a quarter of an hour, and
the vat is ferved with it ; (lie is then raked, and
caufes a great quantity of flurry to rife, and the
vat comes to work the next day ; this is known by
the quantity cf flurry with which fhe is covered
by the fkin or copper-fcaly cruft which fwims on
the liquor, which, although it .appears of a blue-
brown, is never thelefs green underneath.
This vat wa-, much longer coming to its colour
than the others, becaufe the fire was too ftrong
the fecond day, oiherwire fee would have been fit
to
THE dyer's assistant. 45
to work two days fooner. This did no other
damage but retarded her, and the day (he came to
work, we dipt in ferges weighing thirteen or four-
teen pounds. As this caufed her to lofe her
ftrength, and the liquor being diinin.ifhed by the
pieces of ftufF that had been dyed in her, Ihe was
ferved in the afternoon with frefh liquor, made
with one pound of pearl afhes, half an ounce of
madder, and a handful of bran ; the whole was
boiled together in a copper for a quarter of an hour;
the vat being ferved with it the was raked, covered,
and a few embers put round. She may be pre-
ferved after this manner feveral days, and when fhe
is wanted to work, flie niuft be raked over night,
and a little fire placed about her.
When there is occaflon to re-heat, and add in-
digo to this kind of vat, two thirds of the liquor
(which then is no more green, but oi a blue-brown
and almoft black) is put into a copper ; when it is
ready to boil, all the fcum that is formed at the top
is taken off with a fieve ; it is afterwards made to
boil, and two handfuls of bran, a quarter of a
pound of madder, and two pounds of pearl aHies
are added. The fire is then removed from the
copper, and a little cold water caft into it to ftop
the boil ; after which the v/hole is put into the vat,
with one pound of powdered indigo, diluted in a
portion of the liquor as before related ; after this
the vat is raked, covered, and fome fire put round ;
the next day flie is fit to work.
When the indigo vat has been re-heated feveral
times, it is neceflary to empty her entirely, and to
fet a frefh one, or fhe will not give a lively dye ;
when fhc is too old and flale, the liquor is not of
fo fine a green as at firft.
I put feveral other vats to work after the fame
method, with different quantities of indigo, from
one
46 THE dyer's assistant.
one pound to fix ; always obfervin^ to augment or
diminilh the other ingredients in propcrtion, but
always one pound cf pearl afhes to each pound of
indigo. 1 have fince made other experiments,
which proved to me that this proportion was not
abfolutely neceiTar}' ; and I make no doubt but
that feveral other means might be found to make
the indigo come to as perfedl a colour. I fliall,
nevertlielefs 5 proceed to Tome ether obfervations on
this vat.
Of ail thcfe I fct to work, after the manner de-
fcribed, one only failed me, and that by neglect-
ing to put fire round her the tecond day. She never
came to a proper colour ; pov/dered arfnic was put
in to no effect; red-hot bricks were alio plunged
in at different times ; the liquor turned of a green-
ilh hue, but never came to the proper colour ; and
having attempted feveral other means without fuc-
cefs, or without being able to find out the caufe of
her not fucceeding; I caufed the liquor to be emp-
tied and ca{\ away.
All the other accidents that have Iiappened me
in conducting ihe indigo vat, have only lengthen-
ed the operation ; fo that this procefs may te look-
ed upon as very eafy when compared to that of the
woad vQt. I have alfo made feveral^ experiments
on both, in which my chief view was to ihorten
the time of the common preparation ; but not
meeting with the delired fuccsfs, I fhall not relate
them.
The liquor of the incigo vat is not ex^dlly like
that of the woad ; its furface is cf a blue- brown,
covered with coppery fcales, and the under part of
a beautiful green. I he ftuff or wool dyed in this
is green when taken out, and becomes blue a mo-
ment after. — ^Ve have already feen that the fame
happens 10 the fluff dyed in the woad vat; but it is
remaikable,
THE DYER S ASSISTANT. 47
remarkable, that the liquor of the laft is not green,
and yet produces on the wool the fame effed: as
the other. It muft alfo be obferved, that if the
liquor of the indigo vat be removed out of the
, veflel in which it was contained, and if too long
expofed to the air, it lofes its green and all its qua-
lity, fo that, although it gives a blue colour, that
colour is not lafting.
I (hall examine this more particularly in the fe-
quel, and endeavour to give the chymical theory of
this change.
C H A P. V.
THE COLD VAT WITH URINE.
A VAT is alfo prepared with urine, which
yields its colour cold, and is worked cold :
for this purpofe four pounds of indigo are powder-
ed, which is to be digefted on warm afhes twenty-
four hours, in four quarts of vinegar ; if it is not
then well difTolved, it muft be ground again with
the liquor, and urine is to be added little by little,
with half a pound of madder, which muft be well
dikjted by ftirring the liquor with a ftick ; when
this preparation is made, it is poured into a veflel
filled witli 250 quarts of urine ; it matters not
whether it be frelh or ftale ; the whole is well flir-
red and raked together night and morning for eight
days, or till the vat appears green at the furface
when raked, or that (lie m.akes flurry as the com-
mon vat ; (he is il^en fit to work, without more
trouble than pievioufly raking her two or three
hours before. This kind of vat is extremely con-
venient, for when once fet to work, Ihe remains
good till fhe be entirely drawn, that is, till the in-
digo
4? THE dyer's assistant.
digo has given all its colour ; thus fhe may be'
v.orked at all times, whereas the common vat muft
be prepared the day before.
This vat may at pleafure be made more or lefs
confiderable by augmenting or diminilhing the in-
gredients in proportion to the indigo intended to
be made ufe of; fo that to each pound of indigo
add a quart of vinegar, two ounces of madder, and
fixty or feventy quarts of urine. This vat comes
fooner to work in fummer than in winter, and
may be brought fooner to work by warming fome
of the liquor without boiling, and returning it into
the vat; this procels is fo fimple that it is almoft
impofTible to fail.
When the indigo is quite fpent, and gives no
more dye, the vat may be charged again without
fetting a new one. For this purpofe, indigo muft
be difiuived in vinegar, adding madder in propor-
tion to the indigo, pouring the whole into the v::t,
and raking her night, and morning, and evening as
at firft, {he will be as good as cefcre ; however fhe
muft not be charged this way above four cr five
times, for tlie ground of the madcier and iniligo
would cuil the liquor, and in confeqoence render
the colour Isfs bright. I did not try tliis metiiod,
and therefore do not anfwer for the fuccefs ; but
here fellows another with urine wir.ch gives a very
lafting blue, and which 1 prepared.
Hot Vat with Urine.
A pound of Indigo was lleeped twenty-four
hours in four quarts of clear urine, and when the
urine became very blue, it was run through a fine
fieve into a pail, and the indigo which could not
pafs, and which remained in theHeve, was put with
four quarts of frefh urine 5 this was fo continued
THE DYER S ASSISTANT. 49
till all the indigo had parted through the ficve vviih
the urine ; this lafted about two hours. At four
in the afterncon three hoj^fheads of urine were put
into the copper, and it was made as hot as could
be without boiling. The urine cart up a thick
fcum, which was taken up with a broom and caft
out of the copper. It was thus fcummed at dif-
ferent times, till the-e only remained a white and
ligjit fcum ; the urine, by this means fufRciencIy
purified and ready to boil, was poured into the
wooden vat, and tlie indigo prepared as above, put
in ; the vat was then raked, the better to mix the
indigo with the urine: fo on after, a liqucr was
put into the vat, made of two quarts of urine, a
pound of roach-alum, and a jiound of red tartar.
To make this liquor, the alum and tartar were firft
put into the mortar, and reduced to a tine powder, '
upon which the two quarts of urine were poured,
and the whole rubbed together, till this mixture,
which rofe all of a fudden, ceafed to ftrment : it
was then put into the vat, which was ftrongly raked;
and being covered with its wooden cover, (he was
left in that ftate all night ; the next morning the
liquor was of a very green colour ; this was a flgn
rtie was come to work, and that (he might have
been worked if thought proper, but not!un<y was
dyed in her; for all that was done, was only, pro-
perly fpeakii-.g, the firfl preparation of the vat, and
the indigo which had been put in was only intended
to feed the urine, fo that to finifh the prepnraticn
the vat was let to reft for two days, a'ways covered,
that ftie might cool the flower; then a fecond
pound of indigo was prepared, ground with puri-
fied urine as before. About four in tie afternoon
all the liquor of the vat was put into the copper ;
ii was heated as much as poflible without boiling ;
fome thick fcum formed on it which was taken ()ii\
^ and
to THE DYik's ASSISTANT.
aii'' the liquor being ready to boll was returned into
the vat. At the fame time the ground indirro was
put in, with a liquor made as above of one pound ot
alurn, one pound of tartar, and two quarts of urme,
a frefn pound of madder was alfo zAdcd ; then the
vat was raked, well covered, and left fo the whole
niaht. The next morning fhe was come to work,
the liquor beine very hot, and of a very fine green,
file was worked with wcol in the fleece, of which
thirty pounds were put into the vst. It was weh
extended and worked between the hands, that the
liquor might the mere eafily fcak into it ; tl'.en it
was left at red for an hour or tv\o, according as
lighter or deeper blues are required.
All this time the vat was well covered, that_it
might the better retain its heat, for the hotter the
is, the better (he dyes, and when cold acts no more.
When the wool came to the (liade of the blue re-
ouired, it was taken out of the vat m parcels, about
the bignefs of a man^s head, iwirted and wrung
over the liquor as they v.-ere taken out, ti 1 from
£re^n,as they were coming out of the vat, they be-
came blue. This change from green to blue iS
made in three or four minutes. Thefe thirty
vpounds being thus dyed, and the green taken oft,
the vat was raked, and fuffered to reft for two
hours, being all th:it time well covered ; then thirty
pounds more were put in, which was wdl extended
^vilh the hands, the vat was covered, and in tour
or five hours this wool was dyed at the height or
fhade of the firft thirty pounds ; it was then taken
out in heaps, ann the green taken off as betore.
This done, the vat had ftillfome little heat, but not
fufficient to eye frefh wool ; for when ^^ has rtot
a fufiicient heat, the colour (he gives would neitlier
be uniform nor lalVing, fo that it muft be re- heated,
and fredi indigo put in as before. This may be
THE dyer's assistant. 5I
done as often as judged proper, for this vat does
not fpoil by age, provided, that whilft (ho is kept
without working, a little air is let into her.
Re- beating of the Vat with Urine.
About four in the afternoon, the whole liquor
of the vat was put into a copper, and a fufticicht
quantity of urine added to this liquor, to make up
tl\e deficiency that had been loft by evaporation
during the preceding work. This -filling com-
monly takes eight or nine pails of urine j the liquor
was then heated and fcummed as before, and whea
ready to boil, returned into the vat with a pound
of indigo, and the liquor above defcri'oed, confuT:-
ing of alum and tartar, of each one pound, mad-
der one pound, and two quarts of urine. After
raking the vat well, and covering her, Pae was left
at roft the whole night.
Tlie next day fhe came to work, and fixty pounds
of wool were dyed in her at twice as before, it is
after this iv.anner all the re- heatings mull be done
the evening before the dying,and thefe re- heatings
may extend to infinity, as the vatjOnce fet, ferves a
long ti ;.■!€.
i muff here obferve, that the greater the quan-
tity of in<.li;i;'. put in at once is, the deeper the blue:
thus, indcad of one pound, four, five, or fix pounds
ni2y be put in together; nor is it neceilary to aug-
ment the dofe of alum, tartar, or madder, of which
ingredients the liquor is compofed ; but if the vefiel
hold more than three hoglheads then the dofe of
thefe muft be augmented in proportion. The vat
I have mentioned held three, and was too fm.ill to
dye at one time a .fufticie:it quantity of wool. to
make a piece of cloth, viz. fifty or fixty pounds ;
f jr this purpofe it would be neceffary that the vat
C2 THE dyer's ASSISTANT.
fhculd contain at leaft fix hogOieads, and from this
a doubie advant:.ge would ai fe. x. All the wool
Will be dyed in three or four hours> whereas dyin^^
it at twice, it takes eight or ten hours. 2. At
t'iC end of three hours, in which time the wool
vould be dyed, taken out, and the green taken cfF,
the vat being yet very hot; after raking and letting
her reft a couple of hours, the fame wool might be
returned into her, which would heighten the colour
very much ; for all wool that has been dyed, aired,
and' the green taken cfT, always takes a finer colour
thjn new or white wool, which might remain
iwer.ty hours in the vat.
Great care mufl be tsken to air and take off the
preen of the dyed parcels of wool that are taken
cut cf tlv€ vat haftily, that the air may ftiike them
eqaa'ly, without which the blue colour will not be
u'ifcrm thrcughcut the wool.
There are manu'aciurtrs who fay that cloths,
w)-cfe wool has received this ground cf blue with
urine, cannot be perftQly fcoured at the fulling
rr.ill, even at twice; others vouch the contrary,
2:-d'l am of opinion the laft fpeak the truth ; yet,
it the fiifl are right, it might be fufpecled tl.at the
a imal oil of the urine becoming r-finous by dry-
i:r2 on the wool, or by uniting with th.e oil with
v.hivh the wool is moifttned ; for its other prepara-
tions mere ftrongly refift the fuller's earth and foap,
than a fimple oiF by expreflion. To remedy this,
the wool ought to be well wafhed in a running
water after it is dved, twifted, aired, the green taken
off and cooled. 'Be it as it may, the woad vat will
aiv'avs be preferred in the great dye-houfes to thole
kii.d's of indigo vats made with urine or otherwife ;
a- d for this'^reafon, that with a good woad vat,
ar^d an ingenious woad man, much more work is
dtfpatched than with all the other blue vats.
'^ 1 have
THE DYERS ASSISTANT. 53
I have defcribed the indigo vats in this treatife,
not with a defign to introduce them in the hrg,e
manufat^lories, but to procure- eafy means to the
Dyers in fmall, and fmall manufadtories, to whom I
wirti this work, may be of as much advantage as to
the others. I fhall t'nerefore here defcribe a cold
vat, which may be ufed with advantage by thole
who dye fmall ftuffs, in whofe compofition thread
and cotton enter. The colour is lafting, but ca:.-
not be made ufe of for wool.
C H A P. VI.
OF THE COLD INDIGO VAT WIHOUT URINE.
Ir is cuftomary nt Rouen, and in fome other
cities of France, to dye in a cold indigo vat,
different from that defcribed in the foregoing chap-
ter, and more covenicnt, as flia comes to work.
fooner, and has no bad fmell. She is prepared
after the following manner:
Diffjlve three pounds of indigo powdered fine-
ly, in a glazed earthen pot, with three pints o£
ftrong foap- boiler's lees, which is a ftrong Ice of
foda and quick lime. The indigo takes abouc
twenty- four hours diffolving, and when perfedlly
fo, remains fufpended in the liquor, thickens it,
and gives it the coafulence of an extradl. At the
fame time, three pounds of fifted flacked liir.e
muft be put into another vefTe], with fix quarts of
water, and boiled together for a quarter of an hour ;
when fettled, the clear is poured off by inclination.
Then three pounds of green copperas are to be dif-
folved in this clear litiie- water, and the whole let
to reft till the next day. Three hundred quarts < f
water are then put in a large deal-vefifel (no other
C 3 wood
54 THE DYER S ASSISTANT.
wood but deal will do, for it would dull and blacken
the dye, efpecially if if was oak.) The two folu-
tions which were maie the day before are put in,
the vat, is well raked, and AiiFered to reft. 1 have
leen her come to colour in two hours after, but
this never tails to happen the next day at farihert.
She makes a ereat deal of flurry, and the liquor
becomes ur" a tine green colour, but a little more
orv the yellow than the green of the common vat.
When this vat begins to fpend herfcif, Hie is to
be qu ckened without putting in frefh indigo, by
making a fmall liquor with two pounds cf green
copperas, diiTolved in a fulBcient quantity of lime-
water; but when the indigo has fpent all its colour,
(he ir.uft t;e re-charged by putting in frelh, dilTolved
in fucli a iee as has been defcribed.
IVater af Old Iron.
Some Dyers put into this vat a little water of
old iron, it is a mixture of vinegar and water, in
which fome old iron nails have been put to ruit.
'J hey lay thi< makes the colour more hiling, but I
have experienced, that it is fufHciently fo without
this, and ss good as ah the other blues, of wliich
I havf: bttore given the prqjaration.
I fet feveral fmali vats ; t ofe that required to
be licaied were put in a bath or fand heat, in fmall
eiafs bodies j and thrfe that are worked cold were
left v;ithout doing any thing to them. 1 hefe laft
are eafy, being fuJiicient to diminilh the quantity
of liquor, and of all the ciher ingredients, in pro-
p.rrion to the vefTei that is to be fet, and it is ai-
xnoft impofiihle to rail.
As to that which 1 firft defcribed, which is fet
hot, as it is fomewhat more difficult, and that fe-
veral mi^ht be willing to try the e'xperiment, which
in
THE dyer's assistant. 55
in itfelf is curious, and neither requires expence
ror apparatus to perform in fmall, 1 fliaH give the
procefs of one which fuccceded perfectly, and in
which 1 had delignedly put a greater quantity of
indigo than ufuallyis done in the common propor-
tion.
I boiled two quarts of water Vv'ith two fcruples
of madder and tour ounces of pearl-afhes ; after
boiling a quarter of an hour, I !>ul it into a body,
which held about four quarts, and had been pre-
vioully heata^i with warsn water,- atul in wliich I
had put a quarter of a handful of bran. The
whole was well ftirred with a deal fpatula, the glafs
body put on a very gentle fand-heat, which only
kept it warm, and pretty near the fame degree of
heat that is required for the common indigo vat.
The fire was kept all night, and the ne.xt day
under the fand-heat, without any feniible change
happening; it was only ftirred twice a-day. The
next clay fome flurry began to rife, and a copper-
Coloured fkin formed on the furface, and tlie liquor
was of a green-brown ; it was then filled up with
a liquor made of a quart of water, two ounces
of pearl-aflies, and a little bran. I mixed the
whole together, ther. let it reft. It c^mie perfedHy
well to colour, and the next day I dyed feveral
middling pieces of ftuiTs and wool. Thefe fmall vef-
fels may be re-heated and charged again as cafily
as a large one.
1 think i have nothing more to fay concerning
-the method of fetting to woik all thefe kinds of
blue vats ; yet I am perfuaded that there are feveral
other means pradifed in different places, and that
it is even eafy to contrive new ones ; liowevcr, I
can affirm that all thofe which ] have defcribed are
very fure, and th^t- they have all been worked
feveral times with tlie fame fuccefs.
C4. CHAP.
56 THE dyer's assistant,
CHAP. vn.
OF THE METHOD OF DVING BLUf.
'HEN the vat is once prepared and come
to work, the dying of wool or ftufFs is
eafy. Wet ihem we!) in clear warin water, wring-
iiig and dipping them in the vat, and keeping them
in more or iefs time, according as the colour is re-
t;uTed in fliade. From time to time the fluff is
aired, tiiat is, taken out of the vat and wrung, fo
that the liquor may fall back into the vat, and ex-
pofed a little to the air, which takes off the green
in one or two minutes ; tor let what vat foever be
ufed, the fluff is always green at its coming our,
and only takes the blue colour in pr >portion as the
air adls upon it. Jt is al'b very necciliry to let the
green go off' before it is returned into the liquor to
receive a fecond (hade, as being then better able to
judge of its colour, and knov/ if it is requifite to
give what is c.iUed one or feveral returnings.
It is an ancient cuHom among Dyers to reckon
thirteen ftiades of blue from the deepeft to the
Jight(ff. Although their denominations be fome-
what arbitrary, and that it is impoiTible exactly to
iix the juft pafTi^ge from Oi.e to the other, I fliail
r.otwlthllandlng give tlie names. They are as fol-
low, beginning with the lighted:: miik-blue, pearl-
blue, pale blue, fijt-blte, middling- blue, (ky blue,
queen's blue, turkilh-blue, watchet-blue, g?.ner-
blue, mszare-n-blue, deep-bine, and very deep blue,
'i hefe diftiniftions are not equally received by
all Dyers, nor in all provinces, but the mcft part
are known ; and it is the only method that can be
taken to give an idea of the fame colour, whgfe
only difference is in being more or iefs deep.
Ir
THE dyer's assistant. 57
It Is esfy to make deep blues. I have already
faid, that to effed this, the wool or fluffs are
to be returned feveral times into the vat j but it is
not (o in refpe£l to light blues ; for when the vat is
rightly co ne to work, the wool can feldom be left
in fliort time enough, but that it takes more than
the fhade required. It often happens when a cer-
tain quantity of wool is to be dipped, and that it
cannot ^11 be put in at the fame time, that what
goes in at {v(i is deeper than the other. There
are fome Dyers who, to obviate this inconveniency
in making very light blues, which they call milk
and water, take fome of the liquor of the indigo
vat, and dilute it in a very great quantity of luke-
warm water ; but this method is a bad one, for tha
wool dye-i in this mixture has not near fo lading a
colour as that dyed in the vat; as the altering iii-
gredients which are put into the vat with the in-
digo, ferves as much to difpofe the pores oi" tiie
fubje6V which is dipped in, as to the opening of the
colouring facula which is to dye it, their con-
courfe being necefTary for the adheflon.of the co-
lour. The befl method of making thefe very
light blues, is to pafs them either ina woad or in-
digo vat, out of which the colour has been work-
ed, and begins to cool. Fhe woad vat is Aill
preferable to thatof the indigo, as it does not dye
fo foon.
The blues made in vats that have been workel
are duller than the others ; but they nay be pretty
fenlibly roufed by pafTing the wool or fluffs in boil-
ing water. This prcidice is even neceflary to the
perfeition of all blueMh^des; by this the colour is
not only made brighter, but alfo rendered more
fecure, by taking off all that is not well incorpo-
rated with the wool ; it alfo prevents its fpoiting
the hands or linen, which commonly happens, and
C 5 the
5? THE dyer's assistant.
the Dyers, to gain time, negle6l this precaution.
After the wool is taken out of the warm water, it
is necelBry to walh it again in the river, or at leaft
in a furiicient quantity of water for the earring off
all the fuperfiuous loofe dye.
The bell method to render the blue dye trlghter,
is by tiling them with a thin hquor of melted foap,
and arterwards clcanfmg them from the foap by
warm water, and, if convenient, by rinfing them
in an old cochineal liquor. This meihod is to be
Tsken with deep blues ; but if the fame was taken
with very hght blues, the)^ v/ould lofe their bright
blue luftre, and incline to grey.
1 hope to have removed all difficulties on the
preparation cf blue, and in the method of dying it.
Some Dyers, for tliC fake of gain, fpaie the woad
and indigo,- and ufe for blue, orchei or logAOcd,
and bra-^il jthis ought to be e::prefs!y forbid, though
this adulterfated blue is often brighter than a laP.ing
and legitimate blue. 1 fha'l take notice of this in
the chapters treating; on the lelVer dye.
1 iiijli now explain the theory of the invllibis
change cf the blue dye. This colour, which I
Ihall here only confider in relation to its ufe in the
dying of ftufFs cf what kind foever, has hitherio
been exrraded cniy from the vegetable world, and
it does not appear that we can hope to ufe in tliis
art the blues the psinters employ : fuch are the
Pruflian blue, which holds of tiie animal and mi-
neral kind*; the azure, which is a vitrihed mi-
neral fublhnce ; the ultrattiarine, which is pre-
pared from a hard itonej the earths that have_a
blue colour, &c. Thefe, matters cannot, without
lofing their colour in whole or in parr, be reduced
into
* T74?, Monf. Macquer, of the Royal Academy of Sc'e.-irtr*
four-« the means of uli ig the PruflTian falae to rfye filk and c!oth»
;". i bl'at wholj brightnei'i /ccsirid nl :hc blues hitherto kncvo.
THE dyer's ASSISTAN'T. ^
into atorrs fufficiently minute, fo as to be fufpended
in the faline liquid, v;hich mud penetrate the fibres
of the aniina! and vegetable fubflances of which
fluffs are mannfa61:ured ; for under this name linea
and cotton cloths muft be comprehended, as well
as thofe wove of fiik and woul.
Hitherto we know but of two plants that yield
blue after their preparation : the one is viie iiatis or
glauflum, which is called pafccl in Languedoc, and
woad in Normandy. Their preparation confifts
in a fermentation continued even to the putrefac-
.tion of all the parts of the plar.t, the root excepted ;
and ccnfequently in the unfolding of al! their prin-
ciples into a new combination, and freih order of
iheie faine principles, from whence follows an
union of infinite tine particles, which, applied to
any ibbjefl whatever, reflects the light on thera
very difrerent from what it would be, if thcfe lame
particles were fliil joined to thofe which the fer-
jvieatation has feparatcd.
The other plant is the anil, whicli is cuklvpted
in the £all and Well Indies, out of .which they
prepare that fecula that is fent to Eijrope under the
rinsne of incHgo. In the preparation of this plant
the Indians and Americans, more induilrious than
ouriflves, liave found out the art of feparating only
the colouring paits of the plant frotn the ufelefs
ones ; and the French and Spanifh colonies have
imitated them, and thereby made a confiderable in-
crer.fe of commerce.
That the indieo, fuch as is imported from Ame-
rica, fhouid' depofit on the wool or fluffs the co-
louring parts required >;v: the Dyer, it is infuied fc-
veral v;ays, the procffles of which we have already
• given. They may be reduced to tliree ; the coJd
indigo vat may ferve for thread and cotton ; thciic
that are made ufc of hot, are fit for fluffs of any
.kind whatever. C 6
6o THE dyer's assistant.
In the cold vat, the indigo is mixed with pearl-
a(hes, coppera-i cr green vitriol, lime, madder, snd
bran. The hot vats are either prepared with water
or urine j it with water, pearl- aihes, and a littie
madder muft be added ; if with urine, alum and
tartar muft be joined to the indigo. Both of thefe
vats, principally intended for wool, require a rro-
derate degree of heat, but at the fame time ftrong
enough for the wool to take a hfting dye, 1 mean
fuch £3 will withftand the deftroying a£\ion of the
air and fjn, the proof rf dyes.
I l^^ve prepared, as I faid before, thefe three vats
in fmall, in cylindrical glafs veflels, expofed to the
light, in order to fee what psfied before the infufion
came to a colour* thst is, whether it was green
beneath tl.e f!urry at the furface, which is a fign of
inttrnal fermentation. I have faid that tlie green
co.cur of the liqaor is a condition abfolutely eflen-
tia!, and without which^ the colour the fluff would
ttkt would not be a gocd dye, and would ahr^oft
entirely difappcar on the leaft proofs.
I fhall now give a dcfcription of the cold indigD
vat in fmall, for the changes are much better feen
in her, and for this reafon, that what happens in
the two others is not very eflcntially different. It
is proper to take notice, that whai 1 friall call par:^
in this Obfervation of Experiments, is a mcafure
of the weight of four drachms, of all matter either
liquid cr folid, and that it will be this quantity that
muft be fuppcfed, each time that I ufe that word
in the detail cf thei'e experiments.
I put three hvmdred parts of water into a veffe!,
containing five hundred and twelve, cr eight quarts,
in which I dilfo'ved fix parts of copperas, which
gave the liquor a yellow dye. Six parts of pot-
aflies were alio difiblved by themfelves in thirty-fix
pans of water. The folution made, I digefted in
it
THE dyer's assistant. 6 I
It fix parts, or three ounces, of inoigo of St. Do-
mingo well ground ; it was left over a very gentle
fire three hours. The inciigo fwelled, and t^-.klng
up a larger fpace, rofe from the bottom of this al-
kaline liquor, with which it formed a kind of thick
fyrup, which was blue. This was a proof that the
indigo was only divided, but not dilToIved i for had
its folution been perfefl, that thick liquor would
have been green ioftead of blue ; for all liquor that
has been tinged blue by a vegetable of any kind,
grows green on the admixion of an alkaline fair,
either concrete or in a liquid form, whether it be a
fixed or volatile.
From hence the reafon is difccvered why indigo
does not dye a fluff of a lalVing blue when its li-
quor is not green ; for its folution not being com-
plete, the alkali cannot z6i upon thefe firft ele-
trentary panicles ; as for example, it a6ts on the
tinifiure ot violets, which is a perfect folution of
the colouring parts of thofe flowers, which it turns
green in an inftant, and on the firft contact.
I poured this thick blue liquor into the folution
of vitriol, and after well (baking the mixture, I
added fix parts of lime that had been flacked in the
air; it was cold weather when this experiment was
made ; the thermometer was at two degrees undtr
the freezing point, v/hich was the caufe that this
was near four days coming to a colour, and the
fermentation, which mufl naturally enfue in all
vitriolic liquor, where an alkaline fait has been put
in, fuch as pot-afhes, and an alkaline earth, was
carried on with fo much flownefs that very little
fcum appeared on the furface of the liquor. In a
hot feafon, and by making ufe of lime newly cal-
cined, thefe kind of vats are fometimes fit to dye
in four hours.
£acb
62 THE DY£R*S ASSISTANT.
Each time I ftirred the, mixture with a fparula, I
obferved tliat the iron of the vitriol or copperas was
the tirft thst precipitated to the bottom of th;-vi{re!>
and thit the alkaht.e fait had precipitated it, to join
itfeir to the acid. TliUS in this proctfs of the cold
indigo vat, a rartsr of vitriol after the onanner of
Tachenius is ff.nxied; wh.erea'j by ihecoiTiinon me-
thod of preparing this neutral fait, the acid of
vitriol is poured on a true alkalii e fait, fach as fait
of tartar or pot-allics. This again is a circuni-
ftance that leads infer.fibly to the theory of tlie
good dye. 1 deSre the reader to take notice of
this, as ir will occur in t! e fequel of this obferva-
tiou, as we]) as in other chapters.
'Ihc earthy, parts of the iixe precipitate next
after the iron -, they are eafi'v difiinauifned by the
whitenefs, which aife-yct difficult to diltinguifli
v^heri the colouring parts cf the indigo are fuffi-
cier.tly ioo'.e.ied. in Ihort, under this wl'.ite ecrth
■ the lecu.a of the indigo cepofits itfelf, and by de-
grees rarilie; in fuch a n'-anner, tl.at this fubftance,
which the firfl d2y was only the eighth of an inch
above the precipitated lirre, rofe infennbly within
half an inch of the furface of the liquor, and the
third day grew fo opaque and muddy, that nothing
fuiiher could be difiinguifhcd.
Th.is rarcf.:(5t!on of the inJiio, flow in winter,
quick in fummer, and which may be accelerated m
winter by heating the liquor to hi teen or tixteea
degrees, is a proof that a real fermentation hap-
pens in the mixture, -which opens ti.e little iump3
of indigo, and divides them into particles of an ex-
treme finenels; then their furfaces being multiplied
almoft ad injinitum, they are fo much the more
equally diftributed in the iiquor, which depodts
them equally on the fubje^b d'pp-d in to i^ke liis
dye.
THE dyer's assistant. 6}
If fermentation comes on hafti'y, or in a feW
hours, whether on account ot -the heat of the air,
or by the help of a fmall fire, a great quantity of
flurry appears j it is blue, and its reflection they
have alfo named coppery, becaufe the colours of
the rainbow appear in it, and the red and yellow
here predominate ; however this phsenomenon is
not peculiar to indigo, fince the fame reflection is
perceived in all mixtures that are in actual fermenta-
tion, and particularly in thofe which contain fat
particles blen>-^ed wit!! falts, urine, foot, and feveral
other bodies put into fermentation, (how on their
furface the fa;jie variegated colours.
The flurry of the indigo vat appears blue, be-
caufe expofed t J tf.e external air ; but if a fmail
portion ot the liquor which is under it be taktn up
with a fpoon, it appears more or lefs neen in pro-
portion as it is filled with colouring particks. In
the courfe of this obfervation, 1 (hall fnow the rea-
fon of this -difrerence, or, at iealf, a probable ex-
plication of this change of blue, which, as I have
faid before, is abfolufely neceflfary for fucceeding'ia
the procefs dcfcrifced.
VVhen the vat is in this flate, it has already ^eea
faid that cotton, thread, cloths wove from then, -Sec.
may be dyed in her, and the colours whichi they
take are of the good dye; that is, this cotton and
thread will nnaintain then), even after remaining a
fuitable time in a folution of white foap, acfualiy
boiling. This is the proof given theai prrterafele
to any othei^, becaufe the linen and cotton clollis
"Vinuft be wafhed with foap when dirty.
Though the indigo liquor which is in this ftate
can make a lafting dye without the addition of any
other ingredient ; the Dyers who ufe this cold va£
add, as in the other hot vats, a deccdlion of mad-
, (Ser and bran inxrommon water run through a fieve j
" this
64 THE dyer's assistant.
this is what they call bever. They put madder to
infure, as they fay, tlie colour of the indigo, be-
caufe this root affords a cole ur \o adhefive that it
{lands all proofs ; they put the bran to foften the
water, which they imagine generally to contain
foTie portion of an acid fat, which, according to
their opinion, muil be deadened.
This was the opinion of the French Dyers
againft indigo in the days of Monfieur Colbert ; and
as this minifter could not fpare lime to fee the ex-
periments performed in his prefence, on ihe foun-
dation of this report, he forbad indigo to be ufed
alone. But fince the Government has been con-
vinced, by new ex()€riments naae by the late Mr.
Dufay, that the {lability of t'.e blue dye of this in-
gredient was fuch as could be defired ; the new re-
gulation of 1^37 licenfes the Dyers to ufe it alone,
or mixed with woad ; fo thst if they continue to
ufe the madder, it is rather becaufe this root giving
a pretty deep xt&^ and this red mixing with the
blue of the indigo, gives it a tint which approaches-
the viclet, and a!fo a fine hue.
As to the bran, its ufe is not to deaden the
pretended acid fairs, but to difperfe throughout a
quantity of fizey matter j for the fmall portion of
flour which remains in it, dividing itfelf into the
liquor, mu{l diminifli in fome nieafure its fluidity,,
and confequently prevent the colouring particles
which are fufpcnded m it, being precipitated too
quick, in a liquor which had not acquired a certain
degree of tiiickne^s.
Notwithflandmg this diflributed throughout the
liquor, as well from the bran as the madder, which
alfo affords fomething glutinous, the colouring par-
ticles will fubfide if the liquor remait.s fome days
without being flirred ; then the top of the liquor
gives but a feeble tint to the body dipped in, and if
a flrong
THE DVER'S assistant. 65
a ftrong one is wanted, the mixture muft be raked,
and left to reft an hour or two, that the iron in
the copperas, and the grofs parts of the lime may
fall to the bottom, which oiherwife would mix with
the true colouriiig panicles, and prejudice their
dye, by (^epofiting on the body to be dyed a fub-
ftance that would have but little adhefion, which
in drying would become friable, and of which each
minute part would occupy a fpace, where the true
colouring particle could neither introduce nor de-
pofit itfelf by an imniediate contacSt on the fubjc(5l.
Not to deviate from the method followed by
the Dyers, I boiled one part of grape-madder and
one of bran, in 174 parts of water : this proportion
of water is not neceflary, more or lefs may be put,
but 1 wanted to fill my vefTel, which contained 512
parts. I palTed this bever through a cloth and
fqueezed it, putting this liquor, ftiil hot, and which
was of a blood-red, into the imligo liquor, obferv-
ing the neceflary precautions to prevent the break-
ing of the glafs vefl'ej* The whole was well
ftirred, and two hours after the liquor was green,
and confequenlly fit for dying. It dyed cotton of
a lafting blue, fomewhat brighter than it was be-
fore the addition of the red of madder.
I Ihall now endeavour to find out the particular
caufe of the folidity of this colour; perhaps it may
be the general caufe of the tenacity of all the reft ;
for it appears already, from the experiments above
related, that this tenacity depeitds on the choice of
falts, which are added to the decoctions of the co-
louring ingredients, when the fame ingredients
contain none in themfelvcs. It from the confe-
quences which fliall refult from the choice of thefe
falts, of their nature, and of their properties, it
be admitted (and it cannot be fairly denied) that
they afford more or lefs tenuity in the homogeneous
colouring
66 THE dyer's assistant.
colcuHn^ parts of the dying ingredients, the whole
theoiy of this art will be difcovered, without hav-
ing recourfe to uncertain or contefted caufes.
One may eafiiy conceive that the falts added to
the indigo vats not only open the natural pores of
the luhje£t to be dyed, but alfo unfold the colcur-
ing atoms of the indigo.
In the other preparations'of dyes (ro be men-
tioned hereafter) the v.'ool'.en fluffs are boiled in a
folution of fairs, v.hich the Dye?;; call preparation.
In this preparation tart?.r ani nhim are generally
ufed. In fotne liours the fluff is taken out, iTight-
ly fqueeztd, and kept da"np f rfome days in a cool
place, that the faline liquor wLiich remains in it may
•ftill ad, and prepare it for the reception of the dye
of thefe ifigredients, in the decoction of which it
is plunged to boil again. Without this prepara-
tion, experience fliuws that the colours'will not be
lafting, at leaft for -he greateft part -, for it mufl:
be owr.ed that there are fome ingredients which
yield laAing colours, though the (haff has not pre-
viouily undergone this preparation, becaufe the in-
gredient contains in itlelf thefe falts.
It IS therefore necefTjty, that the natural pores
of the fibres of the wool thould be erihuged and
cleanfed by the help of thofe falts, which are aU.
ways fomewhat corroding, and perhaps il'.ey open
new pores for the reception of tiie colouring atoms
contained in the ingredients. The boiling of this
liquor drives in the atoms by repeated ftrokeSi
The pores already enlarged by thefe falts, are fur-
ther dilated by the best of the boiling water ; they
are afterwards contrafled by the external cold when
the dyed matter is taken cut of the copper, when
it is expofed to the external air, or when it is
plunged i.nto cold water. Thus the colouring atom
is taken in, and detained in the pores or fifiures of
* the
THE dyer's assistant. 67
the dyed body, by thefpringinefs of its fibres, which
have contradted and reftored themfelves tb their
firft ftate, and have re-aflunned their primary ftifF-
nefs upon being expofed to the cold.
If, befides this fpring of the fides, of the pore,
it be fuppofed that thefe fides have been plaillered
inwardly with a layer of the faline liquor, it will
appear plainly that this is another means employ-
ed by art to detain the colouring atom ; for this
atom, having entered into the pore, while the
faline cement of the fides was yet in a ftate of fo-
lution, and confequently fluid ; and this cement
being afterwards congealed by the external cold,
the atom is thereby detained ; by the fpring which
has been mentioned, and by this faline cement,
which by cryflalization is become hard, forms a
kind of maftic which is not eafily removed.
If the coloured atom, (which is as fmall as the
little eminence that appears at the entrance of the
pore, and v>'ithout which the fubjedl would not ap-
pear dyed) be fufiiciently protuberant to be expofed
to more powerful fhocks than the refiftance of the
fides of the cement that retains it, then the dye re-
fuliing from all thefe atoms fufficiently retained,
will be extremely lafiing, and in the rank of the good
dye, provided the faline coat can neither be car-
ried off by cold water, fuch as rain, nor calcined
or reduced to powder by the rays of -the fun; for
every lafting colour, or colour belonging to the
good dye, mufi withfiand thefe two proofs. No
other can reafonably be expedled in ftuffs defigned
for apparel or furniture.
I know but of two falts in chymifiry, which-,
being once cryfializ.-d, can be moifiened with
cold water without diflolving; and there are few
befides thefe that can remain fcveral days expofed
to the fun, without being reduced to a flour or
white
68 THE dyer's assistant.
white powder. Thefe are tartar, either as taken
from the wine veffels, or purified, and tartar of
vitriol. The tartar of vitriol may be made by mix-
ing a fait already alkalized, (or that may become
fuch when the acid is drove out with a fait whole
acid is vitriolic, as copperas and alum); this is eafily
efFecled \i it be weaker than the acid of vitriol, and
fuch is the acid of all effential falts extracted from
vegetables.
In the procels of the blue vat, whicli I tried in
fmall, to difcover the caufe of its efFe£ls, cop-
peras and pot-a(h, (which is a prepared alkalij are
mixed together; as foon as rheie fol«tions are
united, the alkali precipitates the iron of the cop-
peras in form of powder almofl black ; the vitriolic
acid of the copperas, divcftevi of its metallic bafis
by its union with the alkali, forms a neutral fait,
called tartar of vitriol^ as when matJe with the fait
of tarrtar and the vitriolic acid already feparatei
from its bafis; for all alkalis, from whatever ve-
getables they are extracted, are perfecflly alike, pro-
vided they have been equally calcined.
More difficulties will occur with regard to the
water for the preparation of other colours, fuch as
reds and yellows. It may be denied that a tartar
of vitriol can refult from the mixture of alum and
crude tartar boiled -together ; yet the theory is the
fame, and I do not know that it can be otherwife
conceived. The alum is a fair, confifling of the
vitriolic acid united with an earth ; by adding an
alkali, the earth is immediately precipitated, and
the tartar foon forms ; but inftead of this alkaline
fait, alum is boiled with the crude tartar, which is
the effential fait of v;ine, that is, a fait compofed
of the vinous acid, (which is more volatile than the
vitriolic) and of oil, both concentrated in a fmall
portion of e^rth.
Thi«
TiiE dyer's assistant. 6iJ
This fait, as is kn iwn to .chymi(!«, becomes
alkali by diverting it of its acid. Thus when the
alum and crude tnrtar are boiled together, befides
the imprelTion which the fibres of the fluff to be
dyed receive from the firft of thefe falts, which is
fomewhat corrofive, the tartar is alfo purified, and
by tlie addition of the earth, which is feparated
from the alum, (and wl^ich has near the fame ef-
fe<5V upon the tartar, as the earth of Mervie/fy
which is ufed at Montpellier in manufaduring
cream of tartar) it becomes clear and tranfparent.
It may very probably happen, that the vitriolic acid
of the alum, driving out a part of the vegetable
acid of the tartar, a tartar of vitriol may be formed
as hard and tranfparent as the cryflal of tartar.
Admitting one or other of thefe fuppofitions, con-
fequently there is in the open pores of the wool a
faline cement which cryftalizes as foon as the ftufF
which comes out of the dye is expofed to the cold
air, which cannot be calcined by heat, nor is fo-
luble in cold water. I could not avoid making this
digreffion.
This theory is common to the indigo vat, where
urine is ufed inllead of water ; alum and crude
tartar in the place of vitriol and pot-a(hes. This
urine vat gives a lafling dye only when ufed hot,
and then the wool mufl remain in an hour or two
to take the dye equally. As foon as the vat is cold,
{he f^rikes no more dye; the reafon of this would
be difficult to difcover in an opaque metal vat, but
in a glafs vciTel it is eafily ken.
1 let this little glafs proof vat cool, and all the
green colour, which was fufpended in it while hot,
precipitated little by little to the bottom ; tor then
the tartar crjflalizing itfelf, and reuniting in
heavier mafTes than its moculas were during the
heat of the liquor, and its folution, it funk to the
bottom
70 THE DYERS ASSISTANT.
bottom of the veffel, and carried with it the co-
louring particles.
When I reftored this liquor to its former degree
of heat, after fhaking it, and letting it fettle a
while, I dipped a piece of cloth, which I took out
one hour after, with as lafting a dye as the firft ;
fo that when this vat is ufcd and fit to work, the
tartar is to "be kept in a ftate of folution, which
cannot be done but by a pretty ftrong heat. The
alkali of the urine greens it, the alum prepares the
fibres of the wool, and the cryftal of tartar fecures
the dye by cementing the colouring atoms depofited
in the pores.
There ftill remains a difficulty with refpedtto the
indigo vat, in which, neither vitriol, alum, or
tartar are ufed, but only pearl-aflies in equal quan-
tity with the indigo, and which is pretty brifkly
lieated to dye the wool and ftuflPs. But before I
enter into the caufe of the folidity of its dye, which
is equal to that of the other blue vats where the
other falts already mentioned enter, I mufl examine
into the nature of pearl-afhes, which are the lees
of wine dried and calcined : it is therefore an alka-
line fait,, of the nature of fait of tarcar, but lefs
pure, as proceeding from the heavieft parts of the
dregs of wine, and confequently the moft earthy ;
befides, the. alkali of the pearl-aflies is never as
homogeneous as ihe alkaline fait of tartar well cal-
cined, and there are fcarcely any pearl-aflies not
purified, from wi.ich a confiderable quantity of tar-
tar of vitriol may not be obtained : it is even pro-
bable by an experiment which I have related, that
it might at length be entirely converted into this
neutral fait; the fame may be faid of pot-afhes,
and of all other alkaline falts, whQle bafis are not
that of the marine fait.
2 The
THE DYER S ASSISTANT. 7 1
The want of this homogeneous quality, is the
caufe that pearl-aOies never fall entirely into deli-
quium in the air; therefore iince experience fliows
that there is a tartar of vitriol already fornrted in the
pearl-alhcs, it is evident that this indigo vat, which
does not give a good dye until the liquor has been
fo bri&iy heated as not to fufF.f the hand without
fcalding, will difl";lve the fmall portion of tartar of
•vitriol thnt is contained in it, and confequently
this fait will introduce itfelf into the pores of the
wool to cleanfe and cement them, and will coagu-
late therein on the wool being taken out of the li-
quor, and expofed to the air to cool.
I mufl: now give the reafon why the indigo vat
is green under the firft furface of the liquor; why
this liquor muft be green that the blue dye may l^e
lading, and why the fluff that is taken green out
of the liquor becomes blue as foon as it is aired.
All thefe conditions being of necefiity common to
all indigo vats either cold or hot, the fame explica-
tion will ferve for them all.
X. The flurry which rifes on the furface of the
indigo liquor when it is fit to dye is blue, and the
under part of this fcum is green ; thefe two cir-
cumflances prove the perfedt folution of the indigo,
and that the alkaline ialt is united to its colouring
atoms fince it greens them, for without they v/ould
remain, blue.
2. Thefe circumftances prove that there is alfo
in the indigo a volatile urinous alkali, which the
fixt alkali of the pct-afh, or the alkaline earth of
the lime difplays, and which evaporates very fhortly
after the expofition of this fcum to the air. The
exiftence of this urinous volatile appears plainly
by the fmell of the vat during the fermentation ;
when ftirred, or when heated, the fmell is (harp,
and refembles that of ftinking meatroafted.
3. In
72 THE DYER S ASSISTANT.
3. In the preparation of the anil, in order to
feparate the fecula, a fermentation is continued
to putrefadlion. All rotten plants are urinous.
This volatile urinous quality is produced by the
intimate union of fahs with the vegetable oil, or
is owing to a prodigious quantity of infers falling
on all tides of fermenting planks, and attra<5led by
the fmell exhaling from them, where they live,
multiply, and die in them, and confequently depoilt
a number of dead bodies ; therefore to this vege-
table fubftance an animal one is united, whofe fait
is always an urinous volatile. This fame urinous
quality exifts alfo in the woad, which is prepared
after the fame manner, viz. by fermentation and
putrefaction, and which will be fun her explained
in the abridged narrative of its preparation.
"4. And laftly, if indigo or woad be diftiUed in
a retort, either alone, or (which is much better)
with fome fixed faline or earthy alkali added to ir,
a liquor will be obtained, which, by all chymical
effays, produces the fame effeds as volatile fpirits
of urine.
Why does not this volatile urinous quality in
the indigo caufe it to appear green, fince it muft
be equally diftributed through all its parts ? And
why does indigo, being difTolved in plain boiling
water, tinge it t'ue and not green ? It is becaufe
this volatile urinous fait is not concreted ; that it
requires another body more a<S^ive than boiling
water to drive it out of the particles furrounding.
it ; and the folution of indigo is never perfecfted by
water alone ; whatever degree of heat is given, it
is only diluted, and not difTolved in it. Indeed this
dccovStion of indigo blues the ftuffs that are clipped,
but the blue is not equally laid on, and boiling
water almofl inflantly difcharges it. I fhall en-
deavour to anfwer this by an example drawn from
another fubjedf.
THE dyer's assistant. 73
Salt ammoniac, from which chymifts extrad the
moft penetrating volatile fpirit, has not that quick
urinous fmell by diflblving and boiling it in water ;
either lime, or fixed alkaline fait, muft be added'
to difengage the urinous volatile parts. In like
manner, the indigo requires fixed faline, or earthy
alkalis, to be exactly difcompofed, that its volatile
urinous fait may be djfcovered, and that its colour-
ing atoms may be reduced probably to their ele-
mentary minutenefs.
I nov,' come to the fecond quality required.
The liquor of the indigo vat muft be green, that
the dye may be lafling ; for the indigo w^ould not
be exactly diffolved, if the alkali did not adt upcn
it. Its folution not being as perfe"^ as it ou^ht to
be, its dye would be neither equal nor hfting'; but
as foon as the alkaline falls a6t upon it, they mufl
green it; for an alkali, mixed with the blue juice
or tindture of any plant or flower, immediately
turns it green, when equally diftributed on all its
colouring parts. But if by evaporation thefe fame
parts, coloured, or colouring, have re- united them-
felvies into hard and compa'a mafles, the alkali will
not change their colour till it has penetrated, di-
vided, and reduced them to their primary finenefs.
This is the cafe with indigo, whofe fecuia is the
dry infpiffatcd juice of the anil.
With refpcdi to the laft circumftance, which is
that the ftufF muft be green on coming cut of the
liquor, and become blue as foon as it is aired,
without which, the blue would not be of a good
dye, the following reafons may be given : it is taken
out green becaufe the liquor is green ; if it was not,
the alkaline fait put into the vat would not be
equally diftributed, or the indigo would not he ex-
aaiy dilToived. If the alkah w^s not eq>tJElly di-
ftributed, the liquor contained in the vat would net
D be
74 T^£ DY£R S ASSISTANT.
be equally faline : the bottom cf this liquor would
contain all the fait ; tie upper would be inlipid.
In this cafe, the ftuff dipped in would neither be
prepared to receive the dye, nor to retain it ; but
when it is taken out green at the end of a quarter
^f an hour's dipping, it is a proof that the ]iquor
wcs equal]}' faline, and equally loaded with colour-
ing atoms ; it is alfo a fign, that the alkaline falts
have infinuated themfelves into the pores of the
fibres of the fluff and enlarged them, as has been
obferved, and perhaps hive formed new ones. Now
there can be no doubt that an alkaline fait may
have this effe£l on a woollen ftufF, when it is evi-
deut that a very fharp alkaline ley burns and dif-
/o'ves almcfl in an inflant a flock of wool Or a
feather.
A procefs in dying called, by the French, fsvie
ie Icurre^ that is, the melting or dilTolving of flock
cr hair, is ftill a further example. The hair, which
is ufed and boiled in a folution of pearl-afhes in
urine, is fo perfedlly difTolved as not to leave the
leaft fibre remaining. Therefore if a lixivium,
ext:en>ejy fharp, entirely deftroys the wool, a ley
which fliall have but a quantity of alkaline fait fuf-
ficicTit to acl on the wool without defl^roying it,
wiii prepare the pores to receive and preferve the
cclc'c:ring aroms of the indigo.
The fluff is aired after being taken green out of the
vat, and after wringing it becomes blue. What is
done by airing ? it is cooled ; if it is the urinous
volatile detached from the indigo which gave it
this ereen colour, it evaporates, and the blue ap-
pears again ; if it is the fixed alkaline that caufes
this ereen, not only the greatefl part is carried off
by the ftrcng exprellion cf the fluff, but what re-
inains can have no more action on the colouring
parr, lecaufe the fmall atom cf tartar of vitriol,
whkb
THE dyer's assistant. -75
which contains a coloured atom ftill Icfs than itf^lf,
is cryftalized the iniknt of its expoiitlon to the
cold air, and contrading this farne colouriniT atom
by the help of the fpring at the fides of the oore, it
^ entirely preffes out the remainder of the' alkali,
which does not cryftalizeas a neutral fait.
The blue is roufed, that is, it becomes brighter
and finer by fcaking the <!yed fluff in war 7-! \vater,
tor then the colouring particles, which hsd only a
fuperticial adherence to the fibres of the wool, are
carried off. Soap is ufed as a proof of the laftino-
of the blue dye, and it miift ftand it, for the foap°
which IS only ufed in a Anall quantity in pronortioa
to the water, and whofe acHon on the dyed pat-
tern is fixed to five nr^inutes, is an al.kali, miti<rated
T?- ^%°!'' '''''"'^ """"^ ^'^ "PO" 3 neutraffalt.
n n difcharges the pattern of any part of its cnjour
It IS becaufe its parts were hut fupcrficially adher-
ing; bcfides, the little faline cryftal which is fet
m the pore, whofe ufe is to cement the colourin^^
atom, cannot be dillolved in fo (hort a time, fo as
to come out of the pore with the atom it retains
This treatife lays down the effay of a method
ot dying different from any hitherto offered I
appeal to ph.lmophers, who would think little of
a hmple narrative of procofles, if I did not at the
lame time give their theory. I fhall follow this
method in the other experiments on reds the
yellows, or other limple colours, as it is ablolutely
neccflary to have a knowledge of them hef..re en-
tenng on the compound, as thefe are generally but
colours laid on one after the other, and fcldom
mixe,: together in the fame liqu.vr or decoclion.
1 bus })av;ng once the knowledge of what pro-
n^nreeafiy knowx,, it the fecond coloir can take
place m the fpaces the firft have leftemptv ^vi:haut
dilplacins the firft. *^ '
^6 THE dyer's assistant.
This is the idea w!;ich I have formed to myfelf
of the arrangement of different colours laid on the
fame fluff, for it appears to me a matter of great
difficulty to conceive that the colouring atoms can
place themfelves tlie one on the other, and thus
form kinds of pyramids, each flill- preferving their
colour, fo that from a mixture of the whole a
compound colour fhall refult, and which, notwith-
flanding, fliall appear uniform, and as it were
homogeneous. To adopt this fyflem, we muft
fuppofe a tranfparency in thefe atoms, wliich it
v.'ould be difHcuIt to demonftrate ; and further,
that a yellow atom mufl place itfelf immediate on
a blue one, already fet in the pore of the fibre of a
fluff, and that it muft remain there flrongly bound,
fo that they muft touch each other with extreme
fmooth furfaces, and fo with every new colour laid
on.
It is not eafy to conceive all this, and it appears
more probable, that the fir(f colour has only taken
up the pores that it found open by the firfl prepa-
ration of the fibres of the fluff; that on the fide of
thefe pores there remains more ftill to be filled, or
at leaft fpaces not occupied, where new pores may
be opened to lodge tho new atoms of a fecond co-
lour, by the means of a fecond preparation of
water, compofed of corroding falts, which being
the fame as thofe of the firfl preparing liquor, will
not deflroy the firfl faline cryflals introduced into
the firfl pores.
What has been already faid with regard to the
indigo vat, may alfo ferve to explain the a(5lion of
the woad vat on wool and fluffs ; it is only fuppof-
fmg in the woad, that falts do naturally exifl, pret-
ty near of afiinity to thofe that are added to the in-
digo vat. It appears by the defcription given of
th£fe vats, that the woad vat is by much the moil
difficult
THE dyer's assistant, "Jf
difficult to conduct. I am convinced that tliefe dif-
ficulties might be remo'/ed, if an attempt was made
to prepare the ifatis as the anil is in the Weft In-
dies. 1 (hall therefore compare their difierent pre-
parations. I have taken the foilowins; narrative
from the memoirs of Mr. Aih'uc^s H'jioire
Naturelle du Langucdoc. Paris, Cavalitr J 737,
in 4to, p. 330 and 331.
'' Accordmg io the opinion of Dyers, woad
" only gives feeWe and languiihii^g colours ;
*' whereas thofe uf t!ie indigo ari: lively and bright.
*■*■ ITiis opinion I ciar.t is cooiovmable to reafun ;
" the indigo iy a fine fublle powder ; confrquently
*' capable to penetrate the fluffs eaUiy, and give
" them a (hining colour. The woad, on the con-
" trary, is only a grofs plant, loaded with many
" earthy parts, which flacken the adion and mo-
*' tion of the finer parts, and prevent theai from
*' acting efFedually.
" I know but one way to remove this inconve-
" niency, that is, to prepare the woad after the fame
" manner the indigo is prepared ; by this means,
*' the colours obtained from the woad would ac-
*' quire the lively and bright qualities of thofe pro-
" cured from the indieo, without diminilhing in
*' the leaft the excellency of the colours produced
** by the woad.
*' I have already made in fmall * experiments on
*' what 1 propofe, and thofe experiments have fuc-
" ceeded, not only in the preparation of the powder
" of woad, but alfo in the ufe of this powder for
"dying."
D3 It
* As fhis ingenious man has fucceeded in fmall experiments,
it is probable he would alfo in the laige ones; and then this plant
cafi y culcvated in England, wpuld well recorr pence the pains of
the hulbandman.
78 THE dyer's assistant.
It is Incumbent on thofe who have the public
good at heart, to caufe trials at large to be made,
and if they hav^ the faccefs 'that can reafonably be
expeded, it will be proper to encourage thofe who
cuhivate woad, to follow this new method of pre-
paring it, and offer premiums to enable ttiem to
fuilain the expeiices this new pra<Slice will engage
tliem in, uniil tl:e advantage they will reap from it
may be fufficient to determine them to follow it.
I fhall now prcpofe the means to fucceed in Mr.
Aftruc's experiments, and thefe means naturally
refult from confidering the method ufed in Lan-
guedoc lor the preparation of woad, and the inge-
nious metiiod by which they feparatc the fecula of
the anil in America. I have already given the
preparjtion ot this laft ; thofe who defire a fuller
tJC'Vnption may confult I'Hijloire des Antilles du
P. du Tcvtre & du P. Labat. The following
picpjration of the paHel, or garden woad, is thus
tltlcribcvi by lAx. Allruc.
The manufa^uring of Pojlel^ or Garden Woad in
France*
Peafants of Abbigevois diflingulfh two kinds of
woad feci ; the one violet colour, the other yel-
low : they prefer tlie former, becaufe the woad that
(hoots from it bears leaves that are fmooth and po-
lifhed, whereas thofe that fpring from the yellow
are hairy ; this fi!is them with earth and dufl,
which makes ih? woad prepared from them of a
wcrfe quality. This v/oad is called pafelbourg^ or
bourflaignc.
The v.oad at firft fhoots five or fix leaves out of
the ground, which fiand upright whilft green; they
are a foot \orM. and fix i' chs broad ; they begin
to ripen in June j Ihey aie known to be ripe by
their
THE dyer's assistant. 79
dieir falling down and growing yellow ; tliey are
then gathered, and the ground cleared froiii weeds,
which is carefully repeated each crop.
If there has been rain, a fecond crop is ob->
tained in July ; rain ar dry weather advances or
retards it eight days. I 'he third crop- is at the lat-
ter end of Auguft ; a fourtii the latter eivd of Sep-
tember ; and the fifth and lail about the tenth of
November. This lafl crop is the mcil confider-
able, the interval being longer. The plant at
this crop is cut at the root from Whence the leaves
fpring. This woad is not good, and the laft crop
is forbid by the regulations. The. woad is not to
be gathered in foggy or rainy weather, but in ferene
weather, when the fun has been out fome time.
At each crop the leaves are brought to the mill
to be ground, and reduced ta a fine pafle ; tliis is
to be done fpeedily, for the leaves when left in a
heap ferment, and foon rot with an intolerable
ftench. Theie mills are like the oil or bark- mills,
that is, a mill-fl:one turns round a perpendicular
pivot in a circular grove or trough, pretty deep, in
,which the woad is ground.
The leaves thus mafhed and reduced to a pafle,
are kept up in the galleries of the mil!, or in the
open air. After preffing the pafte well with the
hands and feet, it is beat down and made finooth
with a fiiovel. This is called the woad piled.
An outward cruft forms, which becomes blackifli;
when it cracks, great care muft be taken to clofe it
again. Little worms will generate in thefe crevices
and fpoil it. The pile is opened in a fortnight,
well worked between the hands, and the cruft well
mixed with theinfide; fometimes this cruft requires
to be beat with a mallet to knead it with the reft.
This pafte is then made into fmall loaves or
round balls, which, according to the regulations,
D 4. luuft
So THE dyer's assistant.
muft weigh a pound and a quarter. Thefe balls
are well prcfied in the making, anH are tb.en given
to another, who kneacs them again in a wooden
ci){h, lengthens them at both ends, mak-ng them
oval znd fc'-'t oth. Laftiy, they are given to a
third, who finifhes 'them in a leffer bowl difh, by
prefling and perfedily uniting them.
The parte] or woad thus prepared is called Paflel
tn Cccaigne\ whence arifes the provtrb. Pan de
Cicaigm ; which fignifies a rich couniry, bccaufe
this coui try * where the woad grows, enriched it-
feif forrr;erly by the ccrarDerce of this drug.
Thefe balis f are fpreid en hurdks, and expofcd
to the fun in 6ne weather j in bad weather they
are put at the top of the mill. The woad that has
been expofed fome hours to the fun, becomes black
on the ouiiide, whereas that which has been kept
within doors is generally yellowifli, particularly it
the Wcsther has bren rainy. The merchants pre-
fer ti^;e former ; this makes little diftcrence as to
its xiit; it is in general always yeilowifli, as the
pecfants mollly work it in rainy weather, when
they cannot attend their rural employments.
In fummer, thefe balls are commonly dry in fif-
teen or twenty daySj whereas in autumn thofe of
ihc ]3il crop are Ion? in drying.
The good balls v. lien broke are of a violet co-
lour within, and have an agreeable fmell ; wl.creas
thofe that arc of an earthy colour and a bad
Imell, are not good : this proceeds from the ga-
thering of the woad during the rain, when the
leaves were filled with earth. Their goodnefs is
alfo
* UAhigeuh & Laurag is.
+ There is a place in Indie, the name I fio not recollea, where
the anil is prepared after the manner of the woad, and the indigo
conr.«» frorti it in lumps, containing all the ufclefs parts of ihc
.plant. - It is very dificult to prepare a blue va: with it.
THE dyer's assistant. Si
alfo known by their .weight, being light when they
have taken too much air, or rotten by not having
been fufticientiy preft.
Poivder of Woad,
Of thefe balls well prepared, the powder of
woad is to be made ; for this purpofe a hundred
thoufand at leaft are required. A diftant uara or
a warehoufe niuft be procured, larger or finalier
according to the quantity intended to be made.
It mufl be paved with bricks and lined with the
fame, to the height of four or five feet ; the walls
would be better to be or ftone to that height, yet
often the walls are only coated with earth j this coat
breaking off and mixing with the woad is a great
prejudice to it. In this place the balls are reduced
to a grofs powder with large wooJen inulitts.
This pt/Wder is heaped up to the height of four
feet, referving a fpace to go round, and is moiften-
ed with water; that which is flnny*'is beft, pro-
vided it be clear J the woad thus moiftened, fer-
ments, heats, and emits a very thick ftinking
vapour.
it is f^irred every day for twelve days, flinging it
by fh.jvels full from one (ide to the other, and
moiflenmg it every ^day during that time; a'ter
which no more water is liung on, but only ftirred
every fecond day; then every third, fourth, and
filth; it is then heaped up m the middle of the
place, and looked at from time to time to air it in
D 5 cafe
* 1 can fee no reafon why (limy water, and yet to he r'ear, is -
prtlerrtci. it appears lo n.e rlui cltnr river waiei would be more
ffcurej with thik they would &void the iiu-«)nvenitnses that n;uft
atteo'l a ftahcing water, always filled with h'tl)j or of a muddy
wattr, which contains uukfa^rth, and which n;uft make the .
dje uneven.
82 THE dyer's assistant.
cale it (hculd heat. This is the paflel or garden
woad powder tA fcr fale to the Dyers.
Air. Aftruc, to prove that the fale of woad fcr-
fnerly enriched ihe higher Languedoc, quotes the fol-
lowing palTage from a book entitled Le Alarchand.
" Forrr.erly they tranfported from Toulouze to
BourJeaux, by the river Garonne, each year a
hundred thoufand bales of woad, v/hich on the fpot
are worth at leaft fifteen livres a bale, which
amounts to 1.500.000 livres ; -frooi whence pro-
ceeded the abundance of money and riches of that
country." CaHel in his Msmoirs de V Hijio'ire du
Languedoc^ in 1633, P- 49*
The comparing -of thefe two methods of pre-
paring the woad and indigo may be fufficient to a
perfon of underitandi.-.g, who mi^ht be appointed to
try, by experi.nents, the pofllbiiity of extracting a
fecula from the ifatis of Languedoc like that of the
anil. It is neither tlie Dyer or Manutaclurer that
ought be applied to for that purpofe ; both would
condemn the |;rrje6l as a novelty, and it would re-
quire many experiments, which in general they are
not accudomed to.
1 could wiih tliis experiment was tried in gre^t,
fo that at lealt fifty pounds of this fecula might be
get, that fevsral vats might be fet in cafe the firfl
fliuuld fail. Whoever does try it, fhould be very
careful to defcribe all the circumilances of the pro-
cefs. Perhaps it mia,ht not fucceed at the firfl
crop of the leaves of the "t^Oidi^ becaufe the heat in
June is not fufficient, but probably he m.ight meet
with fuccefa in Augufl.
If this fucceens, there are without douht feveral
ot^^er plants of the fame quality as the ifatis, and
wli.ch yielas a like fecula.
It is alfo probable that the dark green of feverul
plants is coropofcd of yellw^v, srld blue parts ; if by
fermentaticn
THE dyer's assistant. S^
fermentation the yellow could be deftroyed, the
blue would remain. ^ Tins is not a chimerical idea,
and it is eafy to prove that fome ufe might be de-
rived from fuch an experiment.
CHAP. viir.
OF RED.
RED, as has been faid, is one of the primary
or mother colours of the Dyers, in ihe
great dye there are four principal reds, which are
the ba(is of the reft. Thefc aie,
I. Scarlet of grain. 2. The fcarlet, now in
ufe, or flame-coloured fcarlet, formerly called l^utch
fcarlet. 3. Thecrixr.fon red. Axid, 4.. The mad-
der red.
1 here are alfo the bailard fcarlet and the baftard
crimfon ; but as thefe are only mixtures of the
principal reds, they ought not to be coufidered as
particular colours.
The red, or nncaret of bourre *. was formerly
permitted in the great dye.
All theie different reds have their particular
fhades from the deeped to the llghte'l, but they
furm feparjte cLifTes, as the fnades of the one never
fall into thofe ol' the other.
The reds are worked in a different manner from
the blues, the wool or ftuffs not beinj; immediately
dipped in the dye, but previouily receivinj^ a prepa-
ration which gives them no colour, but prepares
them to receive that of the colouring in<jredlent.
D6 This
* This colour is given with weld aad gou's haJjr;^oil'jJ. in pot-
a/lics, and !i a bright orange red. .' • ■■ ■•'
S4 THE dyer's assistant.
This Is called the water of preparation; It is com-
inoniy made with acids, fuch as four waters, alum
and tartar, r.qua fortis, aqua re^alis, kc. Thefe
preparing ingredients are ufeci in different quanti-
ties, according to the colour and ihade required.
Galls are alfo often ufed, and fonaetirr.es alkaline
falts. This 1 fhall explain in the ccuife of this
treatife, when I conne to the method of working
each of thefe colours.
CHAP. IX.
OF SCARLET OF GRAIN.
THIS colour is called fcarlet of grain, becaufe
it is made with the kermes, which was
long thought to be grain of the tree on which it is
found. It was formerly called French fcarler,
imagining it to be firft found out in France, and
is now known by the name of Venetian fcarlet,
being much in ufe there, and more made than in
any o'her place. The fafhion pafTed from thence
into France and other countries. It has indeed
Jefs luftre, and is browner than the fcarlet now in
fafbion ; but it has the advantage of keeping its
fcrightnefs longer, and does not fpot by mud or
acid liquors.
The kermes is a gall infe<S, which is bred, lives,
and multiplies upon the i/ex aau/eato cocci glandif-
crcy C. B. P. S: rne comes from Narbonne,
but greater quantities from Alicant and Valentia,
and the peafants of Languedoc yearly bring it to
Montpelier and Narbonne. The merchants, who
buy them to fend abroad, fpread them on cloths,
and fprinkle them with vinegar, in order to kill
the little infgdts that are within, which yield a red
powder,
THE dyer's assistant. 85
powder, which is feparated from the (hell after
drying, and is then paflied through a fievej tliis is
done particularly in Spain.
They then make it up in bales, and in the middle
of each a quantity of this powder is inclofed in a
leather bag, in proportion D the whole bale.
Thus each 1^'yer has his due proportion of this
powder. Thefe bales are gcrierally fent to Mar-
feilles, from whence t'ley are txported to the Le-
vant, Algiers, and Tunis, where it is greatly made
ufe of in dyin^.
The red draperies of the fiiiures in the ancient
tapeftry of Brulfels, and other manufa6tories of
Flanders, are dyed with this ingredient ; and fome
that have been wrouL ht upwards of two hundred
years, have fcarceiy loft any thing of the brisht-
nefs of the colour. I (hall now proceed to 2ive
the method of making this fcarlet of grain, which
is now feldom ufed but for wools deligned for
tapeftry.
Preparation of the Wool for Scarlet of Grain.
T.venty pounds of wool and half a buftiel of
bran are put into a copper, with a fuffici^nt quantity
of water, and fufFered to boil half an hour, ftirring
it every now and then j it is then taken out to
dram.
It is neceflary to obferve, that wlieaever fpun
wool is to be dved, a ftick is pafled through each
batik (which cc^imonly Weighs one pound) and
thev remain on he fti k during the C'urle of the
work to prevent their entanglir.g. This ftick alfo
enables the Dyer to return the hanks with more
eaie, by plunemg each part fucceflively in the li-
quor, by winch thty take an equal dye ; by raifiug
tiie hank with a ftick, and drawing it half way
out
86 THE dyer's assistant.
cut cf the copper, fe-'zing the other end of the hank
with the i-tber hand, it is plunged towards tie bot-
tom. If the wool be too hot, this may be done
with two fticks, ?nd the ofiener this is repeated,
the more even will be the dye ; the ends of the
fticks are then placed on two poles to drain. Thele
poles are ^xed in the wall above the ccpper.
L'.quorfor the Kermts.
While this prepared wool is draining, the cop-
per is emptied, and frelh v.'ater put in, to which
is added about a nfth of four water, four pounds
of Roman alum grolsjy powdered, and two pounds
of red tartar. The whole is brought to boil, and
that inllaf:t the hanks are dipped in (on the fticks)
which are to remain in for two h- urs, ftirring
them continually one after the other after the me-
thod already laid down.
I mui^ in this place obferve, that the liquor »n
which the alum is put, when on the point ot boil-
ing fometimes rifes Jo fuddenly that it comes over
the copper, it not prevented by adding cold wat-r.
If, when It is nling, the I'pun wool is ;nitin?)y put
in, it ft ps it, ana produces tlie fame effeds as
cold water.
The liquor does not rife fo fuddenly when there
is a large quantity of tartar, a in the procefs j but
when the alum is ufed alone, for.etiir.es above
halt the liquor comts over the copper whe.n it
begins to boil, if not prevented by the method de-
fer ibed.
When the wool has boiled, two hours in this
liquor, it is taken out, left to drain, gently fquecz-
ed, and put into a linen bag in a cool place for
five or fix days, and fometimes longer ; this is
called leaving the wool in preparation. This is to
mskc
THE dyer's assistant. 87
make it penetrate the better, and helps to augment
the adion cf tlie falts, for as a part of the liquor
always fiie-s off, it is evident that the remaining-,
being fuller of faline particles, becomes more active,
provided there remained a fufficient quantity of
humidity ; for the falts being cryftalized and dry,
would have no more action.
I have dv;elled much longer on this preparing
liquor, and the method of making it, than I ihall
in the fequel, as there are a great number ot co-
lours for which it is prepared pretty near in the
fame proportion, fo that when this happens, I fhall
flightly defcribe it, mentioning only the changes
that are to be made in the quantity of alum, tartar,
four water, or other ingredients.
After the fpun wool has been covered^five or fix
days, it is fitted to receive the dye. A frelh liquor
is then prepared according to the quantity ot wool
to be dyed, and when it begins to be lukewarm,
take 12 ounces of powdered kermes for each pound
of wool to be dyed, if a full and well-colouied
fcarlet is wanted. If the kermes was old and flat,
a pound of it would be required to each pound of
wool. When the liquor begins to boil, the yarn
(ftiil moift, which it will be if it has been well
wrapped in the bag, and kept in a cool place) is
put in; If it had been boiled a long time berore,
and grown dry, it muft be liahtly pafled through
lukewarm water, and well fqueezed before it is
dyed.
Previous to its being dipped in the copper with
the kermes, a handful ot wool is calt in, which is
let to boil for a minute : ti.is takes up a kmd of
black fcum, which the kermes tail up, by which
the wool that is afterwards dipped acqu res a hner
colour. This handtui of wool being taker, out,
the prepared is to be put in. The hanks are pafled
on
88 THE DY£R's assistant.
on fticks as in the preparation, continually ftirring,
and airing them one after the other, it mu!^ boil
after this manner an hour at leaft, then taken out
and placed tn the poles to drain, afterwards wrung
and wa(hed.
The dye ftill remaining in the liquor, mav fer\'e
to dip a little 'rclh parcel of prepared woci; it will
take fome colour in prnprrtion to the goodnefs and
quality of the ketmes put into tiie copper.
When different (hades are wanted, a iefs quan-
tity of kernics is vifed, fo that for twenty pounds of
prepared wool feven t r eight are lufficient.
I he quantity of wool that is to have the iichteft
ihade is ft; It to be clipped, and to remain no longer
in than the time fufficieru to turn it and make it
take tlie dye equally. T hen the next rieepeft ihade
intended is c'ipped, and left to remain fome time
longer; after' this manner tb.e w:rk is continued
to the l2i% which is left as long as requifite to ac-
quire the neccfTary (hade.
Tt e f eafon ot wm king the lightell (hades firft, is,
that if the yarn is left too long in, no damatie Ts
<^one, as that hank mav ferve for a deeper (hade ;
whereas, if they beein by a ceeper, there wculd be
no rcTiievy if a failure happened in feme of the
lighter (haiie The fame caution is t<j be taken
in all colours wJiofe Ihades are to be different.
There are feldom more (hades than one from
the colour row fpoken of; but as the working
.part iS the fame roi all colours, what has been laid
on this 'uhjecrt will ferve for the re(l.
The yarn thus dyed, before bringing it to the
river, tray be pafied tnrcugh lukewarnn warer, in
•wh. -h a fmall qL,^ntity of (oap has been perfedly
<l!lToived ; this gives a brightnefs to the colour,
but at the fame tim faddens it a little, that is, gives
it a iitiie cait of the cri;iifon. As I (hall often
make
THE dyer's assistant. 89
make ufe of the terms rouzing and faddening^ efpe-
ciaily in the acids, it is neceflary to explain their
meaning.
Saddening^ is giving a crimfon or violet caft to
red ; foap and alkaline falts, fuch as ley of allies,
pot-afhe", lime, fadden reds; thus they ferve to
brip.g them to the fliade required when too bright,
and that they are too much rouzed.
Rouzing^ is doing quite the reverfe ; it is giving
a fire to the red, by making it border on the yellow
or orange. This is performed on wool by the
means of acids, as red or white tartar, cream .of
tartar, vinegar, lemon juice, and aqua fortis.
Thefe acids are added more or lefs, acccrdiug to
the depth of the orange colour required. For ex-
ample, if the fcarlet of grain was wanted to be more
bright, and approach fomewhat nearer to common
fcarlet, a little of the fcarlet compofition, which
fhall be fpoken of, muft be poured into the liquor
after the kermes is put in, and the brown colour of
that liquor would immediately be brightened by
the acid, and become of a brighter red , the wool
dipped in would be more liable to be fpotted by
mud and acid liqux)*s : the reafon will appear in the
next chapter.
I have made various experiments on this colour,
in order to make it fitter and brighter than what it
generally is, but I never could extra<5l a red that
was to be compared to that of cochineal.
Of all tlie liquors which I made for the prepara-
tion of the wool, that which was made with the
preparations juff mentioned fucceeded befl:. By
changing the natural dye of the kermes, by dif-
ferent kinds of ingredients of metallic folutions,
&c. various colours are made, which I (hall im-
mediately fpeak of.
I fhall
90 THE dyer's assistant,
I fliall fay but little about dying fiuifs with this
red, as the proportion cannot be prefer i bed for each
yard of fluff, on account of their breadth and thick-
nefs, cr the quantity of \vo®l entering the r compo-
fition ; pra6tice alone will teach the necelLry quan-
tity for each fort of ftufF; however, not to work
in the dark, or to'try experiments at random, the
furefl: way will be to weigh the fluffs, and to di-
minifh about one-fourth pacf of the colouring in-
gredients laid down for fpJb wool, as fluffs take
up lefs colour inwardly, tlfeir texture being more
compacS^, prevents its penetration, whereas yarn
cr wool in the fleece receives it equally -within and
without. vvi.
The alum and tartar for the Tiqunr of prepara-
tion for the fluffs mufl be diminjfhed in the fame
proportion, and they are not to remain in the pre-
paring liquor as long as the wool. It may be dyed
the next day after boiling.
If wool in the fleece is dyed with the red of the
kermes, either to incomparate it with cloths 6f a
mixed colour, or to make full cloths, it will liave
a much finer effe6l than if the wool had been dyed
in the red of madder. 1 fhall mention this in
defcribing the compound colours in which the
kermes is ufed, or ought at leafl to be ufed in pre-
ference to madder, which does not give fo fine a
red, but, being cl.eaper, is. commonly fubftituted
for it.
Half- grain fcarlet, or baftard fcarlet, is that
which is made of equal parts of kermes and mad-
der. This mixture affords a very holding colour,
not bright, but inclining to a blood red. It is pre-
pared and worked in the fame manner as that made
of kermes alone. This dye is much cheaper, and
the Dyers commonly make it lefs perfedi by di-
minifliing the kermes and augmenting the madder.
THE DYER S ASSISTANT. 9I
. By the proofs that have been made of fcarlet of
grain, or k^rmes, wliether by expofing it to tlie
{an, or by different proofs, it is certain there is not
a more holding or a better colour ; yet the kermes
is no where in ufe but at Venice. The mode
,of this colour has been entirely out fince the making
of flame-coloured fcarlets. This fcarlet of grain
is now called a colour.of bullock's blood ; never-
thelefs, it lias great adVantages over the other, for
it neither blackens nor foots, and greafe may be
taken out without prejudice to its colour ; but it
is out of fart^on, and that is fufficicnt. This has
entirely put a flop to the confumption-of kermes
in France. Scarce a Dyer knows it, and when
Monfieur Colbert wanted a certain quantity for
the experiments above related, he was obliged to
fend for it to Languedoc, the merchants of Paris
keeping only a fufficiency for medicinal purpofes.
When a Dyer is obliged to dye a piece of cloth,
known yet under the name of fcarlet of grain, as
he has neither the knowledge of the kermes, nor
the cuftom of ufing it, he makes it of a cochineal,
as I fhall relate in the following chapter ; it comes
dearer, and is iefs holding than that made of the
kermes. The fame is done in regard to fpun wool
defigned for tapeftries, and as this fhade is pretty
difficult to hit with cochineal, they commonly mix
• brazil wood, which hitherto has been a falfe ingre-
dient, permitted only in the leffer dye. For this
reafon all thefe kind of reds fade in a very fhort
time, and though they are much brighter than re-
quired, coming out of tiie hands of the workman,
they lofe all their brightnefs before the expiration
of a year ; they whiten or become exceeding grey ;
it is therefore to be wiflied that the ufe of kermes
was again eftablifhed. It is alfo certain, that if
fome Dyer fet about ufing it, there are feveral cc-
loufs
92 THE dyer's assistant.
Icurs that might be extracled from it -.vith more
€afe and lefs expence than the commci method ;
for thefe co.ours would bt better and more hold'ng-,
and he would thereby acquire a greater reputati.)n.
I have made above fiity experiments with the
Vermes J from which feme u'.e !n praiftice n.av arife ;
I ftsl! only relate fuch as have produced xhe m it
(Lnguiar co'ours.
By mixing the kermcs wiih cream of tariar>
without alum, and as much of tliC ccrnpofition
as wonld be ufed for the makins a Icarlet with co-
cliineal, you have in one liquor an exceeding bright
cinnamon, tor nrthinij but"tiie acid entering in the
iLixmre, the red parts of the kermes become fo
minute that they almoft eJ'cape the fight. But if
this cinnamon colour he pafTed through a liquor of
Roman alum, part of tiiis red appears again ;
whether it be by the addition or the a.um that
drives out a part of the acid of the comp.fi'. ion, or
the earth of the alum precipitated by the aftriction
of the kermes, which has the efFedl ofgalls^ I know
not ; but this red thus reftored is not tine.
With cream of tartar (the cortipofition for fcar^
let) and alum, in greater quantity than tartar, the
kermes gives a lilac colour, which varies according
as the proportion of ingredients are changed.
If in the place of alum and tartar, ready pre-
pired tartar of vitriol is fubftituted, v.hich is a very
hard fait, refulting from tJic mixture of the vitriolic
acid and a fixed alkali, fuch as the oil of tartar,
pot-aflies, &c. an.i if, I fay, after boiling the kermes
in a folution of a fmail quantity of this fait, the
fluff be dipped in and boiled one hour, it acquires
a tolerable handfome agath grey, and in which very
little red is feen, for the acid of the compofitioa
bavins too much divided the red of the kermes, and
the tartar of vitriol, not containing the earth of the
alum.
THE DYER S ASSISTANT. 93
•alum, it could not re- unite thefe rerl atoms, dif-
perled by precipitation. Ti^efe agath -reys are of
, the good dye, for, as I have obferved in the chapter
treating of indigo, the tartar of vitriol is a hard
fait, which is not calcined by the fun, and is indif-
foluble in rain water.
Glauber faits mixed with the kermes entirely de-
ftroy its red, and give an earthy grey that does
not ftand the proof, for this fait neither refifts cold
w.^ter nor the rays of tlie fun, which reduce it into
powder. Vitriol or green copperas, and blue vitriol
feparated fubftituted for alum, but jjined to th.e
cryftal of tartar, equally deftroy or veil the red of
the kermes, which in thefe two experiments pro-
duce the fame efFeit as if galls or fumach had been
made ufe of; for it precipitates the iron of the
green vitriol, and dyes the cloth of a grey brown,
and the copper of the blue vitriol dyes it of an
olive.
Inftead of blue vitriol, I ufed a folution of cop-
per* in aqua fcrtis, which alfo produced an olive
colour ; a convincing proof that the kermes has the
precipitating quality of the galls, fince it precipi-
tates the copper of the vitriol as a decodlion of gall-
nut would.
There is great probability that what renders the
red of tiie kermes as holding as that of madder, is
from the infedts feeding on an aftringent fhrub,
which, notwithftanding the changes made by the
digeftion of the juices of the plant, ftill retains the
aftringent quality of the vegetable, and confequently
the virtue, and fo gives a greater fpring to the pores
of the wool to contract themfelves quicker and with
greater ftrength, when it comes out of the boiling
water, and is expofed to the cold air j for I have
obferved
* Verdigrife,
94 THE dyer's assistant.
obferved that a'l barks, roots, weeds, fruits, and
other matters that have forae allriclicn, yield colcuis
of the good dye.
Violets zuithout Blue.
The white vitriol of goflar, whofe bafis is the
zkick, being joined with the cryftal cf tartar,
changes the red of the kermes into a violet. Thus
v.ith one colouring ingredient, and fimple changes,
violets are made without a blue ground ; for tnis
compound cclcur, hitherto only obtained by putting
a blue on a red, or a red on a blue, is made as
well with cochineal, or even ^ith madder, as (hall
be fhov.'n treating of thefe two ingredients. Vv'hite
vitriol being extracted from a mine, containing
lead, arl'enic, and feveral other natters, whcfe re-
crements melted afterwards with fand and alkaline
falts, vitrifies into a blue mafs, called /^^v. I fuf-
pe£led the white vitriol might contain a portion of
this blue, which, with the red of the kermes, might
have changed to a violet, and confequently that the
mine of i]\e bifmuth, which really contains this
blue matter, znd the biimuth itfeif, would produce
tlie fame effect as wl ite vitriol ; neither was I mif-
tsken in my conjeciure; for having put fotne of
the extract of the mine of bifmuth in the liquor of
kermes, and fcn-je of the folution of the bifmuth
itfeif, upon another decodlion of the fame ingre-
dient, they both dyed cloth of a violet colour. I
fhall not here give the procefs of extracting the
mine of bifmuth, for it is a cifficuk operation for a
Dyer. However, if the reader is defirous to know
what I mean by the extraction of the mine of bif-
muth, he will find the prccefs in the Royal Aca-
demy of Sciences for the year ly^Jt where there is
a menicir on fvmpathetic inks. As to the folution
of
THE DYER S ASSISTANT. 95
of bifmuth, which produces almoft the fame effe£l,
it is made after the following manner :
Take four parts of fpirits of nitre, and four parts
of very clear water, which mix together, and dif-
folve therein one part of bifmuth, or tin glafs, broken
in fmail pieces, put the laft little by little into the
liquor, left they fliould occafion too violent a fer-
mentation. Acids put in too great abundance in
the liquor of the kermes, whether it be fpirits of
vitriol, aqua fortis, vinegar, lemon juice, even four
water, fo greatly divide the red colouring particles,
that the cloth receives but a cinnamon colour, bor-
dering on the aurora, if there is too much acid, and
a little redder if there is lefs.
Fixed alkaline falts, mixed with four water and
cream of tartar, in the place of alum, do not de-
ftroy the red of the kermes as acids do, but faddens
and muds it if too much be put in, fo that the cloth
receives only a faded lilac colour.
Other experiments, ftill more diverfified than
thofe here related, prefented an infinite variety
cf colours, but nothing more beautiful than what
may be done with cheaper drugs than the kermes i
I Ihall therefore pafs them over.
CHAP. X.
OF FLAME-COLOURED SCARLET.
FLAME-coloured fcarlet, that is, bright- colour-
ed fcarlet, known formerly under the name of
Dutch fcarlet, (the difcovery of which Kunkel at-
tributes to Kufter, a German chymili) is the fineft
and brighteft colour of the dye. It is alfo the mod
<roftly, and one of the hardeft to bring to perfection.
It is not eafy to determine the point .of perfection,
for,
gS THE dyer's assistant.
for, independent of (iifftient tr.fli's concerning the
choice of ccJL-ur', tliere are aifo general fancies,
Nvhich ciake ct.rtairj colours .ncre in falljion at one
time rhan anctl.er; when this happens, afliionable
colours becotne p"rtedt ones. Fori»,ejly fcarlcts
were chcfen full, deep, and of a degree of bright-
nefs wliich the fight eafily bore. At tins tirr.e they
iT;u{l be on the orange, full of fire, and of a bright-
ncfs which dazzles the eye. I Ihall not decide
which of thefe two fafliions deferve the preference,
but (hall give the rr.ethod of making them both,
and all the fliades which hold a medium between
ihele extremes.
Cochineal, which yields this beautiful colour,
and is aifo called raeflick, or tefcalle^ is an infect
that is gaii^ered in great quantities in Mexico.
The natives and Spsriards, who have but frnall
eftabjifliments there, cultivate them, that is, csre-
fully gather tliCm from the plant en which they
feed before the ramy feafon. They kill and dry
thcfe deligned r.r fale, and preferve the reft to mul-
tiply when the bad feafon is over. This infe^
fee^s and liteds upon a kind of prickly opuhtia,
which they csll tcpal. It may be preserved in a
dry place fur ages witliout fpoiling.
The cochineal fylveflre, or campeffiane, is aifo
brought rroni Vera-Cruz. The Indians of Old
and New Mexico gather this kind in the woods ;
it feeds, grows, and generates there on the wild
uncultivated cpuntias ; it is there expofed in the
rainy Aafon to all the humidity of the air, and diss
naturally. This cochineal is always fmaller tb>an
the fine or cultivated ; the colour is more holding
and better, bvi- has not the fame brightnefs, neither
is it profitable to. uie it, fi^ice it requires four parts,
and fometimes more, to do what may be done
with cne of fine.
2 Sometirr.es
THE DYtR's ASSISTANT. 97
Sometimes they have damaged cochineal at Ca-
diz; this is line cochineal that has been wetted
with fait water, occafioned by fome (hipwrcck or
leakage. 'Thefe accidentrs confukrably dinninifii
the price, the fea fait faddening the dye. This
kind ferves only to make purples, and even thofe
are not the bed. However, a perfqn in 1735
found the fecret to turn this to almoft as mucfi
advantage for fcarlet as the fined cochineal. The
difcovery of this fecret is eafy, but let him that
poffefTes it enjoy it, I fhall not deprive him of the
advantage he might have in it.
Every Dyer has a particular receipt for dying
fcarlet, and each is fully perfuaded that his own
is preferable to all others ; yet the fuccefs depends
on the choice of the cochineal, of the water ufed
in the dye, and on the manner of preparing the
folution of tin, which the Dyers call compofition
for fcarlet.
As it is this compofition which gives the bright
flaiiie colour to the cochineal dye, and v.'hich
without this acid liquor would naturally be of a
crimfon colour, I (hall defcribe the preparation
that fucceeded beft with me.
Compofitian for Scarlet,
Take eight ounces of fpirit of nitre, (which Is
always purer than the common aqua fortis mortly
ufed by the Dyers) and * be certain that it con-
£ tains
* Diflblve in a fjr.all quantity of fpirit of nitre as much filrer
as it will take J put a few drops of this into fome of the fpirit cf
nitre that is to be proved ; if this fpirit remains tranfparenr, it is
pure; tut if a white cloud be perceived, which will afterwards
form a fediment, it is a fign that there is a commixture of vitriol
or fpirit of fait. In order therefore to rentier the fpirit t f nine ab-
. folaiely pure; drop the folution of filter gradually into it, fo long
§8 THE dyer's assistant.
tains no vitriolic acid ; weaken this nitrous zad
by puttins into it eight ounces of filtered river
water; difToIve in it, little b\ liit'e. half an ounce
o( very white lalt amn^oniac, to make it an aqua
regia, becaufe fpirits of nitre akne wa i ct dif-
folve b!jck-tin. Laftly, add two drachms or Talt-
petre ; this might be omitted, but J Lbierved that
it was of uie in nr.nking :he dye f-r.coth and equal.
In this squa r^gia thus weakened, ciiloive one
ounce of the beft hl:ck-tin, which is firft granul-
ated cr made roiaii while mieltcd Dy caft.ng ir irom
a iieight into a veflel of cold-water. Tl.efc fmall
grains of tin are put into tlic difiblvent one by one,
letting the .firft d;ffol\'e bttore putting in others j
this prevents the Icis of the red vapcurs, which
would rife in great abuncance, and be loft if the
diiTolution of tne rretal was rnac'e too haiVily ; it is
necefTarv to prekrve thefe vapours, and, as Kunkel
cbferved, they greatly ».ontribu'e towaiv's the
brightneis of the colour, e.ther becaufe thefe
vapours are acids that evaporate and are loft, or
contain a fulphur peculiar to faiipetre, which giveg
a brightnefs to the colour. This method is indeed
much longer than that ufed by the Dyers, who im-
mediately pcur the aqua fortis upon the tin reduced
to fmall piece?, and wait till a ilrcng fermentstion
enfues, and a great quantity evaporates before
they weaken it with common water. When the
tin is thus diiTcived, this fcsriet compofition is
made, and the liquor is of the beautiful colour of
diiTolved gold, without any dirt or black .fediment,
as
as It O-.aH produce the leaft turbidr.efs, time being given for the
ipirit to beccme clesr betwixt each addiricn. The {-/.Tit c( nitre
b£Jnf then po'jred cff from t e fedin.ent, will be perfefUy pure }
a:>.d if this fediir.er.f, which is the Giver precipitated, he evapo-
ratid to dryrefs, jud then infofed in a crucibie with a fnriail
^•jar.tiry of any fcxed alkaline fa^t, i; wUi be reduced to i:» pr^-
*ii D,eta:!.r.e flste.
THE dyer's assistant. 99
as I ufed very pure tin without allay, and fuch as
runs from the firft melting of the furnaces of ,
Cornwall. This folutionof tin is very tranfparent
when newly made, and becomes miiky and opaque
during the great heat of fummer; the greateft part
of the Dyers are of opinion, that it is then changed
and good for nothing; yet mine, notwithltanding
this defe£^, made as bright fcarlet as if it had re-
mained clear ; befides, in cold weather, what I
made recovered its firft tranfparency. It muft be
kept in a glafs bottle with a ftopper, to prevent the
evaporation of the volatile pans.
As the Dyers do not attend to this, their com-
pofition often becomes ufelefs at the end of twelve
or fifteen days. I have laid down the beft method,
and, if they feek perfedion, they will abandon
their old practice, which is imperfed:.
The Dyers in France firft put into a ftone vefiel,
with a large opening, two pounds of fait am-
moniac, two ounces of refined faltpetre, and two
pounds of tin reduced to grains by water, or,
which is ftill preferable, the filings of tin; for
when it has been melted and granulated, there is
always a fmall portion converted into a calx which
does not diffolve. They weigh four pounds of
water in a feparate veftel, of which thev pour about
two ounces upon the mixture in the ftone vefTel ;
they then add to it a pound and a half of common
aqua fortis, which produces a violent fermentation.
When the ebullition crafes, they put in the fame
quantity of aqua fortis, and an inftant after they
add one pound more. They then put in the re-
mainder of the four pounds of water they had fet
£fide; the vefiel is then clofe covered, and the com-
pofition let to ftand till the next day.
The fait petre and fait ammoniac are fometitnes
tlifiblved in the aqua fortis before the tin is put in ;
E 2 ' thev
100 THE dyer's assistant.
they pradice both methods indilcriminately, though
it is certain that this laft method is beft. Others
mix the water and aqua fortis together, and pour
this mixture on the tin and fah ammoniac. In
ihorr, every Dyer follows his own method.
[Voter for the Preparation of Scarlet.
The day after preparing the compofition, the
water for the preparation of fcarlet is made, which
differs from that made in the preceding chapter.
Clear the water well. For each pound of fpim
wool, put twenty quarts of very clear river water
(hard fpring water will not do J into a fmal! copper.
When the water is a little more than lukewarm,
two ounces of cream of tartar finely powdered,
and one drachm and a half of powdered and fifted
cochineal is added. The fire is then made a httie
Wronger, and when the liquor is ready to boil, two
ounces of the compofition are put in. This acid
iiiftantly changes tlie colour of the liquor, which,
from a cri'Tifon, becomes of the colour of blood.
As foon as this liquor begins to boil, the wool is
dipped in, which muil have been previoufly wetted
in warm water and wrung. The wool is conti-
nually worked in this liquor, and left to boil an
hour and a half; it is then taken out, flightly
wrung, and waftied in frefli water. The wool
coming out of the liquor is of a lively fle^ colour,
cr even fome fhades deeper, according to the good-
nefs of the cochineal, and the ftrength of the com-
pofition. The colour of the liquor is then entirely
pafTed into the wool, remaining almofl as clear as
common water.
Tals is called the water of preparation for fcar-
ler, and the firfl: jJreparation it goes through before
it is dyed j a preparation abfolutely necefiary,
without
THE DY£R*S ASSISTANT. lOI
without vihich the dye of the cochineal would not
be fo good.
Reddening.
To finifh it, a frefh liquor is prepared with clear
water, the goodnefs of the water being of the
greateft importance towards the perfeilion of the
leaflet. An ounce and a half of ftarch is put in *,
and when the liquor is a little more than luke-
warm, fix drachms and a half of cochineal finely
powdered and fifted is thrown in. A little before
the Hquor boils, two ounces of the compofition is
poured in, and the liquor changes its colour as in
the former. It muft boil, and then the wool is
put into the copper, and continually ftirred as in
the former. It is likewife boiled an hour and a
half J it is then taken out, wrung, and walhed.
The fcarlet is then in its perfe£l:ion.
One ounce of cochineal is fuf£cient for a pound
of wool, provided it be worked with attention, and
after the manner laid down, and that no dye re-
Hiains in the liquor. For coarfe cloth lefs v/ould
do, or half as much for worfted. However, if it
was required to be deeper of cochineal, a drachm
or two might be added, but not more, for it would
then lofe its luftre and brightnefs.
Though I have mentioned the quantity of the
cornpofition, both in the water of the preparation
and the dye, yet this proportion is not to be taken
as a fixed rule.
The aqua fortis, ufed by the Dyers, is feldom
of an equal ftrength ; if, therefore, it be always
mixed with an equal quantity of water, the com-
pofition would not produce the fame eflfeit ; but
tlicre is a method of afcertaining the degree of
E 3 acidity
* Starch foftens it,
JG2 THE DYER S ASSISTANT.
acidity of aqua fortis. For example, to ufe that
only, two otnces of which would diffolve one
ounce of filver. This would produce a compo-
fition that would be always equal, but the quality
of the cochineal would then produce new varieties,,
and the trifling difference tliat this commonly caufcs
in the fliade of fcarlei is of no great fignihcaticn,
as more or lefs may be ufed to bring it precifely to
tlie colour defired. If the compofiuon be -weak,
and the aforefaid quantity not put in, the fcarlet
will be a little deeper and fuller in colour. On the
contrary, if a little more is added, it will be more
on thcvorange, and have what is called more fire j
to rectify v;hich, add a little of the compofition,
ftirring it well in the copper, having firfl taken out
tht v/ool ; for if it was to touch any part before it
was thoroughly mixed, it would blot it. If, en the
contrary, the fcarlet has too much fire, that is, too
iTiUch on the orange, or too much rouzed, it mufk
be paficd through clear warm water; when finiftjed,
this I'addens it a little, that is, diminifhes its bright,
crange ; if there ftill remained too much, a little
Pvoman alur. muft be mixed with the hot water.
For fpun wool that is to have all the various
Ihades of fcarlet, about half the cochineal, and half
the compofition for full fcarlet is fufficient. The
cream of tartar muft: alfo be diminifhed propor-
tionabiy in the water of preparation. J he wool
riiufi be divided into as many hanks or Hcains as
there are to be Ciades, and when the liquor is pre-
pared, the (kains that are to be lighteft are firft to be
dipped, and to remain in but a very Ihort fpace of
time; then thofe that are to be aJittle deeper, which
mull: remain in fomewhat longer, and thus pro-
ceeding to the deepefl ; the wool is then to be
walhed, and the liquor prepared to finifli them. In
this liquor, each of thefe Ihades are to be boiled
one
THE dyer's assistant. lOJ
one after the other, beginning always with the
lighteft, and if any are perceived nor to be of the
proper (hide, they muft be pafTed again through
the iiquor. The eye of a Dyer will readily judge
of the (hades, and a little pratStice will bring this
to perfection.
The Dyers are divided in opinion of what metal
the boiler (houIJ be made In Languedoc they
ufe thofe made of the fineft block-tin, and fcveral
Dyers in Paris follow the (ame method. Yet that
great Dyer, M. de Julienne, whofe fcarlets are ia
high repute, ufes brafs. The fame is ufed in the
great manufadtory at St. Dennis. M. de Julienne,
to keep the ftuifs from touching the boiler, makes
ufe of a large rope-net with clofe ma(hes. At St.
Dennis, in(\ead of a rope- net, they have large
bafVets, made of willov/llripped of the bark, and
not too clofe worked.
As fo much had been faid concerning the metal
of the boiler, I tried the experiment. I took two
eils of white (edan cloth, which I dyed in two fepa-
rate boilers of equal fize ; one was of brafs^ futed
with a rope- net, the other of block- tin. The co-
chineal, the compofition, and other ingredients,
were weighed with tl'ie utmoiV accuracy, and boiled
precifely the fame time. In fhort, I took all pof-
iible care that the procefs fhould be the fame in
both, that if any difference arofe it might only be
attributed to the difrerent metals of the boiler.^
After the firft liquor, the two pieces of cloth were
abfolutely alike, only that which had been boiled in
the tin veffel appeared a little more ftreaked and
uneven, which, in all likelihood, proceeded from
thefe two ells of cloth being lefs fcoured at theinill
than the two others; the two pieces were tinifhed
each in the feparate boilers, and both turned out
veiy tinei but that which had been made in the tin
i-' 4 boikr
104 THE dyer's assistant.
boiler bad a little mere fire than the other, and th«
1 jft v/as a little more faddeiied. h would have beea
an eafy matter to have brought them both to the
fame (hade, but that was not my intention.
From this experiment, i conclude, that when a
brafs boiler is ufcd, it requires a little more of the
cornpofiiion than the tin one ; but this addition of
ti»e compcfition mskes the clcth feel rough; to
avoid this defecl, the Dyers who ufe brafs veffels
put in a little turmeric, a drug of the Dye, but
wiiich gives to fcarlct that ihade which is now in -
faihion ; I mean that flame- colour, which the eye
is fcarce able to bear.
This adulteration is eafily difccvered by cutting
a piece of the cloth ; if there is no turmeric, the
web will be of a fine v/hite, but yellow if there is.
\Vljen the web is dyed the fan;e as the furface, it
is fiid that colour is webbed, and the contrary, when
the middle of the weaving remains white. The
lawful fcarlet is never dyed in the web : the adul-
terated, where the turmeric or furtic has been made
ufe cf, is more liable to change its colour in the
air than the other. Eut as tiic brighteft fcarlets
are i:iow in fafliion, and muft have a yellow caft, it
is better to tolerate the ufe of turmeric, than to ufe
too great a quantity of thecompofition to bring the
fcar'et to ti.is fhade ; for in this laft cafe, the cloth
would be damiaged by it, would be fooner fpotted
by dirt from the quality of ilie acid, and would be
more eaCly torn, becaufe acids ftifien the fibres of
the wool, and render them brittle.
1 muft alfo take notice, that if a copper veflel is
ufed it cannot be kept too clean. 1 have failed
fcveral times with my patterns of fcarlet, by not
having the copper fcoured.
I cannot help condemning the common pradlice
of fome Dyers, even the mofl eminent, who pre-
pare
THE dyer's assistant. IO5
pare their liquor over-night, and keep it hot till
next morning, when the)^ dip in their fluffs ; this
they do not to lofe time, but it is certain that the
liquor corrodes the copper in that fpace, and by in-
troducing particles of copper in the cloth, preju-
dices the beauty of the fcarlet. They may fay they
only put in their compofition juft at the time when
tiie cloth is ready to be dipt in the copper ; but the
cream of tartar, or the white tartar, which they
put in over- night, is an acid fait fufficient to cor-
rode the copper of the veflel, and form a verdigrife,
although it dilutes itfelf as it forms, ftill has not a
lefs effe£^.
It would therefore be better to make ufe of tin
boilers, a boiler of this metal mud contribtfte to
the beauty of fcarlet ; but thefe boilers of a fufficient
fize coft much, and may be melted by the negli-
gence of the workmen, and there is a difficulty in
carting them of fo great a fize without fand-flaws,
which mud be filled^ Now if thefe fand-holes
are filled with folder, there muft of neceffity be
places in the boiler thai contain lead ; this lead in
time being corroded by the acid of the compofition,
•will tarnifh the fcarlet. But if fuch a boiler could
be csft without any fand-holes, it is certain iuch
a one would be preferable to all others, as it con-
trades no ruft, and if the acid of the liquor detaches
fome parts, they cannot be hurtful.
Having laid down the manner of dying fpun
wool in fcarlet, and its various fhades, 'which are
fo necelTary for tapeftry and other work, it is proper
to give an idea of the dying of feveral pieces of ftuff
at one time. I fhall relate this operation as it is
pradlifed in Languedoc. I made the trial on fome
ells of fluff, which fucceeded very well, but this
fcarlet was not fo fine as the flame-coloured,
E.5 Th':T§
106 THE DYER'iS ASSrSTAWT.
There are two reafons why the wool Is not dyed
before ic is ipun (tor fine colours) firi^ in th.e courfe
of the manufadturing, that is, either in the fpinnhig,
carcing, or weoviog, it would be almofl: iir^pofTible
in a large workfhop, where there are many work-
men, nut that fome particles of white wool, or fome:
other colour would mix, which v;ouId fpoil that of
the ftuff by blotting it ever fo little j for that reafon,
the reds, the blues, the yeliows, the greens, and
all other colours that are to be perfc£lly uniform,
are never dyed before they are manufa6fured.
The fecond reafon, which is peculiar to I'carler,
or rather to ccehineal, is, that it will not ffand the
nulling, and as the greateft part of high fiufFs muft
be ir.ilied after they are taken from the loom, the
cochineal would lofe part of its colour, or at leaft.
would be greatly faddened by thsfoap, which pro-
duces this eit^iEt by the alkaline fait which deftroys
■the brightnefs given to the red by the acid. Thefe
are t!ie reafons that the cloths and fluffs are not
dyed in icarlet, light red, crlmfon, violet, purple,
and other light colours, but after being entirely
milled and drefied.
To dve, for example, f>ve pieces of cloth at one
time of five quarters breadth, and containing fifteen
or fixreen eiis eacli, the following proportsoiis are
to be obferved. Put into a {tone or gljzed earthen
pot tvjulve pounds of aqua fortis, and twenty pounds
of water, to wh;d"i add a pound and a half of tin,,
inside in grains by running it in water, or nled.
The diiToiution is msde quicker or flower, accord-
ing to the greater or lefTer acidity of the aqua fortis.
Trie whole is left to refl twelve liours at leaff,
duriiig which time a kind of black mud fettles at
the bottom of tlie vt-lTel ; what fwinis over this fe-
diii.eiit li poured off by incliintion y this liquor is
ciear
THE dyer's assistant. 10/
clear and yellow, and is the compofition which is
to be kept by itfelf.
This prccefs differs from the finl in the quan-
tity of water mixt with the aqua fortis, and in the
final! quantity of tin, httle of which^mufl remain
in the liquor, fince aqua fortis alone cannot dilToIve
it, but only corrodes it, and reduces it to a calx,
as there is neither fait petre, nor fait ammoniac
which would form an aqua regia. However, the
effevSl of this compolition differs from the firft only
to the eyes accuflomed to judge of that colour.
This compofition made without fait ammoniac,
and which has been of long ufe amongft a great-
number of manufavSlurers at Carcaffone, who cer-
tainly imagined that its effecSt was owing to the
fulphur of the tin, can only keep thirty-fix hours
in ^winter without fpoiling, and twenty-four hours
in furamer j at the expiration, of which it grows
muddy, and a cloud precipitates to the bottom of
the veffel, which changes to a white fediment..
This is the fmall quantity of tin, which was
fufpended in the acid, but an acid not prepared for
that metal j the compofition which ought to be
yellow becomes at that time as clear as water, and if
ufed in that ftate v/ould not fucceed ; it would have
the fame effect as that which would become milky.
The late M. Baron pretended to have been the
firft difcoverer at Carcaffone of the neceffity of
adding fait ammoniac to hinder the tin from pre-
cipitating. U fo, there was no one in that town
that knew that tin cannot be really diffolved but by
aqua regia.
Having prepared the compofition as I have de-
fcribed it after M. de Fondriers, about fixty cubi-
cal icet of water arc put into a large copper for
the ii/e pieces of cloth before mentioned, and
wiica tiie water grov.'s warm, a bag with bran is
£ 6 UUt;
10% THE dyer's assistant.
put in, fjmetimes alfo four waters are ufed : the
one and the other ferve to correct tl-.e water, that
is. to abforb the eartlw and alkaline matters which
may be in it, and which, as I have already faid^
fsddens the dye cf the cochineal, for the efFccl of
the water ought to be well known, and experience
will teach whether fuch expedients ihould be ufed,
cr whetlier the water, being very pure and denulated
of falts and earthy particles, can be ufed without
fu:h helps.
Be tliat as it will, as loon as the water begins to
1)5 little more than lukewarm, ten pounds of pow-
dered cream of tartar is flung in, that is two
pounds for each piece of clnh. T!ie Tquor is
then raked flrongly, and when it grows a little
hotter, half a pound of powdered cochineal is caft
in, which is well mixt with flicks ; immediately
a^ter, twenty- feven pounds of the compof^tion very
cTesr is poured in, which is alfo well ftirred, and
as f'on as the liqi^or begins to boil, the cloths are
put in, wMch are made to boil flrongly for tvvo
hours, furring them continually by the he'p cf the
wynch ; they are then taken cut upon the fcray, and
■well handled three cr four times from end to end,
by pafling the lirts between the hands to air and
ccoi them. Thev jre afterwards walhed.
Af:er the cloth has been wafhtd, the copper is
emptied and a frefii lii^unr prepared, to which, if
r.eceilary, a bag with bran cr fome four water is
acded ; bur if the water i<: o^ a good quality, thele
sre to be omitred y when the liquor is ready to boil,
elihr pounds ai^d a quarter of powdered and. fifted
cochineal is put in, which is to be mixed as equal-
ly as pcluble th.-ou';:hout the liquor, and having left
off ftirrine, it is t > be obforved when the cochineal
rift^s en the furfsce of the water, and forms a cruft
ot the colour of the le.s of the wine i the inllant
tills
THE DYER S ASSISTANT. IQ9
this cruft opens of itfelf in feveral places, eighteen
or twenty pounds of the compofition is to be added.
A veflel with cold water muft be at hand to caft
on the liquor in cafe it fhould rife, as it fometin^eff
does, after the compofition is put in.
As foon as the compofition is in the copper, and
equally diftributed throughout the whole, the cloth
is caft in, and the wynch ftrongly turned two or
three times, that all the pieces may equally take
the dye of the cochineal. Afterwards it is turned
fiowly to let the water boil, which it muft do very
faft for one hour, always turning the wynch, and
finking the cloth in the liquor with flicks, when by
boiling it rifes too much on the fijrface. The
cloth is then taken out, and the lifts pafTed between
the hands to air and cool it ; it is then wafned,
after which it is to be dyed and dreiTed.
In each piece of the Langueooc fcarlet cloth
there is ufed, as has been fhown, one pound and
three quarters of cochineal in the dye and prepara-
tion ; this quantity is fufRcient to give the cloth a
very beautiful colour. If more cochineal was
added, and a deeper orange-colour required, the
quantity of the compofition muft be augmented.
When a great quantity of fluffs are to be dyed
.in fcarlet, a confiderable profit arifes by doing
them together, for the fame liquor ferves for the
fecond dip which was ufed for the firft. For
example : when the five firfl pieces are finiflied,
there always remains in the liquor a certain quan-
tity of cochineal, which in hven. pounds may
amount to twelve ounces ; fo tliat if this liquor
be ufed to dye other fluffs, the cloths dipped in
it will have the fame fhade of rofe colour as if
• they had been dyed in a frefh liquor with twelve
ounces of cochineal ; yet this quantity may vary
pretty much, according to the quality or choice
of
110 THE dyer's assistant.
©f the cochineal, or according to the finenefs it-
has been reduced to when powdered. 1 fnall fay
no more of this before I ftnifh this chapter ; but
whatever colour may remain in the liquor, it de-
ferves fome attention on account of the high price
©f this drug. The fame liquor is then made ufe of
for other five pieces^ and lefs cochineal and compo-
fition are put in proportion to\vhat may be judged
to remain ; fire and time are aifo faved by this, and
roft- colour and fltfli-colour may aifo be produced
from it ; but if the Dyers have no leifure to make
thefe different liquors in twenty four hours, the
colour of the liquor corrupts, grows turbid, and
lofes the rofe-colour entirely. To prevent this cor-
ruption fome put in Roman alum, but the fcarlets
which are prepared after that manner are all fad-
dened.
When cloths of different qualities, or any other
fluffs are to be dyed, the furefts method is to weigh
them, and for each hundred weight of cloth add
about fix pounds of cryfial or cream of tartar,
eighteen pounds of compofition in the water of
preparation, as much for the reddening, and fix
pounds and a quarter of cochineal. Thus in pro-
poition for one pound of ftuff ufe one ounce of
cream of tartar, lix ounces of compofition, and
one ounce of cochineal ; fome eminent Dyers at.
Paris put two- thirds of the compofition r.:.J a fourth
of the cocluneal in the water of preparation, and
the other third of tlie compolition with three-
fourths of the cochineal in reddening.
It is not cuftomary to put cream of tartar in the
reddenitig, yet I am certain, by experience, that
it does not hurt, provided the quantity does not ex-
ceed hair the weiuht ot the cochineal, and it ap-
peared to 'ne t.) make a more hllmg colour.
Soiiie Overs nave made fcarlet with three dippings ;
THE DYERS ASSISTANT. I If
namely, a firfl: and fecond water for preparation,,
and then the reddening ; but ftill the fame quantity
of drugs is always ufed.
1 obferved, in the foregoing chapter, that the
little ufe made cf kermes for the brown or Vene-
tian fcarlets, obliges moft Dyers to make them
with cochineal j for this purpofe a water of prepa-
ration is made as ufual ; and for the reddening,,
eight pounds of alum are added for each hundred
weight of fluff; this alum is diflblved by itfelf in
a kettle, with a fufEcient quantity of water, thea
poured into the liquor before the cochineal is put
in. The remainder is performed exadlly as in the
common fcarlet ; this is the Venetian fcarlet, but
it has not near the fame folidity as if made with,
the kermea.
Tiiere are no alkaline falts which do not fadden
fcarlet; of this number are the fait of tartar, pot-
aflij pearl- aflies calcined, and nitre fixed by fire;
therefore alum is more generally ufed ; and if
thefe aikalire falts be boiled with the fluffs, they
would confiderably damage them, for they diffolve
all animal fubftances. if the alum be calcined, it
is i^iil the more fecure.
The redder the fcarlet Is, the more it has been
faddened ; from thence it appears tliat thefe co-
lours lofe in tlie liquor that browns them-a part of
their ground ; however one cannot brown in the
good dye but with falts. The late M. Baron ob-
ferves, in a memoir he gave fome time ago to the
Koyal Academy of Sciences, that all the falts he had
made ufe of tor browning, making the colour
fmooih, and preferving its brightnefs and deepnefs,
he h.-i.i fuccccdcd belt with fait of urine, but, as
he ohicrvcs, it is too troubldbme to make this fait
in any quantity,-
I faid.
112 THE dyer's assistant.
I faid, in the beginning of this chapter, that the
choice of the water for dying of fcarlet was very
material, ss the greateft part of common water
faddens it, for they moftly contain a chalky, cal-
caneus earth, and fometimes a futphureous or vi-
tric'ic acid ; thefe are commonly called hard waters,
that is, they will not difloive foap or boil vegeta-
bles well. By finding a method of abforbing or
precipitating thefe hurtful matters, all waters may
be equally good for this kind c{ dye : thus, if al-
kaline matters are to be renvDved, a little four
water produces this effect; for if five or fix buckets
of thefe four waters are mixed with fixty or feventy
of the hard water befcre it comes to boil, thefe
alkaline earths rife in a fcum, which is eaiily taken
off the liquor.
All that I have hitherto faid in this chapter is
for the inflru£lion of Dyers ; I fhall new make an
attempt to fatisfy the philcfopher how thefe dif-
ferent effefts are produced.
Cochineal, infufed or boiled by itfelf Jn pure
water, gives a crimfon colour bordering on the
purple; this is its natural colour; put it into a
glaf?, and drop en it fpirits of nitre ; this colour
will becom? yellow, and if you itill add more, you
wVil fcarcely perceive that there was originally any
red in the liquor ; thus the acid dtflroys the red by
diffoiving it and dividing its parts fo minutely that
they efcape the fight. If in this experiment a vi-
triolic, inf^ead of a nitrous acid be ufed, the firft.
changes of the colour will be purple, then purpled
lilac, after that a light lilac, then flelh-colour, and
laf^iy, colourlefs. This bluifh fubftance, which
mixes with the red to form a purple, may proceed
from that fmall portion of iron, from which oil of
vitriol is rarely exempt. In the liquor of prepa-
ration for fcadetj rto other fait but cream of tartar
is
THE dyer's assistant. II3
is ufed, no alum is added as in tlie common pre-
paring water for other colours, becaufe it would
t'adden the dye by its vitriolic acid ; yet a calx or
lime is required, which, with the red parts of the
cochineal, may form a kind of lake like that the
painters ufe, which may fet in the pores of the wool
by the help of the cryftal of tartar.
This white calx is found in the folution of very
pure tin, and if the experiment of the dye is tnade
in any fmall glazed earthen veflcl, immediately oa
the cochineal's communicating its tin£lure to the
water, and then adding the compolition drop by
drop, each drop may be perceived with a glafs or
lens, to form a fmall circle, in which a brifk fer-
mentation is carried on ; the calx of the tin will be
feen to feparate, and inftantaneoufly to take the
bright dye, which the cloth will receive ia the fe-
quel of the operation.
A further proof that this white calx of tin is ne-
ceflary in this operation, is, that if cochineal was
ufed with aqua fortis, or fpirits of nitre alone, a very
ugly crimfon would be obtained ; if a folution of
any other metal was made ufe of in fpirits of nitre,
as of iron or mercury, from the firft would be had
a deep cinder-grey, and from the fecond, a chef-
nut colour with green ftreaks, without being able
to trace in the one or other any remains of the red
of the cochineal. Therefore, by what 1 have laid
down, it may be reafonable to fuppofe, that the
white calx of the tin, having been dyed by the
colouring parts of the cochineal, rouzed by the acid
of the diffolvent of this metal, has formed this kind
of earthy lake, whofe atoms have introduced them-
felves into the pores of the wool, which were opened
by the boiling water, that they are there plaiftered
by the cryftal of tartar, and thefe pores, fuddenly
contrading by the immediate cold" the cloth was
expofed
114 "^^^ dyer's assistant.
expofed to by airing, that thefe colouring particles
are found fufficiently fet in to be of the good dye,
and that the air will take off the priaiitive bright-
nefs, in proportion to the various matters with
which it is impregnated. In the country, for ex-
ample, and particularly if the fituation be high, a
fcarlet cloth preferves its brightnel's much longer
than in great cities, where the urinous and alkaline
Tspours ai e more abundant. For the fame reafon,
the country mud, which in roads is generally hut
an earth diluted by rain water, does not ftain fcarlet
as the mud of towns where there are urinous mat-
ters, and often a great deal of dilTolved iron, as in
the flreets of great cities, for it is well known that
any alkaline matter deftrcys the eitecl which an acid
has produced on any colour whatfoever. And for
the like reafon, if a piece of fcarlet is boiled in a
ley of pot-afli, this colour becomes purple, and by
a continuation of boiling it is entirely taken out j
thus from this fixed alkali, and the crynal of tartar,
a fblubie tartar is made, which the water diflolves
and eafily detaches from the pores of the wool: all
the maftic of the colouring parts is then deftroyed,
and they enter into the leys of the fairs.
1 have tried feveral experiments on the dye of
cochineal, to ditcover v.'hat might be produced from
the union of its red with other different matters,
which generally are not efleemed colouring ; but I
fhall only relate here fuch as had the moft fingular
cfFeds.
Experiments on Cochineal Liquor.
Zinc difTolved in fpirit of nitre changes the red
of cochineal to a llatey violet-colour.
The fait of lead, ufed inrtead of cream of tartar,
makes a liUc fomewhat faded j a proof that fome
portion-
THE dyer's assistant. 115^
portion of lead is joined to the colour of the cochi-
neal.
Vitriolated tartar made with pot-afh and vitriol
dertroys its red, and there only remains an agath
grey.
Dif.'Yiuth diflblved in fpirit of nitre, weakened by
an equal part of common water, and poured on the
liquor of cochineal, gives the cloth a dove-grey,
very beautiful and very bright.
A folution of copper in fpirit of nitre not weak-
ened, gives to the cocliineal a dirty crimfon,
Cupullated filver, a cinnamon colour, a little on .
the brown.
Arfenic added to the liquor of cochineal, gives a
brighter cinna;non than the preceding.
Gold diffolved in aqua regia gave a flreaked
chefnut, which made the cloth appear as it it had
betn manufaf^ured with wool of different colours.
Mercury diflolved with fpirit of nitre, produces
pretty near the fame effed.
Glauber's falts alone deftroys the red, like the
vitriolated tartar, and produces like that an agath
grey, but not of the good dye ; becaufe this fait
ealily diffolvcs even in cold v/ater, and befides it
calcines in the air.
The fixed fait of urine gives a cinder-grey co*
lour, where nor the leaft tindlurc of red is per-
ceived, and like the foregoing is not of a good dye^
for it is a fait that cannot form a folid cement iu
the pores of the wool, as it is folubk by the moii^ure^
of the air.
Violet without Blue,
Laftly, the extra£l of bufmuth changes the cochi-
neal red to a purple, almoft violet, as beautiful as
if this red had been put on a cloth that had beei^
previoully dyed of a Iky- blue.
Il6 THE dyer's assistant.
From thefe experiments it is evident, that the
falls and metallic folutions yield particles which
unite themfelves with the particles of the colouring
ingredients ufed in dying, and which faits and par-
ticles contribute greatly to the tenacity of colours.
Before I finifh this chapter on fcarlet, I mufl add
fome obfervations which perhaps the reader may be
glad to know.
Neither the mud of the ftreets nor feveral acrid
matters can ftain fcarlet, if the fpotted part is im-
mediately wafhed with plain clean water and a
clean cloth j but if the mud has had time to dry,
then the fpot appears of a violet black ; this cannot
be taken off but by a vegetable acid, fuch as vine-
gar, lemon-juice, or a warm folution of white tar-
tar flightly loaded with falts ; but if thefe acids are
not made ufe of with precaution and /kill in taking
off" the black fpot, a yellow one will fucceed ; be-
caufe, as has been faid before, the acids roufe and
even deflroy the red of the cochineal.
But there are fome for which the colour muH be
difcharged, and the ftuff dyed again. There are
other falts, befides alkalis which will difcharge the
colour of fcarlet ; for if a piece of fcarlet cloth be.
put into the water of preparation for that colour, it
will lofe a great part of its colour, infomuch, that if
it w'as fewed with two or three pieces of white cloth,
it would be difficult after one hour's boiling to dif-
tinguifh which was the fcarlet from the otl.ers ; but
if it was boiled afrefh in a liquor, of cochineal or in
the reddening, it would regain its firff colour.
Scarlets always lofe {ovnc part of their brightncfs
in the drelHng, for the drefling lays the hair,
and forces the fibres to be almoft parallel to the
web. In this cafe the cloth has numerically lefs
furface, and confequently lefs rays of light are re-
fleded from it. Befides the exiremity of the hair
is
THE dyer's assistant. II 7
is always moft penetrated with the dye which caufes
the bright'^.efs, and when it is laid on the cloth, the
greateft part of thefe points appear no more.
c
C H A p. X[.
OF CRIMSON.
RLVISON, as I have already obferved, is the
natural colour of th= cochineal, or rather,
that which it gives to wool boiled with aivrn and
tartar, which is the ufual water of preparation for
all colours. This is the method which is com-
monly pradifed for fpun wool ; it is almoft the
fame for cloths, as will be feen hereafter.
For each pound of wool, two ounces and a half
of alum, and an ounce and a half of white tartar,
are put into the copper. When the whole boils, the
wool is put in, well ftirred, and left to boil ^or ^wo
hours ; it is afterwards taken out, flightly wrung,
put into a bag, and left thus with its water, as for
ihe fcarlet in grain, and for all other colours.
For the dye a freHi liquor is made, in which
three- fourtlis of an ounce of cochineal is added for
each pound of wool. When the liquor is little
more than luke-warm, the cochineal is put in, and
when it begins to boil, the wool is caft in, which
h to be well ftirred with fticks ; it is to remain
thus for an hour j when taken out, wrung and
wafhed.
If degrees of (hades are required, (whofe names
are merely arbitrary) proceed, as has been already
related for the fcarlet, ufing but half the cochineal
at firft, and beginning with the lighteft.
The
Il8 THE dyer's assistant.
TliC besuty of crimfon ccnRfts in its bordering
-as much as pcffible on the grifdelin, a colour be-
tween a grey and a violet, I made feveral trials to
bring criir.fon to a b.igher perfection than moft
X)yers have hitherto done, and indeed I fucceeded
fo as to mske it as fine as the falfe crimfon, which is
-always brighter than the fine.
This is the principle on which I worked. As
all alkalis fsdden cochineal, I tried foap, barilla,
pot-afb, pearl afiies ; all thefe falts brought the
crimfon to rhe fhade I wanted, but at the fame
time, they ttrnifhed and dirniniflied its brightnefs.
I then betliou^ht myfelf to make ufe of volatile
alkalis, and I found thst the volatile fpirit of fait
ammoniac produced a ver}' good efFe£l ; but this
fpirit inftantly evaporated, and a pretty confiderable
quantity was ufed in the liquor, which greatly aug-
mented the pri:e of the dye.
I then had recourfe to another expedient vrhich
fucceeded better, the ex pence of which is trifling.
This was to make the volatile alkali of the fait am-
moniac enter into the liquor, at the very inflant
that it comes out of its bafis ; and to efteci this,
after my crimfon was made after the ufual manner,
I pafied through a freJh liqucr, in which 1 had dif-
folved a little of the fait aTimoniac, As foon as
the liquor was a little tnore than luke-warm, I
flung in as much pot-sfh as I had before of fait
ammoniac, and my wool immediately took a very
brilliant colcur.
This method even fpares the cochineal ; fcr this
new liquor makes it rife, and then lefs may be
ufed than in the common procefs ; but the greateft
pirt of Dyers, even the moil eminent, fadden their
crlmfons with archil, a drug of the fa'.fe dye.
\'ery beautiful crimfons are alfo made by boiling
the wool as for the common fcarlet, a.nd then boil-
ing
THE dyer's assistant, H^
It In a fecond liquor, whith two ounces of alutn
and one ounce of tartar, for each pound of wool,
leaviDg it one hour in the hquor. A frelh liquor is
then prep-red, in which fix drachms of cochineal is
put for every pound ■:>( wool. After it has re-
mained an hour in this liquor, it is taken out, and
paflec) imintdjately tarough a liquor of barilla and
ialt ammoniav. By this method, gradations of very
be uiiful crimfon ftiades are made by diminilhing
the quantity or the cochineal. It is to be obferved,
that in this procefs there are but fix drachms of
cochineal to dy each pound of wool, becaufe in
the firft liquor a drachm and a halt of coch'tieal is
■ufed tor each pound. It is alfo neceflaty to remark,
that, to fadden thefe crimfons, the liquor of the
alkaline fait and fait ammoi.iac be not made too
hot, becaufe the feparation of the volatile fpirit of
this la it fait would be too quick, and the cryrtal of
tartar of the iirft liquor would lofe its proper efFedt
by being changed, as I have already faid into a
foluble tartar.
The fame operation may be done by ufing one
part of the cochineal fylveftre inflead of the fine
cochineal, and the colour is not lefs beautifol, for
commonly four parts of fylveflre have not more
effect in dying than one part of fine cochineal.
The fylvefire may alfo be ufed in dying fcarlet,
but with great precaution ; it fliould only be ufed
in baftard fcariets and half crimfons. I (hall fpeak
of this when I treat of thefe colours in particular.
When a fcarlet is fpotted or fpoiled in the ope-
ration by fome unforefeen accident, or even when
the dye has failed, the common remedy is to make
it a crimfon, and for that purpofe, it is dipt in a
Jiquor where about two pounds of alum are added
for each hundred weight of wool. It is imme-
diately
120 THE dyer's ASSISTANT.
diately plunged in this liquor, and left there until it
has acquired the (hade of the crimfon defired.
Languedoc Crimfon,
I fliall now fhow the method they follow in Lan-
guedoc to make a very beautiful fort of crimfon,
or the cloths exported to the Levant, but which
is not fo much faddened as that which I have juft
fpoken of, and which refembles much more the
Venetian fcarlet. For five pieces of cloth the
-hquor io prepared as ufual, putting bran if necefl'ary.
When it is more than lukewarm, ten pounds of
fea-falt are put, inftead of cryftal of tartar, and
when it is ready to boil, twenty-feven pounds of
the fcarlet cumpofition, made after the manner of
carcafline already defcribed, are poured in, and
without adding cochineal the cloth is paffed through
this liquor for tv^o hours, keeping it always turn-
ing with the wynch, and continually boiling. It is
afterwards taken out, aired and wafhed ; then a
frefh liquor is made, with eight pounds and three
quarters of cochineal powdered and fifted, and
when it is ready to boil, twenty-one pounds of
compofition are added ; the cloth is boiled for three
quarters of an hour with the common precautions,
after which it is taken out, aired and waflied : It
is of a very fine crimfon, but very little faddened ;
if it is required to be more faddened, a greater
quantity of alum is put into the firft liquor of pre-
paration, and in the fecond lefs of the compofition,
the fea-falt is alfo added to this fecond liquor; a
little pravSlice in this method will foon teach the
Dyer to make all the ftiades that can properly be
derived from crimfon.,
Whenever cochineal has been ufed, there is
found at the bottom of the reddening liquor a
quantity
THE DVER S ASSISTANT. 121
quantity of very brown fediment, wl^'ch Is flung
away with the liquor as ufelefs. I examined it
and ound, that the liquor for the reddening of
fcarlct contained a precipitated calx of tin : I
united tb.is metal with a great deal of trouble; the
remaining parts of this fediment are the drofs of
the white tartar, or of the cream of tartar, united
with the grofs parts of the bodies of the cochineal,
which is, as has already been faid, a finall infe61.
I walhed thofe little animal parts in cold water,
and, by fhaking this water, I colled^ed, with a
Imnll fieve, what the agitation caufed to rife on the
furface.
At'ter this manner I feparated tliefe light parts
from tl-e earthy and metallic; I dried tliem fepj-
rately, then levigited them with equal weight of
frefh cryftal of tartar ; I boiled a portion with a
little alum, and put in a pattern of white cloth,
which boiled for three quarters of an hour, at the
end of which it was dyed of a very beauniu! crim-
fon.
This experirrent having convinced me, that by
powdering and fiftmg the cochineal as is commnnly
pra'difed, all the profit that might be extiaded
from this dear drug is not obtained, i thouc/ht
propf^r to communicate this difccvery to the Dyers,
that they might avail thcmfelves of it by the me-
thod following.
Take one ounce of cochineal powdered and
fifted as ufual ; mix with it a quarter of its weight
of very white cream of tartar very cryllalline a'nd
very airy ; put the whule en a hard levigating
flone, and levigate this mixture till it is reduced
to an impalpabh powder; make ufe of this cociii-
mal thus preparec. in the liquor, and in the redden-
ing, fubtrsfting frcm the crejm of tartar, which is
to be ufed in the liquor, \h.Q fmall quantity before
^^ ufed
122 THE dyer's ASSISTANT.
ufed with the cochineal. What is put to the red-
dening, although mixed with a fourth of the fame
fait, does not prejudice its colour, it even appeared
to me that it was more folid. Thofe that will fol-
low this method will find that there is about a
fourth naore profit to be obtained by it.
The Natural Crmfon in Grain.
In proportion for every pound of cloth or other
things, take two ounces of tartar pure, and two
ounces of alum ; boil them with the goods an
hour and a half; then rince the goods very well
from the boiling. The kettle muft be filled again
with clear water and a few handfuls of bran put in,
in order to take out the filth of the water, as well
as to foften it. Scum the fcurf off when it begins
to boil, and put in an »unce of well powdered
grain, with one dram of red arfenic and onefpoon-
ful of burnt wine lees ; this gives a pretty luflre ;
then wafli and rince it well, and you have a moft
beautiful colour.
CHAP. XII.
SCARLET OF GUM-LACQUE.
THE red part of the gum-lacque -may be alfo
ufed for the dying of fcarlet, and if this fear-
let has not all the brightnefs of that made of fine
cochineal alone, it has the advantage of being more
lading.
The gum-lacque, which is in branches or fmall
fticks and full of animal parts, is the fitteft for dy-
ingo
THE dyer's ASSrsTAN'T. I23
I'ng. It muft be red within, and its cxlernal parts
of a blackifti brown ; it appears, by a particular
examination made of it by M. Geoffrey fome years
fince, that it is a fort of hive, fomewhat like that
of bees, wafps, &c.
Some Dyers make ufe of it powdered snd tied
in a linen bag; but this is a bad method, for ihere
always paffes throui2;h the cloth fome refi.o'is por-
tion of the gum, which melts in the boiling water
of the copper, and flicks to the cloth, where it be-
comes fo ad;-,erent wiien cold, that it mud be
fcraped off with a knife.
Others reduce it to powder, boil it in water, and
after it has given ail its colour, let it cool, and the
refinous parts fall to the bottom. The water is
poured out, and evaporated by the air, vdiere it of-
ten becomes fliriking, and wlien it has acquired t!;e
confiftence of thick honey, it is put up into voffels
for ufe. Under this form it is pretty c'ifikult jUilly
to determine the quantity that is ufed; tl is induced
me to feek the means of obtaining this tinfiure fe-
parated from its refinous gu;», without being
obliged to evaporate Co great a qu3ntity of water to
have it dry, and to reduce it to powder.
I tried it with weak iime water, with a decc6^ion
of the heart of agaric, w'ith a decoclion of com-
frey-foot, recommended in an. ancient book of
phyfic; in all thefe the water leaves a part of the
dye, and it ilill pafles too full of colour, and it
ought to be evaporated to get all tl'.e dye; this
evaporation I wanted to avoid, therefore 1 made
ufe of mucilaginous or llimy roots, which, of thetn-
felves gave no colour, but whofe mucilage might
retain the colouring pnrts, fo that ttiey might re-
main with it on the fil^^er.
The great comfrey-root has, as yet, the bell
anfwcred my intention : 1 ufe it dry and in a grofs
■F 2 powder,
124- THE DVER S AiSI^TAKT.
powder, putting half a dram to each quart of wa-
ter, which is boiled a quarter of 311 hour, pafTin^
it through a hair lleve. It immediately extracts
from it a beautitu! crimfon tinclure; put the vefTel
to (i\2t(\ in a nioderate heat for twelve hours, (bak-
ing it feven or eight tirres to mix it with tiie gum
that remains at the bottom, then pour eft the wa-
ter that is loaded with colour in a \t{U:l fufficientJv
large, that three-fourths may remain empty, and
nil it v\ith cold water : then pour a very Imail
quantity of f^rorg fclutio:^. ct R.oman alum on the
tincture; the mucilagincu? or llimy dye precipitates
3!l"e!f, and if the W2ttr which appears on the top ap-
pears ftiil coloured, add Tome drops of the folutioa
of alum to finifh the precipitation, and this re-
peat till the water becoir.cs as clezr as common
water.
When the crifr<fon muciiage or llime is all funk
to the bottom of tl^.e vciTel, draw cff the clear
water, and filter the remainder i alter v.hich, dry
it in the fun.
If the firfl: miucilsginous water has not extracted
ail the colour of the gum-lacque, (which is known
by the'remaining being of a weak ilraw colour) repeat
the operation until ycu feparate ail the dye the
gum-lacque can lurnilh ; and as it is reduced to
powder wh.en dry, the quantity to be ufed in the
dye is more exacily afcertained than by evaporat-
ing it to the confiftence of an extract.
Good gum-]a:que, picked from its iticks, yields,
dried and powdered, but little more dye than one-
fifth of its weight. Thus at the price it bear^ at
prefci.i, there is not (o great an advantage as 11. any
may imajiine in ufing it in the place of cochineal ;
but to make t'r.e fcarler colour more lailing than it
commonly is, it may be uied in the firft liquor or
preparation, and ccchineal for reddening.
If
THE dyer's assistant. 125
If fcarlet is made of gum-lacque, extra£teJ ac-
cording to the method here taught, and reduced
to poAYler, a caution is to be taken in diflulving it,
which is ufelefs when cochineal is ufed ; tiut is, if
it was put into the liquor ready to boil, the Dyer
would lofe three quarters of an hour, before it
would be diflMved entirely; therefore for defpntch,
put the dofe or this dry tindlure into a large canhen
veflel, or into one of tin, pour war;Ti v.atcr on ir^
and wlien it is well moiilened, add tlie necefiary
6o{e of the compofition tor fcarlet, ftirrip.g the
mixture v\e!l with a glafs peAle. Tlii* powder,
which was of a dirty deep purple, as it diiToIves
takes fire- coloured red extremely tri^:..! ; pcuT
the dilTolution into the liqut-r, in which was pre-
vioufly put the cryfial of tartar, and as foon as this
liqu'-r begins to boil, dip the cloth in, keeping it
continually turning. The remaining part of the
operation is the fame as that of fcarlet with cochi-
neal : the extract of gum-lacque, pr-.-pared Accord-
ing to my method, yields about one-id, uh more of
dye than cochines!,at leaft than that \\hich 1 made
life of for this comparifon.
If inAead of the cryftal of tartar and the com^
pofition of fome fixt alkaline fait or lime water is fub-
ftituted, the bright red of the gum-lacque is
changed into the colour of lees of wine, fo that
this dye docs not fadden h eafily as that of
cochineal.
If inftcad of thefe alteratives, fait ammoniac is
ufed by i'fcif, cinnamon or clear chtfiut colours
are obfained, and that according as tiiere is more
or lefs of this fait. I have made twenty other ex-
periments on this drug, which I fliall not relate
Jiere, becaufe they produced none but common
colours, and whicli may ht eafier had fro:i) ingre-
dients of a lower price. My experiaients were
F 3 with
125 THE dyer's assistant.
with a view of improving the red of the lacque,
and the meihcd I l.ave here laid co'An to extra<5t
its colouring parts anfwers extremely well ; tlie
more in^re.iients that are difcovered for fcarlet, the
lefs will be the coft ; for, although thefe experi-
ments made on cochineal, lacque, and other drugs,
n-isy appear ufeiels to fome Dyers, they will not be
10 to others who ftudy to improve this art*.
CHAP. XIII.
Ct THE COCCUS POLOXICUS, A COLOURING INSECT.
/■ I ^HE coccus pokniius is a little round infect,
% fcmcwhat lefs than a coriander feed j it is
found flicking to tlie roots of the pclygonum cccci-
ferum ivccnam fiore majore perenni of Ray, and
which aI. Tournefort has named alchymiiii gra-
Tvinco fciis rnajore f,ore. According to A'l. Brevn,
it abounds in the palatinate of Kicvia, bordering
the Ukran.a, towaulsthe towns of Ludncw, Piatka,
Stcbd\ztze, and ether fandy places of Lkraniaand
roGcha, of Volhinia, of the grand duchy of Li-
thuania, ir.d even in Pruilia, towards Thorn.
Thofe that gather them fay, that imirediately
nftcr the fummer fo'ftice the coccus is ripe, and
full of iis purple juice. They ho:d in their hand
a {lvzW hollow fliade, made in the {^lape of a Pnep-
herd's crook, which has a ftiort handle. With
0!ie hand ihcy hold the plant, railing it out of the
grcund with the other, armed with this inftrumer.t;
they tl.en ihake cif thefe little infecls, and place the
plant in the fauie hole in order to preferve it.
Having
• The cclojrng parts of the gntn-lacqce may be e>:!rafled by
cominor. r.vtr water, by ir.akir.g it a lit;;.- more than la!:s-warm,
and inclcErs the pcwdcr^d l&cqae in a coa?fe wcoUsobsg.
THE dyer's assistant. 12/
Having feparatcd the coccus from the earth,
which they do by a riddle made for that purpofe,.
their chief care is, that it fnould not change into
a fmaii worm ; tor this purpofe they fprinkle it
with vinegar, and fometimes with very cold wa-
ter ; they then brinst them to a warm place, or
elfe expofe them to the fun to dry j without thi^,
thefe inieils would dcftroy thsmfelves, and if they
were dryed too precipitately, they would lofe their
beautiful colour. Sometimes they feparate tiicfc
fmall infe£^s from their veficles or bladders with
the ends of their fingers by a gentle preflbre, whicii
they form into final! round cakes. The Dyers pay
dearer for this dye when in lump than wi^en it is
in grain.
Bernard de Bernitz, from whofe book I have
taken this, adds, that the great marechal Konitf-
poliki, and fome other Pohfli noblemen, who had
lands in the Ukrania, fet this gathering of the coc-
cus to the Jews at a confiderable profit, and caufed
it to be gathered by their vafi^ls ; that the Turks
and Arminians, who bought this drug of the Jews,
vfed it tor the dying of wool, fiik, the manes and
tails of their horfes ; that the Turki(h womerv
made ufe of it to paint their fingers' ends of a
beautiful carnation colour ; and that formerly the
Dutch ufed to buy the coccus at a high price, and
mixed it with an equal quantity of cochineal ; that
with the dye of this infed and chalk, a lacque for
the painters might be made as fine as the Florence
lacque ; and that a beautiful red W'as prepared
from it for the toilet of the ladies in Fraiice and
Spain.
F 4 ^ CHAF.
128 THE dyer's assistant,
CHAP. IV.
0? THE RED CF MADDER.
THE root cf madder is the only part cf this
_^ plant which is uTed in dying. Of all the
rers this is the moil laHine, v.hen it is put on a
cloth 1. r Auft that is thcrcughly fc-ured, then pre-
pared with the falts with which it is to be boiled
two or three hours, without which, this red, fo
tenacious after the preparation of the fubjecl,
would fcarceiy relift inore the proofs of tl.e reds
than any other i gredients of the tdlfe dye. This
is a proof ti.at the pores cf the fibres of the wool
ouglit not orJy to be w.U fcoureu from the yolk
or un^^uous trsnfpiration ot the animal, wnich
iTiay have re;T)ained, notwithftanding the fcouring
of tiie wool after the comm.-.n manner with water
and urine ; bu: it is alfo necefiary, that thefe fame
pores be plaillered inwardly \Mth fotne of thofe
falts which are called hard, hecaufe they do not
calcine in the air, and cannot be dilTjlved by rain
wattr, or by the moiAure or the air in rainy
weather. Such is, as has been faid before, the
white trude t-rtar, the red and the cryftal of tartar,
ot w'nich, according to common cuftom, about a
fourth is put into the preparing liquor, with two-
ihirds or three- fourths of alum.
The beft madder roots come ^nerally from
Zealand, where this plant is cultivated in the illands
of Ter{^:e«, Zerzee, Sommerdyke, and Thoo'en.
That from tiie tiiH of thefe iflands is elteeined the
beft; the foil is ciay, fat, and fomewhat fait. The
lands that are deemed the bed for the cultivation
of this p'ant are new lands, that only ferved for
pailure, which are always ftefhtr and moifter than
cihers. The Zealar.dcrs are beholden to the re-
fugees
thj: dyer's assistant. 129
/"ugees of Flanders for the cultivation and great
commerce o( this root.
It is known in trade and dying under the names
of grape- madJerj bunch madder, &c. It is how-
ever the fame root ; ail the difference in regard to
its quality is, that the one kind contains pith and
roof, and the other has the fmall fibres from its
principal root adhering to it.
Both are prepared by the fame work, which I
(hall not relate the particulars of here, as it would
only ferve to lengthen this treatife to no purpofe.
They chooie the fineli roots for the fiift fort,
drying them with care, grinding them and feparat-
ing the rind at the mill, and prefcrving the middle
of the root ground in hogfheads, where it remains
for two or three years ; for after this time, it is
belter for dying than it would have been coming
from the mill ; for if madder was not kept clofe
after this manner, the air would fpoil it, and the
colour would be lefs bright. It is at fird yellow,
but it reddens and grows brown by age ; the hcf\
is of a fafFron colour, in hard lumps, of a ftrong
fmell, and yet not difagree.ible. It is alia culti-
vated about Lifle in Flanders, and feveral other
places of the kingdom, where it v/as found to
grow fpontaneouily.
The madders which are made ufe of in the Le=
vant and in India, for the dying of cottons, are
fomewhat different from the kinds ufed in Europe,-
it is named chat on the coail of Coroinandel. This'
plant thus caiied, grows abundantly in the woods'
on the coaft of Malabar, and this ch:dt is the wilcF
fort. The cultivated comes from Vafur and 'Fuc-
corin, and the mofl efteemed of all is the chat of
Perfia, named dtwias.
They alfo gather on the coaft of CoromaiJel
the root of another plant called ra^ de chaye, or
F 5 root
13^ THE DYZR's assist AKT.
root cf colcur, srid which was thought to be a
kind of ruh':a tinSiirum, but is the root of a kind
oi gallium fijre albo.^ as it appeared by obfervations
fent from India in 1748. It has a Icng (lender root,
U'liich dyes cotton of a tolerable handrcme red,
when it has received all the preparations previous
to the dye.
At Kurder, in the neighbourhood of Smyrna,
and in the countries of AkilTar and of Yordas, they
cultivate another kind of madder, which is called
in tlie country ckioc-lsya ek'im kaz^'.a. This of all
the madders is the befl: for the red dye, by the
proofs that have been made of it, and tar mere
efteemed in the Levant than the nneft Zealand
madder the Dutch bring there. This madder fo
much valued is called by the modern Greeks lizari,
and by the Arabs /ij/'m *.
There is another kind of msdder in Canada
called iYjTa-voyana. It is a very fmall roDt, which
produces pretty near the fame effect as our Euro-
pean madder.
The water of preparation f-Dr madder red :.
pretty near the fame as for kerme?, that is cctn-
pofed of alum and tartar. The Dyers do not agree
as to the proportions ; but the beft appears to be
four ounces of alum and one of red tartar to eacH-
pound of fpun wool, and about one- tVrelith part of
four wate.'", and let the wool boil in it for two
hours. If it is fpun wool, leave it for feven or
eight days, that it may be well moiilened by ths
diflblution of thefe faits j and if it is cloth, finilh it
the fourth day.
To dye wool with madder, prepare a freia li-
quor, and when the water is come to a heat to bear
the
♦ Thefe kinds of inadders give brighrer red; than tfae fceft
grape nsadcer of Zealand, for tisev are dyed in the air aiw noi ia
a ftovs. The msdder of Lanjue-cc, even that of Poitcu. fuc-
cceds 33 well as that of iLzari, ^en it is dri'id without £:c.
THE dyer's assistant. I3I
the hand, put in half a pound of the finefl: grape
madder for each pound of wool ; let it be well
raked and mixed in the copper before the wool
goes in,, keep the wool in an hour, during which
time it muft not boil *. Shades from madder are
obtained after the manner laid down for other co-
lours, but thefe Ihades are little ufed, except in a
mixture of feveral colours.
When feveral pieces of cloth are to be dyed at
once in madder red, the operation is the fame,
only augmenting the ingredients in proportion -,
and let it be remarked that in fmall operations the
quantity of ingredients muft be fomewhat greater
than in great, not only in madder red> but in all
other colours.
Thefe reds are never fo beautiful as thofe of the-
kermes, and much lefs io than thofe of the lacque
or cochineal, but they cofl lefs, and are made ufe-
of for common fiufFs whofe low prices would not
allow a dearer dye. Moft of the reds fur the army
are of madder, faddened with archil or brazil,
(though thefe drugs be of the fafe dye) to make
them finer, and more on the velvet, which perfec-
tion -could not be procured to them even with-
cochineal, without confiderably augmenting the
price.
I have already faid that madder put on fluffs not
being prepared to receive it by the alum and tar-
tar-water, did in fact give its red colour, but that
which it dyed was blotted and net lairing, it is.
therefore the faitsthat fecure the dye; this is com-
mon to all other colours red or yellow, which can-
not be made without a preparing liquor. Now tbs
qucftion is, whether t^.ef€ a£t by taking off the re*
mams of the oily and fat traniplration of the Caeep^^,
F 6 ct;
* If madder is bollec', its rid becomes obfcure, and cf a bv.ck.
cobur.
132. THE DVEH's ASilSTAMT.
or whether thst of the two falts, particuisriy that
which even cannot be carried by iuke-warm wa-
ter, remains tocatch, feiz.- and cement the colour-
ing atone-, openea or dilated by the heat of water to
receive it, and contrai^ted by the cold to retain it.
To determine which, ufe any alkaline fairs, fuch
as pctalTi, the clarified lays of oak-afhes, or any
other pure lixivial fait inftead of alum and tartar,
put in a due proportion fo as not to dilTolve ths
woo!, and afcerwards dip the fluff in madder li-
quor. This ftuff will come out coloured, but will
not hft, even boiling water will carry off three-
fourths of the colour. Now it cannot be faid that
a lixed alkaline fait is unfit to extract from tlie
pores of the wool the yolk or fat of the (heep,
fince lixivijl falts are ufed with fuccefs in feveral
cafes, to take the greafe cut of tluffs of what kind
foever they be, vi'hich water alone could not take off.
It is alfo well kr.own, that with fats foreign to tiie
i^uff, and an a.kaline fait, a kind of foap is formed
which water eafily carries off.
Again, take a piece of ftuff dyed in madder red,
according; to the ufual method, boil it fome time
in a folution of fixv alkaline falts, a fmall quantity
v/ill alfo deftroy the colour, for the fixt alkali, at-
tacking the fmall atoms of the cryftal of ^artar or
crude tartar, which lines the pores of the woo),
forms a foluble tartar, which water difiblves very
eafily, and confequently the pores being opened in
the hot vk'ater of the experiment, the col curing
atom cam.e out with the faline atom that fheathed it.
This fluff being wadied in water, the remain-
ing red colour is diluted, and a colour half browrt
snd half dirty remains. If, infiead of an alkaline
fait, foap is fuhfiituted, (which is an akaline fair,
mitigated by oil) and another piece of cioth dyed
alfo in madder, be boiled for a few minutes, the
red
THE DYERS ASSISTANT. I 33
red will become finer, becaufe the alkali whicli is
in the foap being ftieathed with oil, it could not at-
tack the vesetable acid, and the boiling on'y car-
ried off the colouring parts ill ftuck together, and
their numbers diminilhing, what remains muft ap-
pear deeper or clearer.
1 mull aiib add, for further proof of the aflual
exiilerice of falts in the. pores of a fluff prepared
with alum and tartar, betorc dying it with madder,
that more or lefs tartar gives an infinite variety of
iliades with this root only ; for if the quantity of
alum be diirunifhed, and thst of the tartar aug-
mented, a cinnamon will be had, and ev? n if no-
thing but tartar alone be put into the liquor, the
red is loft, and a dt-ep cinnamon or brown-root
colour is obtained, though of a very good dye ;
for the crude tartar, which is an acid fait, has fo
much diff^lved the part which rtiould have pro-
duced the red colour, that there onlv remained a
very finall quantity, with the ligneous fibres of the
root, which, like all other common roots, does then
yield but a brown colour, more or lefs deep accord-
ing to the quantity ufed. I have already proved
that the acid which brightens the red, diffolves
them if too much is ufed, and divides them into
particles fo extremely minute, that they are not
perceptible.
If in the place of tartar, any fait which is eafily
diffolved be put will- rhe alum in the liquor, to
prepare the fluff for the madder dye, fuch as fait
petre, the greater part of the maddtir red becomes
ufelefs, it difappears, or does not ftick on, and
nothing is got but a very bright cinnamon, which
will not fufficicntly fland the proof, becaufe the
two falts ufed in the preparing liquor are not of
the harcinefs of the tartar.
Velatile
I.34- THE DYER S ASSISTANT.
Volatile urinous alkalis which are obtained from
certain plants, fuch as the perllla, the archil of the
Canaries, and other nr>oiTes or lichens, deftroy alfo
the madder red, but at the fame time communicate
anotlier to it, for on experiment, madder prepared
after the manner of archil with fermented urme and
quick lime, produced only nut colours, but whicli
neverthelefs are lairing; becaufe there entered into
the liquor only the little portion of urinous volatile
that moiftened the madder which the boiling was
fufScient ro evaporate, ana tefides, the cloth was
fufficientiy furnifned with the falts of the liquor
made as ufual, to retain the colouring parts of the
dye.
When a pure red, that for cochineal an exam-
ple, is l:id upon a c'.oth firft dyed in blue, and af-
terwards prepared with the liquor of tartar, and
alum to receive and retain this red, a purple cr vio-
let is produced according to the quantity of blue cy
red. The no of madder has not this efie(5l, for it
is not a pure red like that of the cochineal, and a»
I faid above, it is altered by the brown ligneous
fibres of its root, and makes on the blue a cHefnat
colour, more or lefs deep according to the preced-
ing:, i:uenfity of the blue lirft laid on. If this chef-
Fiut colour is wanted to have purple cau, a little
cochineal muft be added.
In order to avoid this brown of the root, the
Dyers who make the beft reds of madder take great
heed t.^ ufe the liquor of madder a little mere tiian
lukewarm J the madder tarnifhes confiderably by
the heat of the vsater, extracting tlie particles which
dye brown, and unite themfeives with the red.
This inconveniency might be remedied, if at tlie
tinrie that the madder root is frefh a means cOuJd
be found to feparate from tl>e reft of this root the
led circle which is underneath its brown pelicle,
and
THE dyer's assistant. I J9
and which furrounds the middle pith ; but this
^vork would augment its price, and even then it
would not afford fo good a red as cochineal. How-
ever, it might be attempted to dye cottons red,
whofe price might bear the expences of this pre-
paration.
Madder being of all ingredients the cheapeft of
any that dye red and of the good dye, it is mixt
with others to diminifh the price. It is with mad-
der and kermes that the bailard fcarlets of grain
are dyed, othcrwife called half- grain fcarlets, ;ind
with inadder and cochineal the half-common fcar-
lets, and the half-crimfons are made.
To make the half- grain fcarlet, the water of
preparation, and all the reft of the operation is to
be performed after the fame manner as fcarlet
made of the grain of kt-rmes, or the common Vene-
tian, only the fecond liquor is compcfed of halt
kermes and half grape madder.
For the half-fcarlet and flame-colour, the cona-
poUtion and preparation is as ufual, nothing but
pure cochineal being put in, but in the reddening,
half cochineal and half madder is ufed : here al fo
the fylveftre may be made ufe of, for alter having
made the preparation with cochineal, for redden-
ing, ufe half a pound of cochineal, a pound and 3
half of fylveftre, and one pound of madder infiead
of cochineal alone,
That the wool and fluffs may be dyed as equally
as poffible, it is necefTary that the two kinds of co-
chineal be well rubbed or lifted, as alfo the madder,
with which they muft be well incorporated before
ihey are put into the liquor. This mufl be ob-
fcrved in all colours where feveral ingredients are
rnixt together. I his half fcarlet is finifhed like
the common fcarlet, and it may be faddened after
the
136 THE DY£R's assistant.
the fame manner, either with boiling v/ater or
alum.
The balf-criinfon is made like the common
crimfon, only ufing half madder, and half cochin-
eal, the cochineal fyiveilre tray be ufed here alfo,
obferving only to retrench half of the common
cochineal, and to replace it with three times as
much of the fylvcftre. U a p;reater quantity of the
fylveftre was ufed, and more of the otiiei taken off,
the colour would not be fo fine. Various (hades
may be produced by augmenting or IfiTening the
' madder or cochineal.
Purple with Madder wit I out Blue.
I fliall finilh this cliapter with an experiment
•jvhich afforded a pretty fine purple without cochin-
eal, or without the cloth being firft dyed blue. I
boiled a piece of cloth weighing half an ounce, with
ten grains of Roman a'utn, and fix grains of cry-
iial of tartar ; hair an hour after, I took it out,
Wrung it, and let it cool ; then added to the fime
liquor twenty-four grains of grape madder; after
it hatl furnifiied its dye to this liquor, fiill im-
pregnated witli fait?, 1 dropt in twenty-fcur drop?
of a folution of bifnfVJth, iriade with equalpans of
water and fpirit ot nitre, and then dipt my cloth
again. Hnlf an hour af;er, T took rt out, wrung
and wnfhed it; it was alnioft as fin"e a crimuni as
if it had been done vinh. cochineal, it had even a
fufficient ground to have remained in that fiate.
I dipt it again in the fame liquor, and boiled it
for a quarter of an hcur, it cartre out a pretty
brig^ht purple ; this purple, tried by tlie proof of a-
lum, rf^ufesand embelliAies itfelf, and by the proof
of foap it remained of a much finer red than the
common reds of madder.
If
THE dyer's assistant. J 37
If the doth be kept for feveral days moidened in
its liquor of tartar and alum, and afterwards dyed
in frefh madder liquor, plain and without falts,
according to the common method, till it has ta-
ken a bright cinnamon colour, and to this liquor
be added the fame folution of bifmuth, a chefnut
colour, and no purple will be obtained. This
Ihows what exadtn.efs is required in defcribing the
procefles of dying, for want of which, all books
hitherto publifhed on this art have been ufelefs, as
they ntglecled to point out the neccflary circum-
flan'-es tor the fuccefs of the d( fired colour.
In this fecond experi-rent, ths cloth did at fird
take too much falts, they remained top long in ir,
and there was none in the liquor of the dye ; for
want of alum the purple did not appear, becaufe
the white earth of this fait could not precipitate it-
M( with the diffolved pans of the bifmuth, which,
as has been faid in the chapter of the kermes, carry
with them the blue parss of the fmalt, which is
always found in the mine of bifmuth, and a portion
of which very probably unites itfelt to this half r«ietal
during the melting. TWis mutual precipitation is
performed in operation of dying, by the help of the
aftringent parts of the ligneous fibres of the mad-
der root.
CHAP. XV.
OF yr.LLJW,
"Ithrrto ten forts of drugs have been named
for dyinj yellow, but by the proofs that
)iave been made it is certain there are but five that
are fufficiently lafting to be ufed in the good dye.
Several more might be added to ihefe five, as yel-
lows
138 THE dyer's assistant.
lows are eaCly ohtslned. I fliall therefore firft
fpeak of thefe five, which are t*<e weld or wold,
favor}', green wood, the yellow wood, and the
fenugreek, beccule thtle only are of t! c good dye.
The three firft are very common plants in Europe^
the yeilovv wood comes from the Indies, and fenu-
gretk is found every wlicre. Weld is moft com-
lucnly ufed, as it gives the brighteil dye. I he
favciy ar.d the green weed are beit for v;ools that
are to be made gteens, becaufe their natural coljur
borders a little on the green ; the two others give
ihades of yellow fcmewhat different.
The yellows nicft known in the art of dying are
th.e Axaw yellow, the pale yellow, and the lemon
yellow. The orange yellows commonly made are
not fimple colours, theretore I Ihall not fpeak of
them here.
For dying yellow, the common preparing water
\&ith tartar and alum is ufed for wool or ftuffs, in
the proportion of four ounces of a!um for each
pound of wool, or twenty- five pountis for the
hundred, and one ounce of tartar, and the method
of boiling is tlie fame as before. For welding,
after the wool or Itufi" is boiled, put five or fix
pounds of weld in a frelh liquor for each pound of
f^uff ; let the weld be inclofed in a linen bag, that
it may not mix with the fluff, and that the bag
may not rife to the top of the copper, it mufl be
kept down with a heavy crofs of wood. Others
boil the weld till it has furniflied all its dye, and
finks itfelf to the bottom of the copper, at which
time they place on it a crofs or iron circle fitted
with a net of cords. Others take it out with a
rake when it is fufftciently boiled : fometimes yel-
low wood and other ingredients are mixed wi
the weld, according to the thade required, by aittr-
ijig the quantities and the proportions cf the lalts
ia
THE DYERS ASSISTANT. I39
in the preparation, and the time of boiling. I know
by*experience, that thefe Ihades may be obtained
ad infinitum. This proof I have had in the efiays
I made with the flower of the virga, a very great
acquifition in the art of dying, if this plant was
in^iproved, which may be eallly done, fince it
ihoots a great m^ny flems, and whofe fmall ones
may be eafily trasifplanted, and produce quantities
in the courfe of one year.
Light (hades of yellow are obtained in the fame
manner as ail others fpoken of, only the preparing
liquor for thefe hght yellows muft be weaker. I
recommend twelve pounds and a half of alum for
each hundred pounds of wool, and the tartar in
proportion j but thefe Hght ftiades do not refift the
proofs as deeper (hades ^o^ made with the full pro-
portion of tartar.
Some Dyers endeavouring to help this, leave
the wool and fluffs for a longer time in the dye,
becaufe they take it flower in proportion to the
weaknefs of the liquor ; but if they put at the fame
time in the colouring liquor, wools whofe prepara-
tion rtiall have been different, they fhall take at the
fame time different fhades. Thefe liquors more
or lefs ftrong are called half-preparing liquors, or
quarter- preparing liquors, and they make great
rife of them in light Ihades of wool dyed in the
fleece, that is, before being fpun, and which are
intended for the tnanufa^turing of cloths and other
mixed fluffs ; becaufe the more alum there is in
the liquor of the wool, the more it is harih and
difficult to fpin, and it muft fpi;i thicker, and con-
fequently the fluff is coarfer. This obfervation is
not of great coniequence for fpun wool which is
intended for tapeflry or for fluffs. I only mention
it to fliow that the quantity of ingredients may be
lurnetimes varied without danger.
The
140 THE DYER S ASSISTANT.
The 3eIlow weed is ufed in chips, or In cq^rfe
(havings; by this means it is moie divided, and
yi^ilds Its dye tlie better, and a lefs quantity will
do ; which way fccver it is ufed, it is put into a
bag, tiiat it may not mix with the wool or (iaffs.
The fame precaution is ne^eflary fir ihe favory
and green wood, when they are niixtid with ti.e
weid to cliange its fhade.
I refer to the leiTer dye the five other ingredients
hitherto known which dye yel ow, and fhali only
obferve here in regard to ti.e g:od dye, that the
root of the dock, the bark of the afh-trce, parti-
cularly that which is raifed after the firft fap, the
leaves of almond, peach and pear-trees; in Curr,
all leaves, bark?, and roots, which by chewing (how
fome little r.ftridVion, give yeilows of the good dye
rrore or lefs fine, according to the time they are
boiled, and in proportion to the tartar and alum
ufed in the liquor: a proper quantity of alum brings
thefe yellows to the beautiful yelioAv of the weld.
If the tartar is in greater qusntiiy, thtfe yellows
will border en the orange ; and laftly, if thcfe in-
gredients are too much boiled, let th m be roots,
barks, or leaves, the yellow obrcurcs itfelf, and
takes brown {hndcs.
Although fome Dyers ufe turmerac in the good
dye, which gives an orange yellow, this praciics
is to be condemned, for it is a colour that foon
pifTes in the air, uiilefs it be fecured by fca-falt,
which fome Dyers do, who take care to keep this
impofition to themfrlves. Thofe who nuke ufe of
it in common fcarlets, to fpare cochineal, and to
give to their ftuiF a red bordering on the orange,
are bhmeable, for the fcarlets that have been dyed
after this manner lofe in a fliort tire that bright
orange, as I have already faid, they brown con-
fiderably in the air. Yet thefe fa'fificaiicns are
obliged
THE dyer's assistant. I4I
obliged to be in fome meafure tolerated ; for at this
tiaie that bright orange being in faftiion, it would
be impcflible to give it to fcariet, without put-
ting a larger dofe of corr.poiition, whofe acids would
greatly liurt the cloth. The fullic wood is now
preferred in fcariet.
C H A P. XVI.
OF BROWN,
iROWN Is the fourth of the pri'nary colours.
_^ It is placed in this rank, becaufe it enters in
the compofition of a great number of colours.
The working it is different from others,' for com-
monly no preparation is given to wool to be dyed
brown, and, like the blue, it is only dipped in hot
water.
The rinds and roots of walnut, the rind of the
alder, fantal, fumach, roudoul or fovic, foot, &c.
are ufed in this dye.
The rind of the walnut is the green part that
covers the nut ; they are gathered when the nuts
are entirely ripe, then filled into great caflcs and
moiftened with water ; they are thus preferved
until tiie enfuing year, and longer if required.
The fantal or faundcrs is a hard wood brought
from the Indies ; it is commonly ufed ground to a
very fine powder, it is preferved for fome time in
this fiate in bags, to excite (as is imagined) a flight
fermentation, which they pretend makes it the
better for ufc, but I could find no difference.
This wood IS moft commonly ground with a
third pjft of cariatour wood, which foftens it ac-
cording to thofe who fell it. It is greatly inferior
to walnut rinds, for it hurts the wool by hardening
it
142 THE dyer's assistant.
it confiderably if ufed in large quantities, therefore
it is better not to ufe it for fine wools 2nd fluffs,
or at leaft to draw but the lighteft (hades, for then
its cffecft will be of lefs confequence. It is gene-
rally mixed with gal's, alder, bark, and fumach ; it
is only by this means that it gives its colour when
ufcf] alone, and unmixed with the cariatour wood.
It yields biit very lii'Lle Vvith the liquor cf alutn
and tartar unlcfs it he rafped. Nctwithftanding this
defe<£^, it is tolerated in the good dye, on account
of the folidity of its colour, which naturally is a
yellow-red-brown : it browns and grows deep in
the air, it lightens with foap, but I'ofes iefs by the
proof of alum, and ftill lefs by that of tartar.
Of all the ingredients ufe '! tor the brown dye,
the walnut rind is the beft ; its (hades are finer, its
colour is lafting, it foftens the wool, renders it of
a tetter quality, and eafier to work. To make
ufe of this rind, a copper is half filled, and when
it begins to grow luke-warm, the rind is added in
proportion to the quantities of (tuffs to be dyed and
the colour intended. The copper is then m.a^e to
boil, and when it has bciled a quarter of an hour, the
fluffs, v.hich were before dipped in v;arm water,
are put in. They are to be ftirred and turned until
they acquire the defired colour. If it is fpun v;co],
and that the (hades required are to be matched
with great exactnefs, a fmall quantity of rind is to
be put in riril, and the lighteft are fial made ; more
rind is then put in, and then the deepeft are made :
but to work with fluffs, the deepeft are generally
made firft, and as the colour of the liquor dimi-
nifhes, the lighteft are dipped ; they are aired as
ufual to cool them^ dricrd, and drefTed.
Next to the walnut rind is the root ; it gives a
great num.ber of fnades and pretty near the fame ;
thus they may be lubflituted the one for the ether,
2 according
THE dyer's assistant. I43
according to the facility of obtaining them, but
there is a difference in the manner of ufing the
root. A copper is tilled three quarters full of river
water ; the quantity of root that is thought con-
• venient is cut into fmall pieces, and added in pro-
portion to the quantity of wool to be dyed and the
fhade required.
When the liquor is hot, fo as not to bear the
hand, the fluffs are put in and turned, until they
have the defired fliade, carefully obferving to air
them from time to time, and to pafs them between
the hands by the lifts, to make the fmall pieces of
roots that ftick fall off to prevent their blotting ;
but this may be remedied by inclofing the cut root
in a bag, as has been faid of the yellow root. The
fluffs that are to be of lighter fh.ides are then to
be dipped, and to be thus continued until the
root gives no more dye. If it is fpun wool, the
lightefl: are to be made firft to match them the bet-
ter, as I have already faid in fpeaking nf other
colours ; but above all, care mull be taken nor to
boil the liquor at firll, for then this root would
give all its colour to the firft: piece of ftuff, and
there would not remain fufficient for the reft.
The method of dying wool with roots is not
very eafy, for if great care is not taken to bring
the dye to a proper degree of heat, and to flir the
wool and ftuffs fo that they may be equally foaked
in the copper, they run the hazard of being made
too deep or of being blotted, which cannot be re-
medied but by giving them a chefnut, prune, or coffee
colour, as I (hall fhow when I treat of the colours and
fliades arifing from the mixture of black and brown.
To avoid this inconvenience, the ftuffs muft: be
continually turned round the wynch, and dipped
piece after piece, and great care muft be taken not
to boil the roots too much, but always to leave
fome
144- THE DYER S ASSISTANT.
forr.e dying fubllance in them. When the wool
cr Huifs are dyed after this n^ethocJ, t!;ey are aired,
walhed, and dried.
The rrethod of treating the alder bark differs
not from tliat of the walnut-root before defcribed,
except that there is lefs darger in boiling it at the
beginning, as it tives lefs eround of colour to the
fluff. It is commonly ufed for thread, and for co-
lours that are to be fadden-^d with green copperas ;
it has however a good effect en wco! fr colours
that are not very deep, and it perfectly refifts the
action of the air and fun.
The fumach is prtiiy near the fame ; it is ufed
after the fame manner as the green lliells or in-
ward coats of walnuts ; it ftill gives lefs ground of
colour, and borders forrewhat on the green ; it is
often futftituted fcr gails in colours that are to be
faddened, and it anfwers penecl'.y wei!, but mufl
be ufed in larger quantities.
Thefe different rriarters are often mixed tcse-
ther, and as they are equally good, and produce -
nearly the fame effccf, they readily afford a variety 1
of fhades ; and yet there is nothing but pracfice
can teach this variety of brown if.aJes, tor they en-
tirely depend on the eye of the Dyer.
To ufe thefe ingredients (nixt, and ground faun-
ders together, put four pounds of this iaft into a
ccpper, half a pound of powdered gails, twelve
pcundsof elder bark, and ten pound of fumach, this
quantity will dye twenty-five or twenty- feven eils
of cloth } the v.hcle is boiled, and having ilacken-
ed the bcil by means of a little cold water, the c.oth
is put in, turned, ai.d well Airred for two hour? ;
after which it is taken out, aired and warned j otlier
fluffs that are to be of a lighter fhade are then put
in, and thus continued as Ici g aa the liquor af-
fords any colour.
The
THE dyer's asshtant; 145
The quantity of ihefe ingredients is augmented
or diminiihed in propoition to the height of the
ihade, and the ftutTs or wool are boiled more of
lefs accordingly. I have already obferved that by
this means only the colour can be extracted trom
the faunders.
I have here treated of th.e faunders and the
rnanner of ufing it, although it fliouM have been
chfled with the lelTer dyes, as tliis woad ought
only to be ufed for ftuffs of low prices, becaufe
of thedeftdls before fpoken of; yet as it is v;oiked
ahr.ofi after the fame n>anner as the other ingredi-
ents for dying brown, and in feveral places is even
tolerated in the good dye, as. it refills the fun and
air as well as t;ie others, I thought it would not
be improper here to give the method of wotkip.;^
it ; for the fame re?.fon I fliaH now defcribe the
method of dying with foot, though permitted only
in the lefler dye, having lefs folidlty than the reir,
befides hardening the wool, and giving a difagree-*
able fmell to the ftufTs.
The foot * is commonly put into the copper the
fame time as the water, and the whole is v.ell
boiled together; th.e ftuir is then dipt in, which
is to boil more or lefs, according to the iliadc re-
quired ; after v^hich it is taken out and aired, and
thofe put in wliich are to be lighter; they are then
to be well wafhed and dried, but it is better to boil
the foot in the water for two hours then let it fettle,
and empty the liquor into another copper, Vvfitliout
mixing the foot ; the wool and {luffs are put into
this liquor, and are lefs hardened and dried tliau
when they have been mixt with the foot itfelf, but
the colour is riot folid, and it is better not to m^ke
life of it for dying fluffs that bear a price, and
G more
* * Wood foot.
146 THE DYLR's assistant.
ir.ore fo as all its flia.'es may be had by the fcre^
going ingredients, which are better, more lafting,
and aifo fotten the woo!.
The Dvers of he lelTer dye ufually employ the
rlnc's of the nut and the root of the wahnn-trec
for thciT hrown colours ; the working of thffe two
ingredients bein? comtron to Dyers or the greater
and itfler dye ; but there are places where it is dif-
ficult to ohtain them, and then the faunders and
even foot are obliged to be ufed in their ftead.
What I have hitherto faid to account for the
foiidity ot the colours of t'ne good dye, may feem
nr<t to agree with br:.wn cclours fp-'ken of in this
chapter, fince ihefe are firmly applied on the wool
without any preparation to receive them by the
liquor of alum and tartar, "and confequently with-
out firft introducing into the pores of the fi:- res a
fait capable of hardenir.e iifelt m the cold, and to
Cerent the atoms that co'our the brown ; but it on
a chymical anahfis the green fhe'l of walnuts, the
root of the walnut-tree, t!-,e rial of alder, (houid
be proved to contain, befidcs their aftrinye. t pro-
perties, a vitriolated tartar, \%hi:h is a fair that
does nr t calcine in the fun, and that is only dif-
folved by boi;in2 water ; thi? I fay will convince
that thefe ingredients are fuficient of themfelves to
produce on the Ihjfts, without any fcreign help,
"the fa.Tie tffcdl as the other drugs, whofe colours
arc n>:t fet in with foiidity, but by the hr-ip of a
fait capable of ceuenting the colouring atoms,
1 he foot does not give lo lafting a brow n, be-
caufe it O'lv contains a v latile and an earthy fait
eafily difTolved, and in fa»5t the foot being only
cciri.iof%l of the lighTefl and mofl volatile parts of
comhuftible bo'ies, which hjve ferved as food few
the fire, it could not raife tartar of vitriol along
with
THE dyer's assistant. I47
with it, viiiich is a fait that does not rife by heat,
and which is alfo feldoin (ound in the wood whicii
we comitioniy burn in our chimnies.
As 1 am not wilHng to omit any living within
the limits of my knowledge, on the article of
woi Hen dying, 1 fliall give two or three hmts on
the acid of vitriol.
if you would have a beautiful claret on wool,
fluffs, or cloth, boil in a copper ot a good fize,
redwood or faunders in proportion to the (haJe
you want, and two pou>ds ot logwo'-d, for forty
pounds of wool previoufly fc-^ured. When the in-
gred.ents h ve boiled iialt an h( ur, put a pi,,t of
oil of vitriol into a pail of cold water, and add it
to the liquor, when the wool inuft be put m, and
gently boiled for two or three hours. It it then to
be taken up on a fcray, that is, let acrcfs the cop-
per to drain, and five or fix pails of water poured
over it, l>.e copper muft be tlien run down and
filled as before with fair water, and when it is lior,
ten pounds of copperas and tour ounces of pearl-
alhcs muft be adc'ed, and the v.'ool returned and
well worked with a long pole to n.ake it even
The alhes (which are a fixed alkali) a6i upon the
logwood, and give- it a tire luftre ac the faaie time.
It weakens the a^id of the vitriol, and makes way
for the copperas to do its part, which would ot er-
wife be kept at a diflance ; the vitriol d es not
obftrudf the cloth in the fulling mili, fur thf- vi:rioI,
which fome fuppoie to be a great enei.y ir, the
mill, is divef^eu ot it.s acid by the (ir 'ng alkali
contained in the chamberley in fcouring, and the
colour remains pertedily vivid. If f r torry pounds
or wool, &c. ten pcu.ds of nut-^alls were bruifed'
and boiled with the above ingredients, the acid
therein contained woul produce as biliiant a
colour, andj if pofTible, more hcldiog than the
G 2 former j
148 THE dyer's assistant.
former ; but if galls are ufcd, the fame liquor will
do the faiTie buiii efs when the copperns is added
without 2(hes 2s a frefli water would when vitriol
js ufed. It ferry pounds of cloth, ftuff, or wcrfted
were boiled in a fufficient quantity of redwood or
iaunders, and one pint of prepared aquafortis be
added to the liquor after the g( ods have boiled aa
hour and a half, and then turned well for half an
hour, the colour will be vivid and fine ; the cop-
per muft be well cooled when tlie fpirits are put in.
When cloth or fluffs are dyed claret with oil of
-vitriol, great care muft be taken to turn them cot\-
tinually over the wench, and particularly in taking
out, obferve the inftant the laft end comes up to
take off into a large tub of cold water, that all
parts may cool alike, or the colour will be very
uneven, as the vitriol when hot will not bear the
air.
Oil of vitriol is fo ufcful a thing in dying, that
any colour, fave woaded blue or green, may, by
the help of its acid, be brought to a fine claret,
black not excepted.
CHAP. XVIi.
OF BLACK.
BLACK is the fifth of the primary colours. To
dye the beft and the mcft lively fhade, a velTel
fuficiently large muft be filled with foft water, and
for every hundred weight of cloth, thirty pounds of
logwood in chips muft be put in, with half a pail
ot'^elder bark and fix pounds of fumach ; boil thefe
ingredients together half an hour, when the cloth
may be entered (the copper being firft cooled by
■^ the
THE dyer's assistant, I49
the addition of cold water), and boiled an hour and
a half, being inftantly turned on the wynch to pre-
vent an unevennefs of dye. This operation being
ended, which is called a preparation or (luffing the
blacks, I (hall proceed to the finhhing.
A, fiTiall tub is to be placed at the (ide of the
copper, out of which it muft be iilled with hot li-
quor, in which put ten or fourteen pounds or cop-
peras to diilblve ; the cloth is then kept turning,
whilil a man with a piggin h ladiiig the copperas
water into the copper; the cloth is turned here at
3 boilinw heat one hour, then taken out and coo'ed
wdl in all parts alike ; when thoroughly cold,, re-
turn it into the copper, v/ith two haadfuls of cop-
peras, and boil it gently as bef jre for two hourSj
then cool it again.
Wliilil the fecond coo'.ing is carrying en, (ix
pounds of logwood, ten pounds of bark, 'and two
pounds of argil, with ten pounds of foda or co nmoa
afhes, and three pounds of copperas, muft be added
to the liquor ; thefe ingredients muft be made to
boil one hour, when the goods mull be turned and
workrd one hour. Kep the v/ynch continually
turning, always obfervmg that the fmall portion of
air which the goods receive by turning on the
wynch, contributes much to the beauty of the co-
lour. Some Dyers inftead of aihes ufe chaiiiberley,
but this is a bad cuftom. If they would become
good black Dyers, tiiey muft abandon their old
pradice, and by mixing their natural genius with
reafon and good fenfe, they, will f lon find by ex-
perience, that the acid of the argil ads only on the
vitriolic acid of th? copperas, and prevents a broAfn
or rufty hue that will un:iypidably proceed from the
)ogwj<xl ; the alkaline power of the. adies at •the
fame time forces it to afTume it natural violet co-
lour i that if too great a quantity of logwood is not
G 3 ufed,
ISO THE dyer's assistant.
ufed, (which would certainly prejudice the colour)
and this rule carefully obferved, the black would
refeaible a raven's feather j they muft be well
wafhed at ttie fulling-mill.
I (hali not entertain the reader with a tedious re-
cital of the manner of treating tbofe goods whofe
fuperior quality renders it neediui that they fhould
previ' ufly be dytd blue, it is fuffiijient to know,
tl\at they rruft have a lefs proportion of ingredi-
ents, though the optrarion is the fame as that of
the common black.
W hen fi.,e cloth is to be dyed black, great care
muft be taken n.jt to let it hang on the wynch one
{ninutej it rr.uft be thrown off that inftant the laft
comes up ; otherwife its own weight when wet and
hot would fill it with wrinkles that would never
reir.ove. The fame caution mufl be taken when
the cloth is on the floor, to draw it between two
men over a Icng flick by the lifts, each taking hold
of one end with their left hand, to be continued
till cold before it be returned.
Re fh arks on the Blach Dye.
The moft efTeniial thing to be remarked is, that
it prejudices and weakens the goods; tor tliis rea-
fon rhole that are dyed *^!ack are fount ft worn out j
th'-v re l.owfvtr in all rather refpedls equal tothofe
that are dyed other colours. This defed is chiefly
to v,'^ uunLutea to the vitriolic acid of the cop-
perss, which is only imperteftly fjturated by the
iron ; as irtn ur.ited to ar^y other acid, and even to
ve;:etab!e acids, is capable of producing bla^k with
aftringcnt vejetabK-s. There is great caufe to
think that by iubftiruling other combinaiions of
this metal for '1 e copperas, this inconvenience
might be reme<!ied.
Thefs
THE dyer's assistant. 151'
Thefe are certainly good and ufeful eflays to at-
tempt. It is not without caufe that tbe blacks are
dir?<Sted to be aired between the dippings, as it in-
finitely contribLUes to the beauty ot the dye; for
it is certain that this dye is different from molV
others which lofe of their colour in drying-; this^
on the contrary, acquires a great deal; it is uni-
verfally known, that good writing-ink does nor
appear any thing near fo black when fre(h andr
recently ufed, as when dry, and that tv<:n it grows-
more black during a certain f^^^ce of time, Thft
fame happens to the bhek dye. The cloth is iiT
fome meafure of a grey blackilh colour i^mrediately
after the firft dip; it only acquires the benutiful
black en beiiig expofed to the air ; this is not the
.only fxriaiple of the influence of the air on coloursi
the. biue vat exliibits fomeihing like it.
CHAP, xviir.
OF THE MiXTUilE OF BLUE AND KED.
IN fpeaking of the red I olferved that there were
four different kmds in the good dye. We
ihall now explain the effe£t of thefe difF.rent reds
placed on a fluff that has been previoufly dyed
blue. If a blue ftuff is boiled in alum and tartar,
(after the manner and proportion taught m the
article of red, and which is attcrwards to be dyed
with kermes the following colours v-fill re.^ulr, viz.
The king's colour, the prince's colour, the panfy,
the Violet, the purple, and fevera! other like
colours ; but the kermes is feldom ufed for thefe
colours, on account of its hiiih price, and the
quantity which would be required, but rnore fo,.
G 4. becaufe
JS'i. THE dyer's assistant.
becau.e cochineal \ieids a finer colour for this pur-
poi'e, and with greater eafe. 1 have already cb-
ferved that kerrr.es is feldom ufed, though there
are fever-1 compound colours in whiich it produces
a very good efrecl, as will be more particularly de-
fcribed.
When the kermcs is ufed to by a red rn blue,
it is indifferenc v.har ground of blue is lirft given,
cr whether it be given before cr after the ftufF is
dyed red, becsufe the c. lour cf the kermes is too
foiid to be changed by the li^ne ot the vvoad
vat^ (unlefs the vat be overloacled) or by the
pearl -afhes in the indigo, 'J^hus if the woad vat
is ngt too old, it tr.ay be begun by either of thefe
two colours at p eafure, or by that which is moft
convenient to match the fhade. Although I named
but a fmall number of colours, a great many may
be drawn from thefe two principal ones, accord-
in» as the or.e or the ether may be more predo-
minan:.
The mixture of blue with fire- colour fcarlet is
never ufed iu any or their Ihades. To convince
myfelf by experience, I took a piece of cloth dyed
in fcailet, and ciipt ir in the blue vat, and 1 dyed a
Kcond pie:e according to the method of dying
Icarlet, having previoufly dyed it blue. The one
and the other fucceeded very badly, and made a
kind of diili fpotted violet, fo it appeared that the
iv,o colours did not unste, but that they were laid
each on ciffercni pans or the wool. This no doubt
is caufed by the acids which enter the coa^pcfition
cf the fcariet. iiut without entering here upon
the phvfical reafon of this operation, which might
occafiou too lung a dificrtation, and tedious repe-
tition of what i liave already faid, the fact appears
luficiciit here : ir prcves iha no beautiful 'colour.
cau
THE DYER 3 ASSISTANT. 153
can be had from the mixture of blue and fc:.r!et j
it rnuft be crinfon.
From the mixture oi- blue and crimfon, the
columbine, the purple, the amsranth, the panfy,
and the violet are formed ; thefe colours have alfo
a great number of Ihades which depend upoa the
ihades of ttie oiher colour, from whence they are
derived.
I have faiJ fo much on the primary, colours, that
no difficulty can remain in the execution of the
compound colours.
Stuffs or fpun v;ool are firft made of one colour,
and then ■ dyed of the other, precifely as if it was
wiiite; but it muil be obferved in this cafe, that
the fiufi .be lirfl dyed blue before it is made into
crimfon, for the reafon before given, ihat the
alkali of the one or other vat greatly obfcures the
br.ghtncfs of the red of the cochineal.
i"o make violets, purples, and other like
fliades, what I have already faid on crimfon is to
be followed, becaufe thefe colours will have nei-
ther brightnefs nor luftre, but by foUov/ing thepre- -
cautions necePfary.for iiae crimfons.
From blue, and the red of madder, proceeds
alfo the king's colour, the prince's colour, (but
innnueiy lefs beautiful than when tlve kermes is
made ufe of; for the red of the madder is always
obicured by the brown of its ligneous parts) the
snlnime, the tan-colour, the amaranth, the dry rofe,
always lefs bright than when the kermes is made
ufe of. Neverthelefs it is fometimes n.ixed with
madder, as 1 have already fsid, to make half-
grained fcarlets, and the colours which proceed
from it are always fi.ier than when msoder alone is
ufed on a ftufF dyed blue; madder is alfo (ni::^4
with cochineal, as in the half crimfons, :xn<i a great
nu.naber of very fine fnades are diawn fro.n tlien,
G 5 v/hich
154 THE DYERS ASSISTANT.
which cannot have pDrtlcular natnes, but which
b' rder en tl.ofe I have juft metitioned. Some of
th fe iniy be made as fifie as if desrer ingre :ients
were made ufe of. It is the hufinefs and profit of
the Dyer not to ufe ire deareil, when the fame ef-
fc&s may be produced by the cheapeft ingredients.
It is impofli le fsr me to give any infiructions on
thi? a'-ticle, fi ice ufe alone can teach it. The old
liquor or madder and cochineal is often ufed, whofe
colours have not been entirely extracted, which
makes a confi.'erabie faving, and the colour is not
Jefs good. 1 can fay nothing pofitive on this, fince
the efreft which will refult from it depe.".ds en
what coi.'ur inay remain in the liquor, and on the
(hade intended.
CHAP. XIX.
OF THE MIXTURE OF SLUE AND YELLOW.
FROM the mixture of blue and yellow but one
colour IS prO''uccd, which is green ; but
there are a variety ot fhides ; the principal ones
arc% the yellow green the li^ht green, the gay
green, the grafs green, the laurel greeri, the mjle-
qum tureen, tlie deep green, the fea green, the ce-
ladon green, the parrot green, the cabbage green,
and I Ihail add, the duck.- wing green, and the ce-
ladon green without blue. All thele Ihades, and
the inter medi.itc- ores, are made ofier the fame
mani r an with the fame eafe. The liuff or wool
dyed blue, lign- or dark, is boiled in alum and tar-
tar, as IS uiuaily done to make a white ftuff yel-
low, and then wuh weld, fav ry, or greening
wood. All thefe ingredients are equally good as
to
THE dyer's assistant. 155,
to folidlty, but as their yellows differ a little, h do.
the greens that arile from their iTsixture. The
weld and the favory are tlie two plants that afford '
the fineft oreens.
To make the green fhades which border on the
yellow, the ftuff muft be of a very light blue, and
boiled with the coiiiioon quantity of tartar and
alum to receive the yellow ; for without thefe falls
it would n -t be lafiing, (but for a parrot or cab-
bage green the blue mufl: be very deep) zi.d as it
is only to have a light yeilow, the fluffs inufl have
but a half preparation j I have already iiTentioiied
tlris ; fometimes even a quarter of the water for
the common preparation ib fufficient.
When the workmen make thefe colours, they,
often ufe the falts without weighing them, and
guefs at tiie quantity which they think necefiary for
the fh de intended; a long pradlice may in fome-
meal'ure make them pretty exadt, but it would be
frdi better if they did not truft to it.
I know by repeated experiments that thefe green-
blue ihades are as vvcil made by giving the ftulf
the common preparation. The yellov/ which is
afrerwards applied to it is the more lading, but on.
this occafion lefs wtrld is to he put into the liquor
of the dye, or any otiier colouring matter, and the
fluff mu ft remiin lefs lime in the liquor, notwith- .
landing two reafons induced to the contr:.;ry ; the .^
firlt and moil intercfting to the Dyer is, that, they
would confume a greater quantity of drugs than is
neceffary ; and the fecon;i, that the lefs alum ufed
in the preparation, the more the foftneis and the
quality of the wool is preferved, and the lefs thefirft .
dye of blue is da^naged ; for the alu.n always greys
the blues a little. Thus it is better to kave ihe
Dyer to his cuftom of regulating the flren^th of
G6. " hb
156 THE dyer's assistant.
his preparalicn lo the neccflary piich to give ihefe
CO. curs.
I have faid that to dye green it was r.eceflary
t'"i3t the wool Ihould be previoufly blue; becauTe I
think that the two colours hid on in tliis order hold
better, and that the colour would not be fo good
if ctherwife done. Of t!:i& I afTure myfelt by mak-
ing the greens, of which I have fpoken, with the
fjve colouring matters already known, which make
a yellow of the good dye ; I have tried a yellow of
the raft.e materials, the contrary, having dipped
five yellow pieces in the woad var, and have had as
fii-.e greens as the firft. 1 expofed bothro the fum-
rr er's fu.n, and they have refifted fufficiently to be
eftcemed cf the good dye ; but thofe which had re-
ceived the blue before the )eiiov/ loft the leaft, fo
that in particuhr circuniftances the Dyer muft be
allowed to begin firft with yellow. But greens
which have the blue colour laft, will fully tr.e linen
mere than the others ; for if the blue has been nril
dyed, all that could be taken off was done by the
alum .iquor, which happens on the contrary when
the b.ue was put on lait ; the only remedy tor this
i?, to fcour the greeij well after it comes cut of the
copper.
Cioth dyed kii^g's blue, and greened wiih the
flower of ihe virga aurcu Canadieiyh^ make a very
fine gre-.n, provided 't has been bcijed in a liquor
with three times the weight of alum to one of
white tiiftar ; the green is net inferior to that made
of weld.
I have alfo greened blues with afh-bark povif-
dered ; they are of a very good dye, but not of a
fine co'our, and onlv fit for Hveries The leaves
of almond, pe xh and pear trees, &c. give yellow;:,
which kive to make green ihades, that are rather
difRcuIt to hit on at fi-'ft,
A fluff
THE dyer's assistant. I57
A fluff dyed in the king's blue, well fcoured,
then boiled w-ith four parts of alum, and one of
tartar, takes a fine deep green of the fliade of a
duck's wing; but it mui\ be boiled for two hours
in a liquor, with a fufRcient quantity of the root
of Iharp- pointed dock grofsly bruifed.
This root, which grows in every liedge and
field, is a good acquifuicn to tlie art of dying ; for
with it, ar.d without any other addition but the
preparing liquor for the ftuffs, it produces an in-
finity ot fiiadef, from the itraw colour to a pietty'
fine olive ; oiily puitirig more or lefs to the lujuor,-
and boiling it from half an fiour to three hours,
Thefe fhides ftand all manner of proof. I flroniily
recommend the cultivation of this dock in damp
places, for its ufc hi dying.
T he celadon green (a particular colour) is much
admired by the luliabitancs of the Mediterranean,
and may in (irict buhnels be made in the good dve,
by giving a blue ground to the f^ufF. But this
(hade of blue ir>u(t be fo weak, that it is only a
miik and water colour, which is very difficult to
give fmoot'.i and equal. When this fhide h.as been
happily hit, it is eaiier to give the yellow dye that fuits
it, w'lih the virga au?-ea than with the weld, rhe
virga aurea is not known to the D) ers of Lan-
guedoc, who make moft of thefe kind of colours,
and as the neceffary blue (hades are diflicult to dye,
they are fomctimes permitted to dye celadons with
verdigrife, alihougli this colour be in the rank of
the lelTer dye.
The Dutch make this' colour perfe<2:Iy, and
render it more bfting than it commonly is with
the verdigrife. Here follows their method.
Two coppers are fet a little diftance the one
from the other. In the firft is put for two pieces
of cloth of forty. Eve or fiity elis long, eight or
ten
15S THE dv;r's ass::tant.
ten pounc's of white f:ap cut hr-all and perfectly
iTielted. When the liquor is ready to boil, rhe
cloths are dipt in, and boil for lialf an h^ur.
Another liquor is prepared in the next copper, and
whtn it is I'calding hot a clcth bag is put in con-
taining eight or ten pounds of Cyprus or blue
v>rif)l, and ten or twelve pounds of iime, botli
powr'ered and we 1 mixt j this mixture rrtuii be as
equal z- polFible. The bag is moved about in the
hot water, but not boiling, till all the blue vitriol
is dilToAed in the liquor ; then a wynch is pur up,
fiirrounded hv a clesn linen cloth, and weli taltened
on ; one end ot the two cloths is put i)n the
vvvnch, which is turned iwiftly th-t the cl ths may
quickly p^ls thrcugli the foap liquor to that of the
vitriol ; then the wynch ss worlced more gently,
that the cloth may have time to charge itfclf with
the parts o* copper, which the li ne has fcattercd
in the .iquor, by feparatinjj ar :d precipitating them
from the vitriol w \:n contained them. The cloths
are left in t' is l.quor, wluch nhuit not bit until
thev hdve taken t e (hac^e ot the celadon that was
wanted ; then they are taken out an i well aired :
they muft be entirely cold refore they are walhed,
and muft touch no wood befr.re they aie, for the
wood fpots them ; for this reafon the wynch z?A
thrC hoile are furiounded with cioth.
CHAP. XX.
OF THE ^5IXTL'RE OF BLUE AN"t» BRO'.VI^.
Ln^TLE ufe is made of the (hade which
arifes from the mixture cf blue and brown :
thefc £re ■^reenjfh gieys, or a kind or Oiives, wiiich
are ciily fi: to match fhades fcr tapsftries; thefe
colours
THE dyer's assistant. 159
colours are eafily made when wanted, and it is
equal to begin by the blue or the brown colour to
the fpun wool ; but care muft be taken that it be
well fcoured, as is done for the blue and the com-
pound colours which are fimfhed by dipping them
in the vat. Any fubflance that dyes brown inay
be equally made ufe of for thefe colours, and ioinc
give the (hade required better than others.
CHAP. xxr.
OF THE MIXTURE OF BLUE AND BLACK.
'O particular fha:!e arifes fronn this mixture,
^ , except by the mixture of blue and grey,
(which are fhades of the black). In this cafe the
blue muft not be very deep, and is afterwards
worked the fame as the black, excepting', that the
colour not beina; fo dark lefs copperas enters in ;
but I repeat again tliat this colour ou'iht only to be
efteemed a fhade of the black Thus it may be
laid that no fhades are made from olue and black
ufcd by themfelves, and very few trom blue and
brown.
CHAP. XXII.
OF THE MIXTURE OF RED AND YELLOW.
FROM fcarlet of grain or kermes and the yel-
low are formed the aurora, ttie marigold, and
the orange. The v;ool is firrt boiled m alum and
tartar, and dyed in cne of theie colours, and then
dipped in the fecond, or by mixing in the fame li-
quor
i6o THE dvcr's assistant.
quor the kernies, the weld, the favory, Sec. and fa
dyit.2; it at once. Yet it is eaiier to attain the
exact (hades bv dyin^ it at twice ; for this reafon,
tlie wool or the itutF ir.ay be alternately paiTed in
the one or other Uquor, tili it be precifeiy ot the
defired colour.
The lobfter and pomegranate colours are done
exadly as fcarlet is, that is, boiled with cream of
tartar, cochineal, and the compofition, after which
thev are taken out, aired, and waihed. For the
finiihing, a frefli liquor is prepared as lor the
Larlet, ► ut without cr chineal ; in its ftead, a little
yeKovv \^'ooj ground is fubftitute;! -, this depends on
the colour the ftuff is intended to be of. The
more it borders on the orange, the more yellow
Viced is added, diminifhing the quantity ot the co->
chineal.
i endeavoured to make this colour after three
different n.ethods, and lucceeded in ail j the firft-
is that which I have cefcnbed ; the fecond is by
putting tuilic inilead ot veLow weed, and this laves
a gre^t deal of cochineal, and the (h^de ot the
fuftic is a great deal more on the orange than the
yellow wood, but thefe ingredients are n-, t lafting,
and ought not to be u!ed but in the f iTer dye.
The method is with cochineal alone, by augment-
ing the quantity of the compofition, winch roufes
the coctMncal. and turns it to orange as nuch as
is ciefired ; but this is attended with verv great in-
convenience, jft, The Colour bcco.i es ver) ex-
penfive, becaufc it requires more cochineal than
common fcarlet, as the great quantity of the com-
poiiti'jn, which is an acid, makes it lofe part or its
ground. 2d, For the fame reafon tlie colour al-
ways ] oks ftarvcd, it appears as if the cochineal
had been fpared, the compofui n having difToived
part of it. 3dj This large quantity of compofition
hardens
THK dyer's assistant. i6i
hardens the wool, and makes it more liable to be
fpotted by dirt and (harp liquor, and confequently
this method is the worft, 1 mentioned that the
Inconveniency of the fecond was ufing the fuftic,
which is a wood forbid in the good dye ; confe-
quently the firft ought to have the preference, if it
give the lobfter colour as bright as the fecond.
But this colour made by the yellow wood has not
all the folidity that might be deiired, as I have tried
by expofing it to the fun ; this at tirft appesrs ex-
traordinary, fince the ingredients ufed have all the
folidity poffible. But the reafon why they are not
fo good in the prefent cafe is, that the cochineal
ufeci in the fcarlet compofition and the cream of
tartar are too folid ; thun the lobfter colour lofes
nothing in the air. But the cafe is otherwife with
the yellow wood, though it be very lafling on the
wool boiled in alum and tsrtar, efpecially when a
little alum is added to the liquor of its dye; it is
not the fame as when the wool or fluff has received
the water fcr the fcarlet preparation in which no
alum can enter, and confequently when thefe fort
of colours are expofed to the air, they fadden in a
fliort time, that is, they Ici'e part of their orange
colour, produced by the mixture of the yellow with
the red, and the effcdt of the air upon this colour
is the fame, though it appears different from that
on all others, &c. that it commonly turns them
pale ; yet this one darkens and browns them by
taking away part of its bright orange. For it is
demotiflrated by fevera! chynVical experiments, that
there is a vitriolic acid in ti^ air like unto that
which may be extracled from alum. Now if a
fluif dyed lobller colour was to be pafTed through
a jiglit foiution of alum, the acid of the fait would
i:nmediately fadden it, and the red of the cochineal
would cclipre the orange dye ; the fame thing muft
then
l62 THE dyer's assistant.
then happen when fuch a colour is expofed to the
air, Vv'hich is itDpregnated with the fame acid.
Very tew (hades are made from the crimfonand
yellc w, bccaufe of the price of the liiA, and that
pretty near the fame fhades are made with madder
and kermes, yellow and half fcarlet of grain, as
well as from ihe yellow and halt crju^fon. It is
with thefe difFer^nt mixtures, that marigold, orange,
gold yellow, and other like (hades are made, which
are fimply produced hy the mixture of tlie yeli0\«
and red, and fometirries by yellow alone.
CflAP. XXI II.
OF THE -MIXTURE OF RED AND BROWN.
THE reds of the kermes and cochineal are
nor ufed in this mixture, for madder has
as gcod an effctfl on thofe which cannot become
briglu, becaufe of the dark obfcure col. ur uf the
brown, but after they are maddered, they are dipt
in the old liquors of cochinal or kermes ; yet a
liqu- r in thofe ingredients is felriom purpofely pre-
pared, being too dear for fuch common colours
which are as eafily made with madder. The ftufF
is to be boiled with a qyantity of alum and t rtar,
proportioned to the red fhade of mad 'er intended ;
it is then paflVd through a liquor of this root, and
afterwarrfs dipped and worked in a liquor ot walnut
roots or walnut rinds ; the following colours will
be produced, viz. cinnamon, tobacco, chefnut,
mufic, bear's h.alr, and numherhfs oihrs, by vary-
ing the ground of the madder froai the brownell
to the lighteil, and keeping then longer or fh.rter
in t!ie liquor of the roct. The proccfs m.ay bcgia,
witliin any one of tliefe colours, but the red isx:om.->
monly
THE dyer's assistant. 163
monly dyed firft, as the liquor proper for the mad-
der might hurt the brjvvn, therelore they are not
to be mixt as the red-and yellow are foiBeiimes.
CHAP. XXIV.
OF THE MIXTURE OF YELLOW AND BROWN.
FROM this mixture are produced the {hades of
feulemort and bear's hair.
Soot is commonly ufed in thefe colours inftead
of the rinds 61' walnuts, or the root of the walnut
tree, as it makes them finer, but care muft be
taken tl^at the wool or ftufF be well fcoured after
it is dyed, to take off the bad fmell of the liquor;
for only the clear hqu r of the foot is to be ufed,
as has already been faid. I he walnut rinds are
preferable to the foot, unlefs obliged to match a
pattern of fc'ulemf}rt with the greateft exadnefs,
and which may fonetiines be done with the walnut.
Thefe are the only two browns refulting from
thefe fha'les, the fu nach and the alder bark not
givin;^ fufficient ground.
Wool muft be boiled in alum and tartar to dye
it yellow before it is made brown , but it itfh ^uld
not hive a fufficient ground ot yellow, it might be
pafTed atrelh tnrough the yellow dye, notwithftand-
ing it has been browned, though m fadt this method
of feeking exadly the ihade does not make fo laft-
ing a colour as when the yellow was at firft fuffi-
ciently dye 1 ; for wl.en the yellow is dyed firft, the
brown is a great deal brighter.
CHAP
164 THE DY£R's assistant.
CHAP. XXV.
OF THE MIXTURE OF BROWN AND ELACK.
FROM this rrixlure a great number of colours
may be extruded, as cofFre, chefnur, prune,
mufk, thorn, and feveral Hke (hades, wiv^fe num-
bers are almoir infinite, and of great ufe. The
method of working them is this :
After the wool or fttfls have been made brown,
as already defcribed, and that feyeral fliades have
previoufly been given ; as for example, a ftronger
brown tor the ccit'ee, chefnur, &c. gails, fumach,
and elder bark are put into a copper in proportion
to the quantities of ftufF to be dyed; the whole is-
boilcd fur one hour, after which green copperas is
to added. 7 he fluffs that are to be ligfitell, as
tlie thorn, are firfl dipped in this liquor, then
taken cur, and others that are to be browner are
put in, obferving to add copperas to the liquor
each time, and as occaficn may require, which is
known by its not browning the ftuff quickly, thus
continuing until ail the fluits are browned : the.
liquor mufl not boil, nor be of a greater degree of
heat than the hanJ can bear.
When the galls and other ingredients are boiled,
cr Id water is added to refrefh the livjuor before the
ftufF is put in: this is a precaution that-is abfolutely
neceffary, as I have often faid. The ftufFs are firft
to be dipped in luke-w?rm water before they are
put info the copper, leil fince they v/ere browned
they fhould have dried ; and they mufi be aireJ
when they have remained fome time in the brown-
ing, by palling thC'Ti between the hands bythehiis,
without which they would perhi;ps fpoil, blot, and
be unequally dyed, and the brown, for want of
airing.
THE dyer's assistant. 165
airing, would not be laftins:, as there would not
be a fucceflive congelation of the faline parts of the
vitriol.
I have now fliown all the neceflary colours or
fhades wliich may be produced by the mixture
of the primitive colours taken two by two, and
have given a minute defcription both of their
efFetSfs and the method of producing them. There
being but few colours which may not be greatly
varied, it depends on the judgment of the Dyer to
choofe the eafieft, provided the colour be equally
jfine.
CHAP. XXVI.
GF THE MIXTURE OF THE PRIMITIVE COLOURS,
TAKEN THREE BY THREE.
FROM blue, red, and yellow, the red olives and
grcenifh greys are made, and fome other like
ihades of little ufe only for fpun wool defigned for
tapeftry. It would be a repetition to give the method
of ufing thefe colours, having fufHciently explained
it in the preceding pages.
In the mixture, > where blue is a (hade, it is
ufual to begin with it ; the ftuflp is afterwards
boiled to give it the other colours, in which it is
dipped alternately one after the other ; notwiih-
flanding they are fometimes mixed together, and
are as good, provided they are colours which re-
quire the fame preparation ; for example, the mad-
der-red and the yellow. As to the cochineal and
kermes, they are feldom ufed in thefe common
colours, but only light colours which have a bloom
or vinous hue, and which muft be bright and bril-
liant, and then they are not ufed in the laft liquor,
that
i66 THE dyer's assistant.
that is, the fluff is only dipped in when it has re-
ceived the riher colours, unltfs they are to be
greyed a little, which is laflly done by pafling them
throucrh the browning. It is i^i pcflible to give
any precife rules for this work, and the it aft pradtice
of ihefe rules will teach more than 1 could fay in
many volumes.
Olives are made from blue, red, and brown,
from the deepeft to ihe li hteft, and by giving a
little fhade of re.<, the flatcd greys, the lavender
greys, and fuch like.
From the blue, the red, and the black, an in-
finite nu:Tiber ot grty of all (hares are made, as
the fage erey, the pi-eon grey, the flate grey, the
lead grey, the kir.g's and pnrKe's col( ur, browner
than ufual, and a variety or other colours almofl
iirnurrierable.
From sellow, blue, and brown, are made the
greens, goofe dung, and olives of all kinds.
From brown, blue, and black, are produced the
brown olives and the green greys.
From the red, yellow, and brown, proceed the
oranee, g<.ld colour, rriarigold, ftulemrirt, old car-
nations, burnt cinnam- n, and tobacco of all kinds.
From the red, yellow, and biack pretty near the
fame as the laft, and the deep feu'emort ; as alfo
the ox hair and brown nut, and others of the like
kind.
I give this lif^ of colours only as a table to fhow
in general what ingredients are made ufe of to
make thele forts of colours, which alfo partake of
feveral others
F(jur or five of thefe colours may be mixed to-
gether ; however this is rarely done: a n)ii:ufe
detail on this fubje6t would be ufelefs, becaufe all
that may be done is ottentimes fuptrf^uous. 1 fhall
new only relate the manner in which I have feen
;ibout
THE dyer's assistant. 167
about forty different fhades of carnations made in
fpun wool i this fxnrTiple will fh)w what may be
done in all other cafes. Thre were none of thofe
bnght (hades ot fcarlet in thefe which are made as
in the chapter on that colour.
Variety of Carnation Colours,
All thefe flefh or carnations were old carnations,
or (hades of it, fo that they were all obliged to he
taken from the mixture of the red of kermes, yel-
low, brown, and bUvk.
An un-qual preparation was firft given to the
wool, referving tor^he lighter (hades thofe whofe
preparing liquors had been weakert. When they
had remained as ufual four or tive days in the
liquor, the li^jhter (ha^^es were dyed ; thefe colours
were difpofed in f mr different veffels, which were
always kept fufnciently hot without boiling. A
fkain of wool was immediately dipped in the liquor
of the kermes for a minute, it was taken out,
wrung, and paffed through a liquor of weld, and an
irtftant after through a brown one, and it became
of the colour required by the Dyer \ he immediately
dipped anbther, which remained a litle longer in
each liquor: he went on after this manner, and
when, after being ftDngly wrung, and feeined to
want a little red or any other colour, he dipped it
in the liquor which it appeared to want. By this
niethod he brought all his colours to the defired
fhade, and pafT^d through the brown thofe that
were required to be deeper. I was fully perfuaded
by this method of working, that only pjtience and
pradiice were wanting to make all the colours
which can be conceived.
Too much caution cannot be given in this kind
of work, to begin always with the li^hteft Ihades ^
for
i68 THE dyer's assistant.
for it often happens that they are kept too long in
fome of thefe liquors, and then that Ikain inuft be
made into a darker fliade. But when once the
hghter fhades are matched, and in a right degrada-
tion, the reft are eafily made.
What I have been fp^aking of, relates only to
'vs'ool intended for tapeftry, when it is neceffsry that
the fnades be carried on with tiie greateft degree of
precifion, without which it would be impoffible to
imitate the flefh colours of the painter.
With regard to (luffs, it feldom or never hap-
pens, tliat they are made in thefe gradations of
(hades, or that (o many colours are mixed together;
two or three are generally fufncient, fince it has
been fiiown what a variety of colours arofe from
their combination, that even names cannot be
found for them.
I think I have omitted nothing regarding the
dying of wool or woollen (ix^ffs in the great and
good dye, and I make no doubt but that by exactly
following wliat I have laid down, each colour and
all the Ihades may he executed to the greateft per-
feiilion, as well in fleece wool, fpun wool, as on
fluffs mianufa^lured in white.
1 think it yet neceflary to add Something in re-
gard to mixed fluffs, that is, v/hofe wool is
mixed before the ma.tufailuring ot the fruff, and
to teach the method by .which this mixture of
dyed wool is performed, to be afterwards carded
an(! fpun to form a colour refuiting from thofe dif-
ferent wools.
It may he objefled, that this article rather re-
lates to tt.e manufaduring of ftuffs than their
dyes ; but to ihis 1 anfwer, that fometimes colours
aie made by mixing wool of different fhades,
whofe cclours would not e^^fily be imitated by dy-
ing the fluff of a compound colour ; fome of thele ,
2 . - r different
THE dyer's assistant. 169
different (hades compofed of ingredients which
would require a different preparation ; whereas
by dying every part ot the wool feparately, the
mixture is made without any difficulty ; it cannot
tlierefore be improper here to give the manner of
mixing together wool of different colouis, and
I fnall alfo give the manner of making mixtures for
an effay or proof in fmall, (which is always recef-
fary; to choofe tliat which produces the moft agree-
able effedl.
CHAP. XXVIL
OF THE MANNER OF MIXING WOOL OF DIFFFRENT
COLOURS FOR CLOTHS OR MIXUD COLOURS.
Colours 77iix£d in the Loom.
ONE example of the method of mixing (af-
ter the moft ex3(5t manner pcffibic) uool
of different colours, will be fufficient, and it will
be eafily applied in all other cafes required. Sup-
pofe a mixed cloth of a coffee colour to be made,
the following is the method of the manufadurers
of Languedoc, and pr.'ity near the fame is prac-
tifed in all other manufactories.
Three hundred and fifty pounds of wool are
firft dyed coffee colour, which is called the
ground wool, that is, that which prevails in the
fiuffs ; after which are taken five pounds of wool
dyed in madder- red or kcrmes, and two pounds
dyed in king's blue; thefe laft are called the wool
of mixture. This wool is diftributed to different
perfons placed in a ring in a large room. The
fador, or he that has the care of the mixture,
H ftands
1^0 THE dyer's AS5ISTANT.
-ftands with a flick in his hand in the centre of this
circle, the iricn being at fix tee t diftance from himj
eight or ten are generaily employed at this work,
snd all tl^.e wool is piven to them. In the prefent
cafe, for example, fix will be eoiployed in bearing
the prevailirg wool or coffee colour, oie the blue,
snd another the red ; but they muft be fo fituated
that there may be three toge:her who have the
ccfTee co.oured wool, then he that has the red, then
three with the coffee colour, and iaflJy lie that has
the blue. When there is a greater nuirber of
colours, they are thus equally diftributed, cbferving
to di^dc them, as much a^ poflible, the one from
the other.
The nen thus difpofed walk flowly round the
faclor, keepit ii an equal diftance, and each flep
they tske they caft at tlie feet of tlie faflor a fmall
lock of the wool they carry, with this difference,
that thofe tiiat h^ve the red or the blue, having
but a firall quantity to diftribute, fling but little
each time, whereas the others muft fling much
more. The faiior (tirs the wool with his flick
whilfl the n:en a'-e flinging it, and tiut the mixture
f^iould be perfedi, they muft all have diilributed
their wool at one and the fame time. The fatSlor
then mixes it again, and gives it to the carders.
The carding makes a perfe«5l mixture, (o »hat
r.o particular colour is to. be diftinguilhed, ar.d it
appears of one uniform colour; it is afterwards
fpun, the cloth manufactured, and brought to the
mill. The i'r.portance of this mixture being
exactly made is ealily conceived, for if thefe colours
were unequally ciflriLuted, the cloth would appear
full of blots.
As in the compofiiion of thefe mixtures it is
not pcffible to judge exactly of the effetl which
niay be produced by the combination of all thefe
colours
THE dyer's assistant. lyr
colours In different proportions, I fliall give a
method of making a proof in fniali, that a colour
formed after this manner by a known proportional
mixture, it may be executed in great, and be cer-
tain that the colour of the fluff will be equal to that
of the pattern.
CHAP, xxviir.
OF THE METHOD OF PREPARING THE PATTERN
FELTS, OR MIXTURE FOR AN ESSAY.
THIS little work is very fimple and very ufe-
ful, as it will fiiovvT in an hour what a mixt
cloth will be after it is m2nufa6tured, and even
when it is entirely drcfled. For this purpofe, wool
of different colours are taken, and after having
weighed each exactly, the mixture is made with
the fingers in the proportion which is judged fuf-
licient, but the whole in a very fmali quantity;
fo that the mixture being made, it mny not exceed
the hignefs of the fill. This wool is then moifien-
ed with a little oil, and carded feveral titr.es with
ft^nail cards, till all thefe colours are well incorpo-
rated together and perfcdly well mixt. This wool,
which is extremely open and of the fquare form of
the card, is folded four times, and gently prefied be-
tween the hands. It is then plunged into a flrong
foap water, and putting it again between the hands,
it is ftrongly preffed at different times, ftriking
fornetimes one hand on the other. It is then
gently rubbed betwixt the two hands, which hardens
the wool by contrading it 2II manner of ways, and
making it occupy lefs fpace. It is then dipped again
in the foap water, a!;d continued to be felted, until
it hiS acquired fQtne confidence, and that it becom.es
H 2 like
I'Z THE dyer's ASSISTAN'T.
like felt, and pretty near the fame confiftence as the
corrtmon cloth. This felt is then a true copy of
what tlie cloth will be after its manufacturing ; for
vhen it h:s been well felted, that is, that the
wool has been equall)' and caremijy extended un-
der the hand con.ii g from the card, it is as equal
and as fmcoih as the cloth itfelf czn be. To finifh
it alfo as perfectly as the cloth, after it has been
wafhed to take oft the foap, it is dried and put
between two papers, and preft with an iron fome-
what hot: by this means it acquires a luftre which
n-;akes it appear like a cloih which has been entirely
creiTed.
If the colour of the felt is approved of, the mix-
ture in great is made for the cicih, by following
the fame proportions exactly, and it will cer-
tainly be like the pattern, for not only the wool of
different colours are as entirely miixt and clofed one
to the other in the felt as in the cloth, but the foap
which has been made ufe of to felt it, has pro-
duced th^ fame cffcci as that which happens to the
cloth in the fulling-mill, for there are feveral colours,
and particularly thofe that have been browned, that
15, in whofe compoHtions there are fliades of black
and grey, which Icfe in the mill part of their brown-
ing, fo'that it muft always be d)ed of a deeper
colour than intended to be after finiftiing : this de-
fect of foiidity in the browning does not hinder it
from ftanding very well the acVion of the air, but
it is eafily fpotted by acid liquors, as has been be-
fore {aid. The colours that have been faddened
in the woad or indigo vat are not liable to this,
they fcarce !ofe any thing in the mill. The felt
produces the f:ime effect, and it Is certain that the
fluff will not !• fe more in great at the mill than the
felt did with foap; confequently this preliminary
operation oi the felt may be looked upon as a furc
guide
THE DYER*S ASSISTANT. 1 73
guide for the choice and aflbrtment of wool In mixt
cloths.
Thefe patterns are made ftill better with black
foap, but it gives them a difagreeable fmeil, which
is not eafily taken off by repeated wafliings.
The felts, when made, may be dyed for fluffs,
in which it is required that one colour fhould cover
the other, for then, after the ftuff fliould have been
mixt with the fame colours as the feit, it might be
dipt in the fame dye through which that had beea
paffed, and by this means it would be of the fame
colour as the felt ; but this is not to be done to the
ftufF till it comes from the mill, has been Ihecred,
and nothing remains but to drefs it. This method
will be of great ufe when it is a mixt cloth in whicii
cochineal has been ufed, for it faddens too much
and fpoiis at the mill ; fo that when it is ufed in
mixt rtufls, a frelh liq^uor muft be made, in which
the cloth muft be dipt, when it requires no more
drefling than that which is given to cloth dyed
white after it is come out of the dye.
CHAP. XXIX.
POLISH RED.
BEFORE I enter upon the colours of the leffcr
dye, I fhall give the procefs of a very excel-
lent colour, called Pollfh red.
If you would dye forty pounds of wool this
bright and holding colour, boil ten pounds of nut
galls, in a copper fufficiently large, an hour and a
half i then cool the liquor with cold water about
ten degrees under a boiling heat, becaufe the mad-
der fliould not boil, and add beft madder in pro-
portion to the fhade required, from fourteen to
H 3 twenty
i;4 THE dyer's assistant.
twenty pounds. V.'ork thefe ingredients with the
wool for two hours with long poles, that it may
dye in ali parts ahke. Rince it well, and you
have the true polifti red. If you would have a
dark colour, ufe a little aflies. Obferve to have the
wool well fcoured. This procefs v/iil hold good
In cloth and other things.
THE
THE
DYER'S ASSISTANT,
PART IL
CHAP. I.
OF THE DYING OF WOOL BY THE LESSEH DYE.-
Obferved in the beginning of this Treatife, that
the ciying of woo), or woo'lea ftuffs manu-
fadured from it, wese c'lftinguifhed by the great
and lefTer dye. The French regulations have
fixed what the quahty of the wool and fluffs are to
be, which are to be dyed by the great or lefTer dye.
This diftinftion has been founded on this principle,
that fluffs of a certain value, and which generally
conflitute the upper part of clothing, fhould
receive a more folid and lafting colour than fluffs
of a low price, which would be dearer and become
lefs faleable, were they obliged to be dyed by the
good dye, as the good dye is a great deal more ex-
penfivetban the leifer, and that ftuffs of low price,
which are permitted to be dyed by the lefTer dyr,
are generally ufed to make linings, fo that they are
little expofed to the action of the air, and if th.ey
are put to other ufes they are Toon worn out, on ac-
H 4 count,
176 THE DVEK's assistant.
count of the wesknefs of their texture ; and cofi-
fequently t!\ere is no neceffi'v for their colours
being fo ialting as th^t ct a iluff of 2 rr.uch longer
duration.
I have related in the prtceciing treaiife, v.ith the
greateft exaclrefs and precifion in my power, the
method of executing by the good dye all in-aginable
colours ; I (hall do the fame in that which concerns
the ;e;Ter dye, and fha.l lay down the ir.ethod of
making the lame colours with other ingredients
th.an I have hitherto fpcken of, and which, though
tliey have not the foJidity of the iiril, often have
the advantage of yielding mere lively colours j
beSdes which, the greater part give a fnaocther
colour, and are worked with greater facility than
the irgredients of the good dye.
Th.ei'e are the advantages cf thefe fubftances
which are called falfe ingrec.ents, and thcugh it is
to be vvifhed that their ufe was not fo general, it
iruil be agreed that they have their utility for Auffs
lei's txpcfed to the air, or whofe colour does not
flard in. need of a long duration. I might alfo
add, that the colcurs are naoft comrrcnly forted
with greater eafe, and with more expedition, in the
leiTr dye th'n can be dene in the great.
I ih'-ll n^t follow the fan:e order fcr this kind of
dve as I did for the good, ilnce in this no primary
colours are known. Few ferve as a grourid fcr
ethers : the greatefl part do not srife from a com-
bination cf two or feverai fixple colours, in
fhort, th.ere are colours, fuch as the b'ue^&c. which
are feidom or never made i.i ihe lefler dye.
This is the crc'er which I propcfeto follow, and
ihali firll: fet forth the names cf ail the ingrecienrs
which rar-iculariy belong to the ielTer dye, and then
give the method of ufmg each of t'-.efe ingredients,
and ihe extradicn of ail the co-ours they can yield.
It
THE dyer's assistant. I77
It win be found that feveral of thefe ingredients
produce fimilar colours, (o that it would have beea
impoflible to have treated of them feparately, with-
out tiring the reader with tedious and troublefome
repetitions.
The ingredients are flock or goat's hair mad-
dered, archil, logwood, brafil, fuftic, roncou,
grains of Jvignon, turmeric, or terra merrita. t
Ihall not here fpeak of the fanders or loot, though
thefe ingredients particularly belong to the lefler
dye ; I have already given the manner of ufing
thefe laft.
GHAP. IT.
OF THE BYING OF FLOCK OR GOAT's HAIR.
THERE are two preparations very different-
one from the other in the dying of flock :
the firft is with madder, and belongs to the great
and good dye; the fecond is to diflblve it and make
ufe of it ; this belongs to the leffer dye The
dying with flock was formerly permitted in the
good dye, but was rather on account of its being-
extradled from madder, than by any experiment
that had been made concerning its durability, I
tried it with great attention, and found it beyond
any doubt that there is no colour that reufts the air
lefs. It is certainly fcr this reafon that it >vas
reftrained to the lellerdye in the nev>^ regulation of
France in 1737. Yer, as by the fame regulation,
it is not permitted to the Dyers of the lelTer dye to
ufe madder, nor even to keep it in their houfes ;
it has been enaded, that only the Dyers of the
great dye fliould be fuftered to madder flock, and
thefe of the leffer dye to diffolve and ufe ir.
H 5 This.
Iy8 TK£ DYER S ASSISTANT.
This maddering of fiock ought to have found z
place in the foregoing Treatife, but that 1 chofe
rather to clafs together all operations that have any
necelTary connection, than to ftick too fcrupuloufly
to that difTinction of the great and lefTer dye, which
is the particular obje£l of the civil government of
that art, and which upon fomeoccafions might have
made me fall into fome obfcurities, or run into
continual repetitions j befides, the government of
dying is not the arc confidered iti itfelf.
To madder the flock or goat's hair, four pounds
cf either of them is cut and well feparated, that
the dye may penetrate the better. It is boiled two
hours in a fufficient quantity of four water ; then
it is drained for an hour, and put into a middling
copper, halt filled with water, with four pounds of
roach alum, two pounds of red tartar, and one
pound of madder. The v.hole is boiled for fix
hours, putting in hot water as the liquor waftes ;
it is left all night and next day in this liquor ; the
third day it is taken out and drained in a ba&et.
Some Dyers let it remain eight days, but it often
happens that by this delay in a copper vefTel it is
tarnilhed by the liquors corroding a part of the
copper J a middling copper is then filled to the two-
thirds with hah four water and half common
water, and when the liquor is ready to boil, eight
pounds of m.adder, v.-ell cut and crufhed between
the hands, is added. When the madder is well
iriixed in the liquor, four pounds of flock or hair
is put in and boiled for fix hours ; it is then
well wafhed, and the next day it is maddered a
lecond time after the fame manner, only putting
in tour pounds of madder infiead of eight, which
were before ufed. After this fecond maddering, jt
is 'veil wa(hed and dried i it is then almoil black
j^rj fit for ufe.
It
THE dyer's assistant. 1 79
It appears by this operation, that four p:5undsof
flock or hair is loaded wich thirteen pounds of the:
dye of madder, yet there ftili remains fome Dye in
the liquor, which is then called an old maddering,
and which is preferved for ufe on certain occafions,
as in tobacco, cinnamon colour, and feveral others.
When the flock is thus maddered by the Dyer o^
the great dye he felis it to Dyers of the lefl^r, who
have (hen the liberty to difTjlve and ufe it ; this is;
liTe common method, which has many diffecultieSj
and is known but to few Dyers. Madder is here-
by made fine.
'About half an hour after fsven in the morning,.,
fix pails full of clear water are put into a middling,
copper, and when the water is lukewarm, five
pounds of pearl-afhes are put in :.. the whole is
boiled tiil eleven, and the. liquor is then confider-
ably diminifhed, (o as to be held in a lefTer copper, ,
into which it is emptied, obferving firft to let the
dregs of the pearl- aflies fubfide, that none but the
clear may be ufed.
A pail fuM of t'lis liquor is afterv^ards put into
the middling copper, having firrt fcoured it well,.
and a little fire made under it; the four pounds of
maddered flock are fcattered in by degrees, and-
at the fame time a little of the lukewarm and
faline liquor of the fmall copper is added to keep
down the boiling, which rifes from time to lime to
the top of the copper, in which the operation is :
performing.
Wlien all the flock and the liquor of the little -
copper are put into the middling one, a p-ai! fail of v
clear water is put on the dregs of the pearl-aihes
remaining in tr.e little copper. This water ferves
to fill the middling one as the liquor in it evapo-
rates. All this flock melts, or is diiTjlved by the
actijn of the pearl- a'hes, and after the firil half
H.6. hour
iBo THE DYEk's ASSISTANT.
hour, not the leaft hair is to be perceived. The
liquor is -then of a very deep red. The whole is
then boiled without any addition, ti,l three in the
arrerncon, thst tl:e whcle diffoluiion of the flocks
may be the more exacily performed. Then a llick
is plscetl upcn the copper, and upon this ftick is
placeJ a pail of fermented urine, in which pail a
I'mall hole has been previoufly made towards its
lower part, and a little ftraw put into ir, that the
Drine may very ilowly run into the copper ; whilft
it is running, the liquor is made to boil flrongly,
and this urine makes good what may be loft by
evaporsticn. This operation continues five hours,
during which time three paiis fuil of urine are dif-
charged into the copper, being made to run fafter
when the boil is (Wronger, than when moderate.
It is here to be obferved, that, on account of the
iinall quantity of fiock in the experiment which I
lay down here, five pounds only of pearl- alhes are
ordered ; for when thirty pounds of fiock are dif-
Ibived at ore time, which is the common cuftonv
of the French Dyers, they put twelve ounces of
pear!-2(hes to each pound or flock.
During the whole time of this operation, a ftrong
volatile Imell of urine is emitted, and there fwims
en the furface of the liquor a brown fcum, but
much more fo after the addition of the urine. The
liquor is known to be fufficient'y done when this
xifes no more, and that the boil rifes but gently,
that is what happened to the operation now related,
at eight in the evening. The fire is then raked
our, the copper covered, and thus left to the next
day. Patterns had been taken at different times of
the colours of the liquor from three to eight in the
evening, by dipping in fmall pieces of paper : the
firrt were very brown, and they became continually
lighter, and united themfeives more and more, in
proportion
THE dyer's assistant. i8|
proportion as the volatile part of the urine a£led on
the colouring parts of the liquor.
Nothing now remained but to dye the wool ia
the liquor thus prepared, and which is called melt-
ing of flock ; this is the eadeft work belonging to
the Dyer. A quarter of an hour before the dying
is begun, a little piece of very clean roach alum is'
put in, and the copper is well raked to melt it.
As this liquor which was in the middling copper
had been covered the whole night, and the firi" had
not been put out, the liquor was ftill fo hot as not
to fuffer the hand. The cleareft was taken out
and brought into a fmall copper, with a fufficient
quantity of lukewarm water, fome wool dyed
yellow with weld was dipped in it ; it immediately
became of a fine orange, bordering on the flame
colour, that is of the colour called nacarety and
known to the Dyers by the name of nacaret of flock,
becaufe it is commonly made with melted flock.
Twenty hanks of white wool were dipped one
after the other in the fame liquor, beginning by
thofe that were to have the deepefl: ground, and
leaving them longer or ftiorter in the liquor ac-
cording to the fllade required. An affortment was
made after this manner from the nacaret, or bright
orange red, to the cherry colour. It ought to be
obferved, that in proportion as the liquor was con-
famed, frefli was taken from the middle-fized cop-
per, great care being taken not to ftlr the fediment
St the bottom ; a little fire was alfo kept under
the fmall copper, to keep the liquor always in the
fame degree of heat. The wool is thus dipped
until the whole liquor is ufed, and all the colour
drawn out. But the lighter colours could not be
dyed in it ; for when the colour of the liquor is
once weakened, as it ought to be for thefe colours,
it is generally loaded with filth, which would take
off the brightnefs required in thefe fhades.
The
1^2 THE DYIR's assistant.
The following is the method of msking fhades
lighter tlisn the cherry colour. A cojjper is filled
with clear water, and five or fsx hanks of wool
d\ed of lije deepeft dye from the flock, that is,
from the fiiade that immediately follows the
nacarat, are put in. As foon as the water boils, it
takes out all the colour, the wool had, and it is' in
this frelh liquor that the other wool that is to be
dyed is dipped, from tliC cherry colour to the paleft
ficfh rolour, obferving always to begin by the
deeped (hides.
I^.Ioft of the Dyers who do not knov7 how to
melt the fiock, or who will not give themfelves
that trouble, buy fome pounds of this fcarlet of
flock, which they ufe after this mjnner, to make
all the liihter ih^des, which, as hiS been faid, is
dene with much eafe. This operation (hows what
little dependence can be put on the felicity of a
colour that pafles fo qui:kly in boiling warer. And
in fa<5>, it is one of the worft colours there is in
dyi.ig, and on that account the new. regulation has
taken it from the great dye, and permits it in the
leiler for the re^fons above rsentioned-
Thus a very bad colour n.ry be had from an
insredient which, of all thofe tliat are ufed in dying,
is perhaps the bei^ and the mcfl curable ; yet when
this hair, dyed with ail the neceffary precautions to
infure the colour as much as poiTible, ccmes to be
ciSblved or melted in a liquor of pearl-sfhes, its
colour, by acquiring a new luflre, lofes all i;s foii-
dity, and can only be ranked in the number of the,
faifell dyes.
it may appear that the little foiidity of this
cclour proceeded from the woo! !ia\ing no prepa-
ration, and retaining no f-lt be/ore its being dipped
in the diiTolved fleck ; but I found that this was
iiQt the caufe : for 1 dipped in this liquor woo]
boiied
THE dyer's assistant. 1 83-
boiled as ufual, and other woo! differently prepared,
without finding that the colour of tiie latter had.
acquired any more folidity; the luftre was iefs, that.
is, it came cut more faddcned than the wool that
had been dyed in.it without any preparation.
Though i have faid that wcio! receives no prepa-
ration before its being dyed in a difTolution of
flock, it is ncverthelefs neceflary to fulphur thofe
that are to make clear Ihades, for that gives them
a great brightnefs and luflre, as the difTolved flock
is applied on a ground a great deal whiter than it
would be without the vapour of the fulphur, which
cleanfes it of all its hhh. The fame thing is done
for the light blues, and for fome other colours j
but this operation is feldom made ufe of but for
wool intended for famples or tapeftry.
Sulphu7'big of Wcol.
The Dyers do not do this, becaufe of the flink-
of the fulphur, or rather to avoid the trouble.
Ncverthelefs, to give an idea of it, the white wool
is fufpended on hoops or perches in a clofe room,
and under this wool chafHng-diflies are placed with
lighted coals, on which powdered fulphur is caft.
The room- door is afterwards fhur, that the fmoke
may be the longer retained and acl on the wool,
which is to remain till it is entirely whitened; it.
ie then called fulpliured wool; and this is thie pre-
paration it muft receive to give a brightnefs to
the rofe, cherry, and fle(h colours, which are made
from the difiblution of flocks.
^he Theory of the Dljfoiution of Flock.
The reafon why from an ingredient, fuch ?,s the
root of madder, perifhable colours are produced.
from
184 THE over's assistant.
from diflblved flock, Is not difficult to affign. In
the firfk operation of maddering the flock, the red
of the madder was fixed in the hair by the prepa-
ration of alum and tartar as much as pofTible, but
as it is overloaded with this colour, it is eafy to
conceive that the fuperfluous colouring atoms
being only applied on thofc which already filled
the pores of this hair, thefe alone are really re-
tained in the pores, and are cemented by the falts.
The hair thus reddened by the madder fo as to be-
come almoft black, would lofe a great deal of the
intenfity of its colour, if it was boiled in any
liquor, was it even common water ; but to this
water, pearl-aflies are added in equal weight with
the flock already dyed, which is to be melted in it;
confequently there is a very ftrong lixivium of fixed
alkaline falts made. I have already faid in another
place, in the foregoing Treatife, that very flrong
alkaline leys deftroy the natural texture of almoft
all animal fubftancc-s, as alfo gums and reflns ;- in
(hort, that an alkaline fait is their difTolvent. In
the prefent operation, the lixivium of the pearl-
aflies is very concentrated, and very acrid, and
confequently in a flate to melt the hair, which is
an animal fubftance, which it does very quickly,
and with a ftrong fermentation, which fliows itfelf
by the flrong and violent elevation of the liquor ;
confequently it deftroys the natural texture of each
cf thefe hairs, and the fides of the pores being at
the fame time broken and reduced to very minute
parts, thefe fides having neither confidence nor fpring
to retain thefe falts, and the colouring particles that
were llicking to them. Therefore the animal par-
ticles of the hair, the colouring parts of the mad-
der, the faline parts of tiie liquor, and the alkali
cf the pearl-aflies, are all confounded together, and
form a new mixture, which cannot afford a laf^ing
THE dyer's assistant. 185
dye, becaufe from thefe faline parts mixed toge-
ther there cannot be formed a fufficient quantity
of falts capable of cryftalization, and producing
moleculas, which can refift cold water and the rays
of the fun. In (hort, it could not form a tartar of
vitriol, becaufe the alkaline fait is in too great a
proportion.
To rouze the deep and overloaded dye of the
madder firft applied on the flock, and after con-
founded by the melting of this hair in the mixture
already fpoken of, putrified urine is added in a con-
fiderable quantity ; this is a further obftacle to
cryftalization ; confequertly wool not prepared by
other faits, and dippe j in a liquor thus compofed,
can only be covered by a fuperficial colour, which
finds no prepared pores, or any thing faline in thofe
pores, which may ce'.nent the colouring atoms ;
therefore fuch a dye muft quit its fubjedl: on the
leaft effort of what nature ibever it be.
But wool prepared by the liquor of tartar and
alum, does not take a more lafting colour, in the
liquor of the meki.'d flock, than wool nut prepared
by thefe falts ; for a liquor which abounds with
fixt alkaline falts attacks the tartar left of the pre-
ceding preparation in the pores of the wool. This
tartar changes its nature, and from being hard to
diffolve, as It was Ipefore, it becomes a foluble
tartar, that is, a fait that difiblves very eafily in the
coldeft water.
It may perhaps be objedled, that particles of
alum remain in the pores of the prepared wool,
that from thefe particles of alum, as well as from
a portion of the fame fait which is put mto the
liquor, reddened by the melting of the flock, the
alkali of the pearl-afhes mulT: fornr\ a tartar of
vitriol, which, according to my principles, ought
to fecure the dye.
Tq
i86 THE dyer's assistant.
To this T anfver, that the urine i)inders the
co.Tibination of thefe two falts, which is r.eceffary
for the foriT.aricn cf the tartar of vitriol ; if even
this hindrance did not exill, the quantity of this
fa!t, which I have named bard in another place,
could not be fufficient to ccnient the colour m the
pores of the wool, or put them in a itate to retain
the colouring atoms. Further, tlie (bsrpnefs of
the alkaline falts in this liquor, which is cspabJe of
entirely diiTolving the hair boiled in it, would
equally be able to diflblve the wool, were it boiled
as the fiCrck wys. But yer, though a degree of
I.eat is not given to the liquor, which would be
neceflary for this total deftruction, it is eafily con-
ceived, that if the fum of the deftroying aciicn is
not the fame, at leiil a psit exifts, which is iliH
fufficient to corrode the fides of the pores of the
wool, to enhrge thetn greatly, and to render them
unfit to reuii-. the cclsuring atoms; to this may be
added, that the hair is melted in the liquor, and
confequently mixt with the colouring parts of ths
madder in a great quantity j that ihefe are hetero-^
geneous parts, which prevent the immediate con-
ta(Sl of the fame colouring parts, and that from all
thefe obftacles taken together, the colour muft be
rendered lefs durable and lefs holding than any of
the lelTcr dye. This, experience fufficiently proves,
for if a f^ain of red wool dyed in this manner, be
put into boiling water, the colour will be taken cS.
entirely.
CHAP.
THE dyer's assistant. 187
CHAP. III.
OF THE MANNER OF USING ARCHIL.
ARCHIL is a foft parte, of a deep red, which
being fimply diluted in hot water affords a
number of different fhades ; there are two kinds,
the moft common which is not fo fine or fo good,
is generally made in Auvergne, of a lichen or fort
of mofs, very common on the rocks of that province:
it is known under the name of Archil of Auvergne,
or Land Archil. The other is a great deal finer
and better ; it is called the Archi! of Herb, or of
the Canaries, cr Cape Verd Archil ; it is prepared
in France, England, Holland, and other places.
The workmen who prepare this herb Archil,
make a fecret of the preparation, but the particu-
jars may be found well related in a Treatife of M.
Pierre Antoine Mkhsli^ which bears for title, Al^ya
Plantarum Genera^ therefore I fliall upt hejre\ givtj
the method of preparing it.
When a Dyer wants to afTure himfelf that the
Archil will produce a beautiful effetSt, he mufl
extend a piece of this pafte on the back of his hand
ryid let it dry, afterwards wafhing his hand with
cold water. \i this fpot remains with only a little;
of its colour difcharged, he may judge the Archil
to be good, and be afTured it will fucceed.
I ftiall now give the method of ufmg the pre-
pared archil, but I fliall only, treat of that of thei
Canaries, and juft mention the difference between,
it and that of Auvergne. A copper is filled with
clear water, and when it bepns to be luke-warm,
the proper quantity of archil is put in and v;ell
ftirred: the liquor is afterwards heated almoft to
foiling, and the wool or ftuffs are dipt without any
preparation
i88 THE dyer's assistant.
preparation, only keeping thore longer in that are
to be deeper.
When the archil yields no more colour at this
degree of iieat, the l:quor is made to boil to extract
the remainder; but it it is archil of Auvergne, the
colours drawn after this manner will be fadder than
the firft, on account of the boiling of the liquor.
The Canary archil, on the contrary, will lofe
nothing of its brightnefs, if even the liquor boiled
from the beginning. This lafV, though dearer,
yields much mere dye, fo thst tr.ere is mere profit
in making ufe of it, befides its fuperiority over the
other in beauty and eoodr.efs cf colour. The
natural colour which is drawn both from the one
and the other archil, is a fine gris-deJin, border-
ing on the violet. The violet, the panfy, the
amaranth, and fevera! like colours are obtained
from it, by giving the ft'jft' a grounJ of blue more
or lefs deep before it is palled through the archil.
It muft here be cbfcrved, that to have the clear
fhades of* thefe colours as bright as they ought to
be, the wool ought to be fulphured, as was faid iti
the foregoing chapter, either before it is dipped in
the archil, for the gris~de-lin^ or before it is dyed
blue for the violet and other like colours
This way of uHng archil is the fimplef^, but the
colours that proceed from it are not lafting. It
may be imagined that the colours would be better
by giving a preparation to the wool previous to its
being dyed, as is practifed in the great dye, when
madder, cochineal, weld, &cz. are ufed ; but ex-
perience fhows the contrary, and I have ufed the
archil on v/ool boiled in alum and tartar, which
did not refill the air more than that vJhich had re-
ceived no preparation.
There is, notwithftandirg, a method of uling
the Canary archil, and giving it almoft as much
duration
THE dyer's assistant. iSq
duration as the moft part of the ingredients of the
good dye ; but then its natural colour of gris-deJm
is taken off, and it acquires a red or fcarlet, or
rather a colour known under the name of baftard
fcarlet. The colours of the kermes or Venetian
fcarlet, and feveral other fhades that border on the
red and the orange, may alfo be drawn from it,
Tliefe colours are extradted from the archil by tlie
means of acids, .and all thofe that are thus made
may be looked upon as much more hfting than the
others, though ftridly fpeaking, they are not of the
good dye.
There are two methods of extracting thefe red
colours from the archil. The firft is by incor-
porating fomc acid in the compofition itfelf that is
made ufe of to reduce this plant to a pafte (fuch as
is known to the Dyers under the name of archil).
I have been afTured that it may be made violet and
even blue, which probably is done by tlie mixture
of fome alkalis, but 1 muft confefs I could not
fucceed in it, although I made above twenty trials
for that purpofe. I fhall now proceed to the fecond
method of extradling from archil a beautiful and
pretty lailing red, and which 1 executed four times
with fuccefs.
Bajlard Scarlet by Archil.
Prepared archil from the Canaries is diluted as
ufual in warm water, and a faiall quantity of the
aommon compodtion for fcarlet is added, which is
as has been ihown in the preceding treatife, a folu-
tion of tin in aqua-regia^ weakened with water ;
this acid clears the liquor immediately and gives ic
a fcarlet colour. The wool or fluff is then to be
dipped in this liquor, and left till it has received
the (hade required. If the colour (hould not have
brightnefs
IQO THE dyer's ASSISTANT.
brigbtnefs enough, a little tnore of the compcntion
muft be put in, and pretty near the fame method
riiuft be followed zs in ^be dying of common
fcarlet : I tried to muke it in two liquors as the
fcariet, that is, to boil the ftuff with the compo*
fition, and a fmall quantity or archil, and alter-
wards to fini'h it wish a greater quantity of both,
and I fu7ceedcd equally; but the operation is
longer after this manner, and I have fomeiimes
made as fine a colour in one liquor. Thus the
Dyer may take his choice of either of thefe
methods.
I cannot exadlly fix the quantity of ingredients
in this operation. Firfl, As it depends on the
fhade that is to be eiven to the ilaiJ. Second,
As it is a new procefs in dying, I have not had
fufficient experiirents to know with exacVncfs the
quantity of archil and compofition which ought to
be ufed : the fuccefs z'Co depends on the greater or
lefi'er acidity of the compcfition. In fliort, this
method of dying with archil is fo eafy, that by
making tv^o or three trials in fmall, more know-
ledge will be acquired from it th.an I could teach
in a large volume: I muft only add, that tlie more
the colour drawn from this ingredient approaches
the fcarlet, the more Isfting it is. I have made a
great number of (liades from the farr.e archil, and
which confequently oniy differed by the greater or
]efs quantity of tiiC compc fition, and I always
fouiid that the more tl;e arcliil went from the
natural colour, the more lading it became, fo thst
when 1 brought it to the fliade known by the name
of bsflard fcarlet, it withliood the action of the air
and elTay proof almoft ss well as that which is
commoi^ly made vith cochineal or madder.
U too much compofition be put in the liquor,
the wool will become of an orange colour, and
difatrei;abie.
THE DYER S ASSISTANT. I9I
x!ifagreeable. The fame thing alfo happens with
cochineal, io that this is not an inconvenience
peculiar to this dye; befides it is eafily avoided by
proceeding gradually in the addition of the compo-
fition, ar.d by putting a fmall quantity at firft.
I have tried the different acids in this fcarlet
con:ipcrition, but none fucceedcd well ; vinegar
did not give a fufficient rednefs to the liquor, and
the fluff dyed in it only took a colour of lees of
wine, which even was not more lafting in the air
than tliat of the archil in its natural flate, and other
acids faddened the colour. In (hort, it appears
that (as in fcarlet with cochineal) a metallic bafe
extremely white muft be united to the red of the
archil, 2nd this bafis is the ca'x of tin. I have re-
peated the fame operation with the archil of
Auvergne, but the colours were not near fo fine or
fo good.
CHAP. IV.
OF LOGWOOD OR CAMPEACHY.
TiIEcampeachy wood, known under the name
of logwood, is of grest ufe in the lefTer dye,
and it were to be v.ilheJ that it was not ufsvi in tl^.e
good dye, for the colour which that wood produces
lofes its brightnefs in a fhort time, and even dif-
appears in fome places oi^ being; expofcd to the air ;
the low price of this drug in fome meafure tolerates
its ufe ; but the principal reafon of uiing it is, that
by the means of different preparations and falts it
affords a gr^at number of colours and ihades,
which ate not eafily made by the ingredients of the
good dye alone. Yet it is pollible, as I have faid
before, to make all thefe colours without the help
of
192 THH dyer's assistant.
of logwood ; therefore it was proper to forbid the
ufe of this ingredient in the good dye.
Logwood js neccfiary to foften and velvet the
blacks ; it is this velvet hue that gives that excel-
lency to the Sedan blacks. I fhall now add fome
little matter concerning the other colours in which
this wood is ufed, and I Ihall obferve, that when
any wood v.hatfoever is ufed in dying, it muft be
cut into fmall fliavings or chips, and put into a
bag, that it may not ftick to the wool or fluffs j
for the rough chips will not only tear the gocds,
but blot them in thofe places to which they ftick.
Logwood is ufed with galls and copperas for all
the ftiades of grey which border en the flate or
lavender, the pigeon grey, the lead grey, and
fuch like. To make thefe, a copper is filled with
clear water, and a proper quantity of galls is added ;
this mull be proporiioned to the quantity of fluffs
to be dyed, and to the depth of tlie ihade required.
A bag of logwood is put into this liquor, 2nd when
the whole has boi'ed and cooled, the fluff is dipped
in it, adding by little and little fome copperas )ire-
vioufly difToived in water. I cannot fix any exact
proportion of ingredients, as the Dyers of the leffer
dye are not accuftomed to weigh theai , they work by
the eye, and their bufinefs being to match low-priced
iluffs for linings of cloths for which they have the
patterns, they firfl make them lighter than is wanted,
and fadden them by adding copperas till they are
come to the fhade required. If thty find there is
not loowood fufficient, they add more ; they do
the fame when they have feveral fluffs to pafs
through tlie fame liquor, when they find the wood
they have given has yielded all its dye. This work
is not difficult, and only requires practice to judge
pretty nearly the quantity of ingredients to be ufed,
and to judge by the fluff, while svet, whether,
when
THE dyer's assistant. I93
when dry, it would have the intended colour,
which is done by ftrongly wringing the end, and
blowing on it ftrongly : by this means, the greateft
part of the humidity, which has by twirting been
brought to the furface of the ftuff, is driven off;
then for an inftant the colour is feen pretty nearly
fuch as it will be when dry ; but this muft be done
by a quick eye, for in a moment after the adjacent
moifture is communicated to this dry place, and
then you mky, be deceived.
A pretty fine violet is alfo made "with logwood,
by firft boiling the wool as ufual with alum and
tartar, and afterwards, pafllng it through a liquor of
logwood in which a little alum is diflblved. But
it is made much finer by bluing and alwming the
fluff firft, then dipping it in a liquor of Brazil
mixt with a little logwood j this violet, though of
the ieffer dye, is much better than the former, be-
caufe the blue ground always fuftains the colour,
and makes it more holding.
The logwood alfo affords a blue colour, but it
lafts fo ill that this wood is feldom u fed for dying
blue. Yet if from curiofity you wifti to make a
trial, you need only prepare a liquor with log-
wood, and mix a little Cyprus or blue vitriol in it,
and dip the fluffs in this without any other prepa-
ration, and you have a fine blue.
By the fame means, green may be made in the
fame liquor. For this purpofe, logwood, French
berries or grains of Avignon and verdigrife are
put into a copper ; this mixture gives the liquor a
beautiful green colour ; the wool may be then dipt
to the height defired, and may be of any defired
fhade, by putting in more or lefs of the logwood
and Avignon grains. But this colour is not better
than the blue, and both ought to be excluded .^
art of dying : I have given the procefs, merelner in.
1 of, and
ia
194- THE DYER S ASSISTANT.
I might omit nothing which came to my knoA'-
iedpe concerning the art.
The u/e to which logwood is mcft commonly
applied in the ieflcr dye is lor plumb, prune colours,
purpies and their (hades.
This wood joined with gails, readily gives all its
colours to wool that has a ground of blue ; it is
faddened with a little green copperas, which browns
them, and by this means fome Ihades may be eafily
obtained which are much more difficult to hit in
the great dye, as the different degrees of faridening
are much more diiEcuit to match in a blue vat,
than by the help of the iron of the copperas. But
thei'e colours fade away very foon in the air, and in
a few days a great difference is feen between the
pans that were expofed to the air and thofe that
vrere covered.
Having experienced, as I faid in the preceding
chapter, that the fcar.et compofition changed the
coicur of the archil, and made it more lafting, I
tried what eife<5i it might produce on the logwood;
but what appeared (insular to me was, that what-
foever quantity of compofition I put into this
liquor, it rever loft its violet colour. Being
deiircus to put this to a further trial, 1 dyed a piece
of cloth with logwood, and put into the liquor a
quantity of compofition, pretty near equal to that
which I would have put for an equal dofe of archil :
the clot . took a pretty good violet colour. This
cloth was put in the weainer for twelve fuinmer
days, and the colour proved no better than if no
compofiion had been ufed. By adding a fmall
quantity of cr)ftals of tartar to another liquor
comp fed as the rormer, I had a mere lafting co-
jour, but confiuerably different.
ana
Jhi
THE dyer's assistant. . i.g$
The Raven Grey.
The raven grey on worfted or fluffs Is perfornned
in the foliowing manner.
In a copper fufficiently large for fixty pound
weight, diffolve eight ounces of alum, and work
the worfted on fticks very quick for the fpace of
half an hour at a boiling heat ; then take it up, and
add to the fame liquor three or four pounds of cop-
peras, and work it at a boiling heat for half an
hour longer ; while this is performing, the worfted
muft be wafhed, and one pail full of logwood
chips muft be boiled in another copper about
twenty minutes ; the worfted muft then be turned
very quick in the logwood decodion about half an
hour, when it muft be taken out, and returned about
ten or fifteen minutes in the deco£lion of alum and
copperas, as at firft. This laft operation is abfo-
lutely neceftary, as it contributes much to the
beauty and luftre of the colour, by difcharging the
gTofs particles of the logwood, and leaves a beauti-
ful raven grey. This procefs will hold good for
thin goods and coarfc cloth, but a lefs proportion
•of logwood will do.
CHAP. V.
OF SAXON BLUE AND GR£EM.
I Place here among the lefler dyes that called
Saxon blue and green, which has been for fome
time greatly in fafhion, being finer and brighter
than any blue or green hitherto kn'^-
the greater or lelTer dye, b"^
— wn either In
-J -« bears no proof, and
in
J96 THE dyer's assistant.
in twelve days expofition to the fun, it lofes a great
part of its colour.
Blue on C/othj Stuj^y or yarn.
Put into a glazed earthen-pot four pounds of
good oil of vitriol, with twelve ounces of choice
indigo, very finely ground and fitted j ftir this chy-
mical mixture very haftily and frequently in order
to excite a fermentation, and break the lumps with
a ftick vvhofe bark has been ftript off". It is
cuflomary with fome Dyers to put into this com-
pcfiticn a little antimony or faltpetre, tartar, chalk,
alum, or other things j but I find it fufficient to
mix the oil and indigo alone, and the colours will
be finer, for thofe neutral falts deflrcy the acid of the
vitriol and fully the colcur. In twenty- four hours
it is fit for ufe ; then a copper of a good fize is to
be filled with fair water, (into which one peck of
bran is put in a bag) and made pretty warm ; the
bran, after yielding its flour, muft be taken our,
and the chymic mixed well with water, in a piggin,
is put in according to the (bade required, having-
firfl put in a handful of powdered tartar j the
cloth, &c. is to be well wet, ^nd worked very
quick over the wynch for half an hour. The
liquor mu(\ be not be made hotter than that for
madc'cr red. Obferve, the hot acid ot the vitriol
would caufe the blue to incline to green if too
much heat was given. The cloth, fiufF, or yarn
muft be turned in this liquor very quick for half
an hour, and having been previcully very well
fccured, the colour will be brilliant and fir.e ; it is
belt after walhing to dry this colour in the (hade.
Chymic
TH^ Desk's assistant. '97
Chymicfor Grteiti
Eight ounces of m(jigo is fufficient for four
pounds of oil for green, becaufe this mixture
works green (and would even dye a pea- green if
ufcd very hot) and therefore would not do for blue.
The indigo is better fufpended ia this mixture thaa
in the former, and is fuppofed to go further in
green. The goods, being well fcoured are to be
aluined ; for every twenty pound weight, two
pounds of alum is to be put into a copper with
fair water, and the goods boiled gently an hour
and a half; whilft this is performing, another cop-
per is got ready, in which fuHic chips are put to
Isoil ; if there are any to dye pea-green it is befl: to
<lye them fitil, not as pra(fi:ired in Tome dye-houfes,
for this great reafon, that when feveral parcels of
goods have been through the fatne liquor, there
remains a fcurf which the acid ext rafts, and that
is fure to ftick to the next parcel that goes in; and
if pea- green was the laft, the colour would be
dulled thereby. The greens (pea- green excepted)
are to be turned about ten minutes in the alum
liquor after they are dyed, in order to clear them
of the ftuff, and render the colour brighter. The
alum liquor is not to be hotter than that the hand
may be borne in. Obferve, if the alum was put
in (as is cuftomary in fome dye-houfes) with the
fiiftic, it would retard its working fo well ; for
alum, being an acid, v^'ould difcharge if ufed
with, as well as prepare for fuftic.
The reader will perhaps think me too tedious
in this procefs, and fay (becaufe he is not ufed to
this method) it is a fuperfluous work; but be af-
fured that the time loft in the procefs will be faved
in the fuftic, if attention is paid,
1 3 CHAP,
158 THE dyer's assistant.
CHAP. VI.
OF BRAZIL WOOD.
UVDFR the general name of Brazil wood is
coTiprehended that: of Femarr.bouc, St.
i^iartha, Jspsn, and forre cihers which I Ihall not
here dirtinguilh, fince they are sll ufed after the
fame manrer rcr dying. Some give greater va-
ricy cf cciours than others, or finer ; but this often
proceeds frorr. the parts of the wood being more or
itfs expofed to the air, or that forre parts of it may
be retted. The foundeft or higheft in colour are
to be chofen for dyin^.
A;1 thofe woods give a tolerable good colour,
either uf^d alo e, m;xt with logwood, or with
other colouring ingrciiients. It has been fhown,
th't. in ihe falfe or biftard vioiet, a little Brazil
v?2S added to the Icgwood ; but in the vinous greys,
cr 'htfr >^hich have a caft of the red, a great deal
rrcre i? uf d. Sometimes cn!y, a fmal! quantity
or gs )s js fut with the Brazil, and it is faddened
with corp ras ; oftrn a)fo with logwood, archil, or
fcoif oilier mgredient, it is added according to the
ih?de, frcm whence it is rot pcC:^!e to give any
fixt ;u!e t r this kmd cf wo'k, en accrunt of the
inSi.ite var^ty ct (hades which are obtained frotn
thefe different mixrures.
Tne aturi^i col ur of the Brazil, and for which
it is m ft ufed, is the fiile fear et, which appears
f.r.e ^rd brivhi, but ;sr interior to the bnghtnefsof
the ccc> inea! cr gum lacque.
To extra*^ the colour from this wood, the
harceft water, fuch as wij! n-'t diflbKe fcap, muft
be raade ufe of tor river water has not nearly fo
gcoii an effccij it cvR. be cut into chips and
boUed
THE dyer's assistant. I99
boiled for three hours; th? water is then taken out
and put into a large veflel, and frefh well-water
put on the wo 'd and boiled again for three hours;
this water is added to the firft ' ■
This liquor, which is called juice of Brazil,
muft be old and fermented, and rope like an oily
wine before it is fit for ufe. To extrafl a bright
red from it, the fluff mud be filled with the falts of
the common liquor of preparation, but the alum
muft predommate, for the tartar alone, and alfo
four water, greatly fpoils the beauty of this colour:
in (hort, acids are hurtful to it, and difTolve its
red colouring part. Four ounces of alum for
each pound of ftufF is to be added to the liquor,^
and only two ounces of tartar^ or even lefs. The
wool is to be boiled in it for three hours ; it is
then taken out and gently wrung, and thus kept
moift for eight days at leaft, that by the falts being
retained it may be fufficiently prepared to receive
the dye. To dye with this, one or two pails full
of the old juice of Brazil is put into a convenient
copper, and well fcummed. Dip the ftufF which
has remained eight or ten days moiftened in the
preparing liquor, and it mufl be well worked in it
without making the liquor boil too ftrongly, until
it be fmoothly and equally dyed. Care muft be
taken to wring a corner of this fluff now and then,
as I have already faid, to judge of its colour, for,
whilft wet, it appears at leaft three fhades deeper
than when dry. By this method, which is fome-
what tedious, very bright reds are made, perfeftly
imitating certain colours the Englifh fell under
the name of Campeachy fcarlets, which, by the
proof of dyes, are not found to be better than this,
only that they feem to have been lightly maddered.
This red, of which I have given the procefs,
and which is no where elfe defcribed, withftands
1 4 the
20« THE dyer's ASSISTANT.
the weather three or four months in the vBJnter,
"^'ithcut lofing an^ of its ihade; en the contrary, it
faddsns, and tfecns to acquire a ground, but it
does not ftand the proof of tartar.
Some Dyer$ of the grear oye ufe Brazil to
heighten the red of madder, either to fave this
root, or make its red more bright than ufual.
This is done by dipping in a Brazil liquor a fluff,
begun with the madder, but this kind of fraudulent
dye is exprefsly forbid by the French regulations,
as well as any mixture of the great dye with the
\^:U hecaufe it can only ferve to cheat, and to
pafs for a fine madder red, a colour whi.h in a few
days ioles all its brightnefs along with the (hstie,
which has been drawn from the Brazil, prepared in
the common manner.
The lirft colour extracted from this wood is not
cf agGod dye, probably becaufe it is an indigefted
fap, and whofe colouring partjcles have not been
fufiiciemly attenuated to be retiined and fuiEcienfly
fixt in the pores of the wool dyed in it. Whea
thefe firft grcfs parts of the colour have been car»
ried ofF, thofe that remain in fmall quantity are
:l|ner, and mixing themfelves to the yeJiow partSi
which are furniftied by the pure woody parts, the
red refulting from it is more iafting.
By the means of acids, of" wh^t kind {oev(^, all
the red colour of this w.-od is carried olf or dii-
appears ; then the ftuft that is dyed by it takes a
hind colour, rnore or Jeis deep in proportion to the
time it is kept in the liquor, and this colour is of a
vtrygood dye. . .
it is faid that the Dyers of Ambolfe have a
raethod of binding the Brazil colour in this man*
r.cr j after their ftufTs lightly maudtrei.have been
pafied through a liquor of. weld, and conlequently
boiied twice in ajum and tartar, they put arienic
and
THE dyer's assistant, 201
and pearl-afhes in the juice of Brazil, and it is
aflerted that this colour then refifts the proofs ; I
tried this procefs, but it did not fucceed.
When a very bright red is required from the
Brazil, I know by experience that it is polTible to
infure the colour drawn from it after fuch a man-
ner that, having expofed it thirty days to the rays
of the futntner's fun, it will not cliange ; but thsrfe
kind of colours are coffee and chefnut purples, i
To make thefe, I keep the fluff moiflened in its
liquor in a cellar for fifteen days ; this liquor is
prepared as for the reds, of wJuch 1 have heretofore
fpoken J I fill a copper to two-thirds with well
■water, and the remaining third up with Brazil
juice, to which I add about one ounce of Aleppo
galls in very fine powder to every pound of fluff,
and tlien boil it one or two hours, as I want the
fhade to be in deepnefs ; the ftuff is aired from,
time to time, and when it has taken the colour
defired, it is well cooled before it is walhed. This
fluff being brufhed, the nap layed, and cold-prelTed,
comes out very fine and very fmooth.
CHAP. VIL .
OF FUSTIC^ .
THE fuftic gives an orange colour that is not ■
lafling; it is. commonly ufed in the lefTer
dye, like the roots or huiTss or walnuts, v/ithoiu
boiling the ftuff, fo that it is cifily managed. It
is often mixed with waiiiut hu(ks.and weld, to make ;
to'^acco and ciniia nan colours, and other • like :
fhades. But this wood is a very bad ingrediear, .
for its. colour being expofed to the air fora very
I 5 _, fhort £
202 THE DYER S ASSISTANT.
fhcrt tirre lofes all its biightnefs and the greateft
part of its yellow fhade.
If a fluff dyed with fuftic is dipt in the woad vat,
a difagreeable olive enfues, which does not refift
the air, but fcon lofes its colour.
I have already faid that fuftic was made ufe of
in Langueiioc for making of lobfter colours for
foreign markets, as it greatly faves cochineal. For
this purpofe they mix weld, fuftic, and cochineal,
vith a little cream of tartar, in the fame liquor,
and the ftuff boiled in this liquor comes out of a
lobfter co'our, and accordingly, to the quantity of
thefe different ingredients, it becomes more or lefs
red, tending to tre orange. Alti-iough the method
of mixing together ingredients of the good with
thcfe of the Kffer dye ought to be condemned, yet
in this cafe, and for this colour only, which is in
ccnfiderable demand in the Mediterranean, it ap-
pears that the fuftic may be tolerated ; for having
attempted to make the fame colour, with only the
ingredients of the good dye, I did not get a mosc
lafting colour*
The change which the air produces in the lobfter
colour made wih fuftic is very fenfiVile, but it is
not fo difagreeable as the changes incident to
feversl other colours j for all the fhade goes off and
weakens at once, fo that it is rather a diminution-
than a change of colour; whereas the lobfter
colour made with the yellow wood becomes of a
'ZhsTTj colour.
CHAP.
THE dyer's assistant. 2.03
CHAP. VIII.
OF. ROUCOU.
THE roucou or racourt is a kind of dry paffe
brought from America ; this ingredient gives
an orange colour pretty near the fame as the fuftic,
and the dye is not more lading. However it is
not by the proof alum that the quality of the
roucou is to be judged, for this does not in the
leaft alrer its colour ; on the contrary, it becomes
finer and brighter, but the air carries it off, and
effaces it in a fhort time ; foap has the fame effef^>
and if is by this it muft be tried according to the
inftrudtions on thefe kind of proofs The place
of this ingredient is eafily fupplied in the good dye
by weld and madder mixt together, but roucou is
made ufe of in the JeiTer dye after the following,
manner.
Pearl -afhes are diffolved in a copper with a fuf-
ficient quantity of water ; it is well boiled for one
hour, that the aflies maybe totally diffolved ; then
as many pounds of rou ou as there are of afhes,
are added ; tiie liquor is well raked and fuffered to
boil tor a quarter of an hour; the wool or ftuffs
that are to be dyed are then dipt without any pre-
paration^ except dipping thegn in luke-warm water,
that the colour may fpread itfelf equally.
They are left in this liquor, working, them con-
tinually, until they are; come to the defu^ed fhadCi,
after which they sre.waflied and dried..
The roucou is often mixt with other ingredients
of the leffer dye, but I cannot give any inftruc-
tions on thefe mixtures, as they depend on the
fhades you wifh to make, and are in themfelves
attended with no difficulty,
16 IJuy* .
204 THE dyer's ASSISTANT.
I bsve boiled the (luff in alum and tartar before
I dyed It with roucou, but though the colour was
more lafting it was not fufficientlyfo to be deemed
of the good dye. On the who'e, the rcucou is a
very bad ingredient for dying of wool, and is not
made much ufe of, for it is dear, and other ingre-
dients, that are cheaper and hold better, are ufed
in its ftead.
Wool dyed with roucou, and afterwards dipt
in the indigo or woad vat, takes a reddifh olive^
which in a very (hort time becomes almoft blue
in the air, the colour given by the roucou difap-
pearing.
CHAP. IX.
OF THE GRAINS OF AVIGNON,
THE grains of Avignon are but little ufed in
dying, they give a pretty good yellow, but
net iafting, no mere than the green, produced by
dipping in the fame liquor a fluff.that has a ground
of blue. To work it, the fluff muft be boiled in
alum and tartar as for weld. Then a frcfh liquor
is made with thefe grains, and the fluff is dipt^
and mufl lie in it longer or fhorter, according to
the fhade that is wanted. There is no difnculty
in working of it, fo I need only obferve that it
ought never to be ufed but when all other ingre-
<iient5 for dying yellow are wanting ; this muft
feldcm hsppen, as they are neither fcarce ncr dear.
CHAP,
THE DYER*S ASSISTANT, 405
CHAP. X.
OF TURMERIC.
THE turmeric is a root that is brought from
the Eaft Indies ; that which comes from
Patna is mofl valued. The Indian Dyers call it
hakli ; it is aifo called concome in the regulations
of M. Colbert. It is reduced to a very fine
powder, and ufed pretty near the fame way as the
grain of Avignon, but in much lefs quantity, on
account of its yielding a great deal ot dye. It i3
fomewhat better than the other yellow ingredients
fpoken of in the preceding chapter, but, as it is
dear, it is a fufRcient reafon for feldom or never
ufing it in the lefler dye.
It is fometimes ufed in the great dye to gild the
yellows made with weld, and to brighten and
orange the fcarlets ; but this pradice is to be con-
demned ; for the air carries off all the colour of
the turmeric in a fhort tinne, fo that the gilded yel-
lows return to their firft ftate, and the fcarlets
brown confiderably ; when this happens to thefe
fort of colours, it may be locked on as certain
that they have been falfitied with this ingredient,
which is not iafting.
I omit fpesking of fafFron, which may alfo be
made ufe of to dye yellow, but which 1 believe is
not ufed ; firft, on account of its being dear; and
fecondly, becaufe its yellow is ftill wbrfethan thofe
of the two preceding ingredients.
This is all that remains for me to fay on the in-
gredients or the iefler dye, they are only to be ufed
for common and low-priced ftufFs. It is not that
I think it impoffible to extra^^: Iafting colours
from theno, but then thofe colours will not ftridly
' • be
ao6 THE dyer's assistant*
be the fame which thefe Ingredients yield naturally,
or by the ordinary methods, as that gum and
aftridlion which is wanting in them muft be added,
and then they are no more of the fame quahty ;
confequently the rays of light will be differently
refleded, and the colour will be different.
CHAP. XL
OF SlLVhR GREY.
FOR pearl colour or filver grey, to dye forty-
pounds of woollen cloth or worfted, boil ia
a fmall copper four pounds of logwood chips for
half an hour, add to it fix ounces ot pearl-aflies,
and mix them well together ; while this is per-
forming, (having the- worftc' well fcourcd and
parcelled in hanks on the dyf-iiicks) heat a great
copper with clean water, ai.d put one peck of
wheat bran in a bag into the c -pperj let it remain
with often ftirring abi ut an hour j when the water
begins to toil, put in three cunces of alum,
which will throw the fiitr. or the water to the top,
when it a ufl: be taken off with the bowl j wafli
the worfled m rhis liquor about forty minutes,
when it n uft be tuken up, and three or fcur pails
of the logwood !iqu< r added to the alum water.
The gO"<1s. muft then be worked very quick for
forty minutes, when you n»ay add more lot wood
liquor if you fee occafion. Great care mufi be
taken a:ter walhing to dry this colour in^the fhade,
or it will pcHiaps chafige.
Some dye this. colour in one liquor and boil the
logwood in a bag. This procefs is lefs tedious,
but I firefer the former. It will be well for the
Dycrtot^kc notice, that if too great quantity of
slum.
THE dyer's assistant, 207
alum or afhes are ufed herein, the colour will be
!mperfe«Sl ; for the alum, if ufed in a right propor-
tion, gives that bloom to the good which is necef-
fary for a pearl ; if too much, the contrary would
happen. The alhfs alfo, if ufed ir» too great quan-
tity, would make the colour too red ; this may feem
a contra didtion, becaufe the aflies are in alkali, but
but pradice will teach the truth.
Another excellent Silver Dye,
For twenty pounds weight of cloth or worfted^
eight ounces of alum and twelve pounds of fenu-
greek muft boil with the goods halt an hour ; then
take it up, and add one pound of pearl-afhes and
eight ounces of Brazil wood ; boil them gently
with the goods half an hour j rince it and you have
a. beautiful colour.
INSTRUCTIONS
ON THE PROOF OF
DIED WOOL AND WOOLLEN STUFFS,
AS it has been found that the methods pre-
fcribed for the proof of dves, by the thirty-
feventh article of the French regulations for the
Dyers in the good dye, of cloth, ferges, and other
woollen ftuffs made in 1669, and by article 220 of
the general inftrudions for the dying of wool of
all colours, and for the culture of drugs and ingre-
dients therein ufed made in 1671, were infufficient
for an exa<5l judgment of the goodnefs or falfity of
feveral colours, that tliey might fometimes \tid
into error, and leave room for difputes, different
tjjperiments have been made by the French kingls
order
£08 TKS dyer's ASSISTAKf".
order on wool defigned for the manufacture of
tapeftry to afcertain the c^egree of goodnefs of
each colour, and the moft convincing proofs of
each.
For this purpcfe, fine wool was dyed in different
colours both in the great and lefier dye, and ex-
pofed to the air and fun during a proper time ; the
good colours kept tl>emfelves perfectly, and the
falfe ones were carried cff more or lefs according
to their bad quality ; and as a colour is only to be
accounted good inafmuch as ii refirts the adlion of
the air and fun, this proof (erved 33 a rule to decide
the goodnefs of different colours.
After this, feveral proofs were made on the fame
wool whofe patterns had been expcfed to tl.e air
and fun, and it was in-. mediately found that the
fame trials could not be indifferently ufed i'l prov-
ing of all colours ; for it often happened that one
colour, known to be good by expofi!ion to the air,
was confiderab'y changed by the effay proof, and
that a falfe colour ftood the fame prcct.
Thefc experiments exploded leiVion juice, vine-
gar, four waters, and ftrong waters, as it was im-
poflible to afcertain the degree of acidity of thefe
liquors ; and it appeared that the fureft method is
to ufe ingredients with common watefj whofe ef-
fects are always equal.
In following th:s plan, it has been judged necef-
lary to divide into three claffes ail the colours in
which wool is dyed, either m the great or JeiTer ,
dye, and to fix the ingredients that are to be made
ufe of in the effay proo's of the c>. lours, compre-
hended in each of t{:efe three claffes.
T he colours comprehended in the firft clafs ar«
to undergo the proot of Romati alum, thofe of the
fecond w.iih while foap, and thofe of the third with
led tartar^
But
THjB dyer's Assistant. 20:9
But It is not fufficient to be afTured of the good-
nefs of a colour by ufingin the proof, ingredients
vwhofe efFed^ may always be equal ; it is alfo necef-
fary, that not only the duration of this trial be
exacStly determined, but even the quantity of water
fixed ; for the proportion of water confiderably
augments or dimimlhes the adivity of the ingre-
dietits which are put into it. The method of pro-
ceeding m thefe different proofs fliall be fet forth in
the foHowing articles :
Article I.
The proof of Roman Alummufihe made as follows:
Qnt? pound of wator and half an ounce of alum
are to be put in an earths rnveffel or pan. Tliie
veflel is to be placed on the fire, and when the
water boils ftrongly, tlxe wool is put in and left to
l>9il for iiye minuies, after which it is to be taken
out and waflaed in cold water j the weight of tlije
pattern of wool muft be a drachm cr thereabouts,
II.
When feveral patterns are to undergo the proof
together, the quantity of water and aluai is to be
doubled, or even trippled, which will no ways
change the ftrength or effedt of the proof, if you
ohferve the fame proportion of water and aluin,
fo that for each pound of water there may be one
ounce of alum.
III.
To render the effecSl of the proof more certain,
care muft be taken not to try together wool of dif-
ferent colours.
2IO THE DYERS ASSISTANT.
IV.
The Proof with White Soap is to be made after the
following Manner.
' To one pound of water add two drachms of
white fcap, and place the vefiel on the fire; ftir. it
with a ftick that the fo^p may be thoroutihly rtif-
folved , when it is fo, and the water boils ftrongly,
the woollen pattern is put in, which is to boil for
five minutes.
V.
When feveral patterns are to undergo this proof,
the fame method is to be obftrved as in the fecond
article, that is, to put to each a pound of water
two drachms of foap.
VI.
The proof with red tartar muft be exactly the
fame, with the fame proportions as the proof with
alum, taking care that the tartar rs finely powdered
and well diffolved in the water before the pattern is
put in.
VII.
The follov/ing colours are to be proved with
Roman alum, viz. crimfon of all fhades, Vene-
tian fcarlet, flame colour or common fcarlet, cherry-
colour and other fhades of fcarlet, violets and ^;,r-
de-lin of all (hades, purples, lobfter, pomegranate,
flate greys, lavender creys, violet greys, vinous greys,
and all other like fhades.
VIII.
If, contrary to the orders of the regulations on
dying, any ingredients of the falfe dye have been
made
THE dyer's assistant. 211
made ufe of for fine wool dyed in crimfon, the
cheat will be eafiiy found out by the proof of alum,
for it changes the fine crimfon a little on the vio-
let, tliat is, makes it border a little on the gris-de-
lin, but it deftroys the higheft (hades of the baftard
crimfon ; thus this proof is a fure method to dif-
tinguifh falfe crimfon from fine.
IX.
Scarlet of kermes or grain, commonly called
Venetian f arlet, is no wife prejudiced by this
proof ; it raifes the fire-colour fcarlet to a purple,
and gives a violet colour to the lighter (hades, fo
that they border on the gris-de-lin^ but it carries
off the greate(t part of the falfe Brazil fcarlet, and
brings it to an onion- peel colour; it has yet a
more fenfible effea on the lighter fhades of this falfe
colour.
The fame proof carries off almoft entirely the
fcarlet of flock and its fliade.
X.
Though the violet is not a fimple colour, but
formed of blue and red (hades, it is'tieverihelefs
of fo much confequence as to merit a particular in-
quiry.
Tht fame proof with Roman alum has fcarcely
any effedt on the fine violet, whereas it confider-
ably alters the falfe ; but it mufi be obferved, that
It does not always equally carry off a great part of
the (hade of the falfe violet, becaufe this colour
has fometimes a ground of woad or indigo: now
this ground being of the good dye, is not carried
off by the proof, but the rednefs goes off, and the
brown (hades become ,ahnoi\ blue, and the pale
ones of the colour of lees of wine.
XI
112 THE dyer's assistant,
XT.
With regard to half fine violets, forbidden fcy
the prefent regulations, they muft be ranked in the
dafs of falfe violets, and do not ftand the proof.
XII.
The fine grls-di-lin may be known from the
fialfe by the lame method, the difference is but
trifling] the gris-de'lin of tnegood dye lofes a little
lets tiian that ot the falfe.
XIII.
Fine purples entirely refift the proof with alum,
whereas the falfe entirely lofe the greaieft part of
their colour.
XIV.
Lobfter colours and pomegranate ftrike on the
purple after the proof, if thev have been made
with cochineal, whereas they will pale greatly if
fuftic has been ufed j the ufe of which is prohi-
bited.
XV.
Blues of tlie good dye will lofe nothing in the
proo*^, whether of woad or indigo; but thofe of
the lefler dye will lofe the greateft part of their
colour.
XVI.
The flate greys, lavender greys, violet greys, and
vinous greys, lofe ahnoft all their colour if they are
of the falfe dye; whereas they psrfeClly maintain it,
if of the good.
XVII.
THE oyer's assistant, 213
xvir.
The proofs of the following colours are to be
made with white fcap; yellow, jonquiH or lemon
colour, orange, and all the fliades of yellow ; all
green (hades from the yellow green or light green,
to the cabbage or parrot green » the reds of madder,
cinnamon, tobacco, and fuch like.
XVIII.
This proof perfe£lly (hows if the yellows and
other (hades derived from it are of a good or falfe
dye ; for it carries off the greateft part of their
colour if they have been made with grains of
Avignon, roucou, turmeric, fuftic, or faffron, whofe
ufe is prohibited for fin« dyes, but it po ways
impairs the yellows made with favory, Dyers'
wood, yellow wood, weld, or fenugreek.
XIX.
The fame proof will alfo (how the goodnefs of
-greens, as thofe of the falfe dye lofe mo(\ of their
colour, or become blue if they have a ground of
woad or indigo ; whereas thofe of the good dye
lofe almoft nothing of their (hade, but remain
green.
XX.
The reds of pure madder lofe nothing by the
foap proof, on the contrary become (iner, but if
Brazil wood has been ufed, they lofe their colour
\n proportion to the quantity of it in the compo-
fition of the dye.
XXI.
Cinnamon, (n\iff colours, and others of this
caft, are fcarcely altered by this proof, if of the
3 good
214 "^"^ dyer's assistant.
good dye, but they Icfe confiderably if roucou, fuf-
tic, or diffolved flock has been made ufe of.
XXII.
The proof of alum would be of no ufe, and
might even lead us into errors with regard to feve-
ral colours belonging to this fecond clafs, for it no
ways alters the fuftic nor the roncou, which never-
thelefs do not withftand the adlion of the air ; on
the other hand, it carries off a great part of the
favory and of the Dyers' wood, which are very good
jellows and greens.
XXIII.
All the brown or root colours Ihould undergo
the proof with red tartar. The Dyers call by this
name all colours that are not derived from the five
primary colours; they are made with rinds and
roots of walnut, alder-bark, fumach or roudoul,
fantal and foot ; each of thefe ingredients gives a
great variety of (hades, which are all comprehended
under the general name of brown or root colour.
XXIV.
The above-namtd ingredients in the preceding
article are good, except the fantal and foot, which
are not quite fo good, and make the woi 1 ftifF
when too great a quantity is ufed, fo that all this
proof can (how on thefe kind of coiouis, is, whe-
ther t'lo much fantal or foe)t has been put into
them ; in this cafe they Icfe cot fiderably by the
pr< o. with tartar; but if made with other ingre-
dients, W' h only a moderate quantity ot fantal or
foot, they Ibnd a Rreat deal better.
XXV.
THE dyer's assistant. 11^
XXV.
Black IS the only colour which cannot be com-
prehended in any of the three clafles above-men-
tioned, and a much more active proof muft be
made ufe of. To know if the wool has had a
deep ground of blue, conformable to the regula-
tions, the proof is to be maie in the following
manner : take a pint or pound ot water, one ounce
of tartar, and the fame quantity of Roman alum
well powdered ; boil ir, and then put in the pattern;
let it boil ftrongly for a quarter of an hour, and af-
terwards wafh it in cold water; you will thea
eafily know if it has had the proper blue ground,
for if fo, the wool will remain of a dark blue almoft
black i if not, it will turn very grey.
XXVI.
It is common to brown certain colours with
galls and copperas ; this operation is called brown-
ing, which is to be permitted in the good dye;
but as this may caufe a particular efre6i in proving
of thefe colours, it is to be obferved that although
the proof liquor appears loaded with dye as the
browninti is carried off, the wool muft be reputed
of a good dye if it ftiil prelerves its ground ; if on
the contrary it lofes it, it is then deemed to be of
the falfe eye.
XXVII.
Al'hough the brownmp, which is made of galls
and topper s, if ot the good dye, yet, as it hardens
the wu I, «t IS brtter to make ufe of the indieo or
woad vat in uicierence.
XXVIJL
2l6 THE dyer's assistant.
XXVIII.
Common greys made with galls and copperas
are not, to undergo any of thefe proofs, becaufe
thefe colours are of the good dye, and are not
otherways made ; but it is to be obferved, that
they are firft lobepaffed through the liquor of galls,
and afterwards through a fecond liquor, containing
the copperas, which muft be much cooler than the
firft, for by this ihethod they are made finer and
more lafling.
TH€
THE
DYER'S ASSISTANT.
PART III.
ADDITIONAL ARTICLES.
CHAP. I.
OF FLOWERS.
MONG the infinite variety of colours which
glow in the flowers of plants, there are very
few which have any durability, or wliofe fugitive
beauty can be arreted by art, fo as to be applied
to any valuable purpofes. The only permanent
ones are the yellow. The red, the blue, and all
the intermediate (hades of purples, crimfons,
violets, &c. are extremely perilhable. Many of
thefe flowers lofe their colour on being barely
dried ; efpeciiliy if they are dried flowly, as has been
ufuaily directed, in a Hiady and not warm place.
The colours of all of them peri(h, on keeping,
even in the clofeft vefleis. The more haflily they
are dried, and the more perfectly thiiy are fecured
from the air, the longer they retain their beauty.
The colourmg matter, extracted and applied on
certain bodies, is ftill more peri Chable : oftentimes
it is changed or defiroyed in the hands of the
operator.
K Of
2l8 THE dyer's assistant.
Of Blue Flowers.
The colour of many blue flowers is exJ^cS^ed
by infufion in water, but there are feme from
which water gains only a reddifli or a purplifh
hue. Of ihofe that hsve heai tried, there is not
one wjiich gives any blue tincture to fpiritu us
liquors : fome give no col 'ur at all, and fome a
red( ilh one T he juice prefl out from the frelh
fit wers is for the mft part blue.
The blue juices and ir.fufions are changed red
by al! acids ; the inarine acid feems to llrike the
moft finid red Th.e flowers themfefves, macer-
. ated in acid liquors, impart alfo a deep red tinifiurc.
Alkalis, both hxt and volatile, and lime water,
change them to a green. Thofe inl'ufions or juices,
which have notlang of the native colour of the
flower, TufTer the fame changes from the addition
of acid and alkaline liquors j even when the flowers
have been kfpt till their colour is loil, infufions
made from them acquire flill a red colour from the
cne, and a green from the other, though in a lefs
degree than when the lowers were frefh.
The red colour proouced by acids is Scarcely
mere durable than the original blue, applied upon
other bodies, and expofed to the air, it gradually
def.enpraTes into a faint purplish, and at iengih f if-
appears, leaving hardly ^^ny fiain behind. The
green produced by alknlis changes to a yellc«%-,
vhicn dots not fade fo foon. The green by lime
water is more pernianent and mor« beautiful.
Green lakes, prepared from thefe flowers by lime
water, have been uled as pigiricnts by ihe painter.
The flowers cf cyar.ub have DCs-n greatly re-
comnienv;ed, as aflfv^rding elec!ant and durable blue
pigments ; but i nave never been able tn extrift
from ihem any blue colour at ai). They retain
their colour indeed, when haftily drie^i, longer than
fome
THE dyer's assistant. llQ
fome other blue flowers, but ihey cooimunicate
nothing of it to any kind ot menftruu.n. Infu-
fions ot them in watery, fpiritunus, and oily liquors,
are all more or lefs of a reddilh cad, withrur any
tendency to blue. Alum, which is laid to hei^^htea
and prcferve their blue cclour, changfs it like th?.t
of other blue fiuwers, to a purplifti red ; acids to
a -deep red ; alkalis and lime water to a green.
Solution of tin, added to the watery infufion^
turns it to a fine crinifon ; on (landing, a beautiful
red fecula fubfides, but it lofes all its colour by the
time it is dry. The wattry infufion, infpir.ffared
to the confidence of an extrat^t made with redinei
fpirit, is of a purplilh colour. The colour of both
extra6ts, fpread ihin and expofed to the air, quickly
fades.
The flowers employed in thefe experiments were
thofe ot the common blue bottle oi the corn-fields;
cyanus fegetum C. B. centauria calycibus ferratis ;
foliolis linearibus integerrimis ; irfimis dcntatis linn,
fpcc.
Red Flowers.
Red flowers readily communicate their own red
colour to watery menilrua j among thofe that have
been tried the^' is not one exception. Thofe of a
full red colour, give to redtified fpirit a'fo a .cep
red tincture, brighter, though fomowhat paler thaa
the watery infufion ; but the lighter red flowers,
and thofe thst have a tendency to purplifh, imparc
very little colour to fpirit, and feem to partake fi'ore
of the nature of the blue flowers thm of the pure
red.
Infufions of red flowers are fuppofcd to be
heightened by acids^ and turned green by alkalis,
like thofe of tlie blue ; but this is far f'roa) being
univtrfal. Among thofe I l!2ve exainined, ti)e
rofe colours and purpiifh reds were all chaneed
K 2 nearly
220 THE dyer's ASSISTANT.
nearly in the fame manner as the blues, but the
full deep reds were not. The deep infufion cf red
poppies is turned by alkalis, not to a green but to
a dufky purple.
Yellow Flowers.
The colours of yellow flowers, whether pale or
deep, are in general durable. Many of them are
as much fo perhaps as any of the native colours of
vegetables. The colour is extrailed both by water
and by fpirit ; the watery infufions are the deepeft.
Neither acids nor alkalis alter the fpecies of colour,
though both of them vary its fhades j acids render-
ing it paler, and alkalis deeper : alum likewife
confiderably heightens it, though not fo much as
alkalis.
Wool or fiik impregnated with a folution of
alum and tartar, receives, on being boiled with
the watery infufion, or decoftion, a durable yellow
dye, more or lefs deep according as the liquor is
more or lefs faturated with the colouring matter.
An infufion of the flowers made in alkaline ley,
precipitated by alum, gives a durable yellow lake.
Some of thefe flowers, particularly thofe of the
chryfanthemum, or corn- marigold, appear (from"
the An Tin£icra Fundamental'! i. publifhed by Stahl)
to be made ufe of by the Germaii Uyers.
In fome of the deep redd fh yeliow, or orange-
coloured flowers, the yell w mattei feems to be of
the fan e kmd with that of the pure yellow flowers,
but the red to be of a different kind trom the pure
red ones : watery menftrua take up only the yellow
and leave the red, which may afterwards be ex-
tracted by recfitied fpirit of wine, or by water
adluated v.ith fixed alkaline fait. Such particularly
are the f^ffron- coloured flowers of carthamus.
Thefe, after tiie yellow matter has becii extracted
by water, are faid to give a red tincture to ley ;
from
THE dyer's assistant. 221
from which, on ftanding at reft for feme time, a
deep bright red fecula fubfides, called, from one of
the natnes of the plant which produces it, faf-
flower, and from the countries whence it is com-
monly brought to us, Spanifh red, and China lake ;
this pigment impregnates fpirits of wine with a
beautiful red tindure, but communicates no colour
to water.
I have endeavourrd to feparate by the fame treat-
ment, the red matter of fome of the other reddifli
yellow flowers, as thnfe of the garden marigold,
but without fuccefs. Plain water extracted a yel-
low colour, and alkaline ley extracted afierwnrds
only a paler yellow ; though the digeflions were
continued till the flowers had loft their colour, the
tindures were nocther than yellow, and not h deep
as thofe obtained from the pure yellow flowers.
The little yellow flofculi, which in fome kinds
of flowers are collected into a compact round difc,
as in the daify and corn- marigold, a^ree fo far as
they have been examined with the expanded yellow
petala. Their colour is affeded in the fame man-
ner by acids, by alkali;, and by alum, and equally
extracted by water and by fpirit
But the yellow farina or fine duft lodged on the
tips of the ftamina of flowers, appears to be of a
diiferent kind. It gives a fine bright yellow to
fpirit, and a duller yellow to water; the undiflbived
part proving, in both cafes, of a pale yellowifh
white. Both the watery and fpirituous tindures
were brightened by alkaline liquors, turned red by
acids, and asain a deep yellow on adding more of
the alkali. 1 know no other vegetable yellow that
is changed red by acids.
TFkiie Flowers.
White flowers are by no means deflitute of
colouring matter. Alkaline lixivia cxtrad from
K 3 fome
222 THE dyer's ASSISTANT.
fome of them a green tinfrure, and change their
C' louriefs expreiTed juices to cne fame colour. But
] have not ohferved that they are turne<l red by
at'u 5. T!ie 3uwers of the common wilJ convcl-
vlIus or bnd-weed, which in al! their parrs are
v.liiic", tive a deep yellow or orange tiniture to
plain wa'cr, which, like tlie tmftures of flowers
v.!iic-h are raturai'y of that co! ur, is rendered
-paler by acids, heightened a liule bv alu n, and
more r( nfl-:^erably by aikaiine fairs. The vapours
of the volatile v)trloIic acid, or of burning fjiphar,
v-hi-h whiten or deftroy the colour or the coloured
fi.wers, make no change in the white.
CHAP. II.
OF FRUITS.
THE red juices of fruits, as red currants,
mulbeniei, elder berries, and Morelio and
b -.ck. cherries, &e. gently iiifpilTated to drynels,
d;iT Ive again almcft total y in water, and appear
neafiy of the fame red colour as at firft, Rect.tied
fpirit extracts the t.nging parucles, leavn^ a con-
fi/ierabi-: portion or inucitaginous matter undif-
i:,\\-t-A : ar.d he.ice the fpirituous tiadure proves
of a bri.'hter colojur than the watery. The r-.d
folutions and the jujces thetrf-lves are fometimes
made dull, and fometimes more flond, by acids,
anJ generally turned purp.ifh by alkaiis.
The colours of ihsle juices are tor the moft part
perifnible. They reiift mited the pov/er of fer-
n.entat.on, ani conti:iue almoft unchang d after
the liquor hss been converted into wine. Bur when
th; iul.;e is fpread thinly on otijer bodies, ex jccated,
and' expcied to the air, the colour quickly alters
and decays : the bright hvely reds change the
fooneft. The dark, dull red ilain from the juice
of the black- cherry, is of coniiderabie durability.
1 lie
THE DYER S ASSISTANT. 223
The fruit of the American opuntia, cr prickly
pear, the plant upon which the cochineal inicdl: is
produce^), is perhaps aa exception : this bright red
fruit, according to Labat, gives a beautitul red
dye. Some experiments, however, made upon the
juice of that fruit, as brought into tngland, did
not feem to promife any great advantage hoin it;
but the particulars I cannot now recoUeii:.
The ripe berries of buckthorn ftain paper of a
green colour. From thefe is prepared the luidUnce
called fap-urcen, a pigment fufHcictitly durable,
readily folubie in water, but not mifcible with oil.
The berries dried whilft green, and macer:ited in
alum-water, are faid to yield a yellow pigment ;
aiid when they liavs grown over- ripe, fo as- to fall
cfF fpontaneuully, a purple or,e. Woollen cloth,
prepared with alum and tartar, receives, on being
boiled with the berries, a pcrifliable yeliovv dye.
The French berries, or grained Avignon of the
French Dvers, one of the moft falfe, that is, the
moft perilhable of the yellow dyes, is the berry of
a fpecies of buckthorn fmaller than that which
gr ws wild among us.
It is fiid that the berry of the Heliotroplum
triccccum^ which grows wild about Mo^itpeliery
ftains paper ot a grten colour, and that this green
turns prefeiuly to a blue: tiat the common blue
paper receives its colour from this juice : and that
the red rags, called turnj l, employed for colouring
wines- and other liquors, are tinctured by the fame
juice, turned red by acids. According to M,
Nijfolle of the French academ.y of fciences (as
quoted by Savarv in his Di^ionaWe de Commerce)
the colouring juice is obtained, not from the
berries, but \xo\n the tops of the plant, gathered in
Augufl, ground in mills, and then committed to
the prefs. 1 he juice is expofed to the fun about
an hour, the rags dipped in it, dried in the fun,
K 4 moiilened
224 THE dyer's ASSISTANT.
inoiftened by the vapour which arifes during the
flacking of quick, lime with urine, then dried again
in the fun, and dipped again in the juice. The
Dutch and others are faid to prepare turrifol rags,
and turnfol in the m?.fs, from different ingredients,
among which archil is a principal one.
In fome plants, peony for inftance, the feeds at
a certain point of maturity are covered with a fine
fhining red membrane: the pellicles of the feeds
of a certain American tree afford the red maffes
brought into Europe under tlie names of annotto,
orlean, and roucou. The red feeds, cleared from
the pods, are lleeped in water for feven or eight
days Or longer, till the liquor begins to ferment ;
then ftrongly ftirred, and llamped with wooden,
paddles and beaters, to promote the feparation of
the red ikins ; this procefs is repeated feveral times
till the feeds are left white. The liquor paffed
through ciofe cane fieves is pretty thick, of a deep
red colour, and a very ill fsricll. 'In boiling it
throws up its colouring matter to the furface in
form of fcum, which is afterwarc's boiled down by
itfelf to a due confidence, and made up, while fofr,
into balls.
The annotto commonly met with among us, is
moderately hard and dry, of a brown colour on
the outfide, and a dull red within. It is with
difficulty acted en by water, and tinges the liquor
only ot a pale brownifn yellow colour. In rectified
fpirit of wine it readily diffolve?, and communicates a
high orange or yellowiffi red. Hence it is ufed as
an ingredient in vsrniflies, for giving mere or lefs
of an orange caft to the fimple yellows. Alkaline
falls render it perfcciiy foiuble in boiling water,
without altering its colour. Wool or filk boHed
in the folution, acquire a deep but not a very
durable orange dye. its colour is not changed by
alum or by acids any mere than by alkalis ; but
wlien
THE dyer's assistant. 225
when imbibed in cloth, it is difcharged by foap, and
deftroyed by expofure to the air.
Mr. Pott, in the Berhn memoirs for the year
1752, mentions -a very extraordinary property of
this concrete. *' With the vitnohc acid, it pro-
** duces a blue colour, of extreme beauty, but with
** this capital defedl, that all Jalts and hquors,
** even common water, deftroy it." The fpeci-
men of annotro which I examined, was not fenfibly
adted on by fpirit of vitriol. It received no change
in its own colour, and communicated none to the
liquor. Nor did any vifible change enfue upon
dropping the acid into tinctures of annotto made
in water or in fpirit.
Labat informs us, that the Indians prepare an
annotto greatly fuperior to that which is brought
to us, of a bright fliining red colour, almcfl equal
to carmine; that tor this purpofe, inftead of keep-
ing and fermenting the feeds in water, they rub
thetn with the hands prcvioufly dipt m oil, till the
pellicles come off, and are reduced into a clear
pai^e, which is fcraped off from the hands with a
knife, and laid on a clean leaf in the fli^de to dry.
De Lacet^ in his notes on Marcgrave's Natural
Hiffory of Brazil, mentions alfo two kinds of an-
notto, one of a permanent crimfon colour, (cocci-
neus) ufed as a fucus ; and another which gives a
colour inclining more to that of faffron. This laft,
which is our annotto, he fuppofes to be a mixture
of the hrft fort with certain rezinous matters, and
with the juice of the root of the tree.
Ximencs reUtes, tiiat annotto with urine ffains
linen of luch a permanent colour that it can never
be wafhed out. Perhaps the firfl fort is meant. Our ■
annotto boiled in urine, imparted to linen a deep
yellowifli red : the ftained linen, hung out in the
air in fummer, in feven or eight days loft: all its
colour and became white ajain.
K's Ci:iAP.
226 THE dyer's ASSISTANT.
CHAP. III.
OF LEAVES.
THE green colour of the leaves of plants b
extracted by redified fpirit of wine and by
oils. The fpiritucus tiniiures are generally of a
fine deep green, even when t e leaves themfelves
are dull col ured, or yellowifh, or hoary. The
colour however feldcm abides 1< ng even in the
liquor ; much lefs when the tinging matter is fe-
parated in a folid form, and expofed with a large
furface to the air. The editor of the IVirttmberg
Pharmacopoeia obferves, that the leaves of acanthus,
brankurfire or bears- t-reech, give a more dura::>le
green tincture to fpirit than thofc of any other herb,
i^lkalis heighten the col(5ur both of the tinctures
and green juices. Acids weaken, deflroy, or change
it to a br»<wnilb. Lime water improves both the
colour and the durability. By means of lime, not
inelegant green lakes are procurable from the leaves
of acanthus, liliy of the valley, and feveral other
plants.
There are very fevs? herbs wlich communicate
any fnare of tl-.eir green colour to water; perhaps
none that give a green of any cor.fiderable deep-
nefs.. It is faid, however, that the leaves of fome
plants give a green dye to wooLen, without the
addition of any other colouring matter; pariicularly
thofe of the wild chervil or cow weed (Myrrhis
fylvefiris feminibus IcevthtHy C. B) the common
ragwort, and devil's bit. The procefs with this
laff, as defcribed by Linnaus (in the Svenfca Acad.
Handle, cirs, 1 742) is pretty remarkable. The
peafanis, he informs us in fome of the Swedifh
provinces, flratify the frelh leaves with woollen
yarn> and boil them about 2s long as h is cuftomary
to boil fifli.
The
THE dyer's assistant. 22;
The whole is fufFered to ftand in the veflel for
a night. The wool, taken out in the morning,
does not appear to l^ave received any colour. The
pot is again made i^ot, and the yarn hun^ over it
upon a Hick, covered with an inverted A\(h t > con-
fine the fteam, for this fteain is l'upp')led to be
efiential to the colour. The yarn is afterwiids
wrung, the leaves taken out of the. boiung .iqujr,
a littie treili water added to the decoction, and the
wool frequer.tiy dipt therein, till it appears fuf-
ficiently coloured.
The ieav s of many kinds of herbs and trees
give a yellow dye to woo! or woo len cloth that has
been previoufly boiied with a folution of alu n
and tartar: weld in particuiar afford- a fine ye. low,
and is commonly made ufe-uf for this nurpofe by
the Dyers, and cultivated in large quaiitities in
fome parts of England. There is no co;aur for
w-hich we have fuch plenty of materials as for
yellow. Mr. Hel'jt obferves in h:s 4rt cie Tcindre^
that all leaves, barks, atid roots whi.h on being
chewed difcover a flight allring-ncy, as the le.ives
of the almond, peach, and pear-trees, afh-bark,
fefpecially that taken '.■ ft' after the lirit nfing ot tne
fap in fpringj the roots of wild patience, &c. yield
durable yellows, more or lefs- beautiful ace jrding to
the length of time that the borling is ■ continued,
and the proportions of alum and rartar in the pre-
paratory liqu.r: tliat a lar^e quantity oi alu a
makes thefe yellows approach to tne elegant yellow
of v/eld: that if the tartar is nade ro pre\'ail, it in-
clines them to an orange: that if the roots, barksy
or leaves be too long boile I, th^ yeiiow proves
tarnifhed, and acquires (hades of brown : t'lat f t
dying with weld, the bell proportions of th.^ fa ts
are, four parts of aium and one of tartar t> iix-
teen of the wool : and that the vvjol prepared with
thefe is to be boiled again with tive or fix li nes its
K 6 quanti:y
22S THE dyer's ASSISTANT.
quantity of weld : that for light (hades, it is
cuftomary to diminifh the alum and oniit the tar-
tar; and that in this cafe the colour is more ilosvly
imbibed, and proves Jefs durable.
Of all the colours or" the Dyer, we have the
fe. veil materials for blue; the mineral and animal
kingc^oms afF^rd none, excepting perlups PrufTiaa
b!ue, whicli Mr. Macquer has lately attempted to
introduce in this" art. The veeetable yields but
two, which are both produced from the leaves of
plants, indjgo and woad.
CHAP. IV.
MR. lewis's history Of MADDER, AND MAN-
NER OF TRtATiSG IT.
MADDER (Ruria Un£iorutn fctiva, C. B.)
i cne of the afpcrifoiious lleiiated plants,
cr of thcfe which have rough narrow leaves, fet i:i
form of a Itar at the joints of the ftalks. Ths
roct, which is the only part :nace ufe of, is Jong
and flender, of a red colour both on tiie outiide and
v.i:!i n, excepting a whitiih pith which runs along
the middle.
This piant was formerly cultivated among us in
great quantity for the u^e of the Dyers, who for fome
time paft have ^een fupp.ied from H haiid and Zea-
land. Its culture is now aeain fet on foot in this
kingdom, unc:er the laudabic encoi:ratemenr oi a
public fcciety. lA'^idex is not like alkanet, and
other exotic plants, thee- lour of which degenerates
in our ciiT»a'e*, for tr.gJfh madder is equal to the
bell that is brought trom abroad.
Aladdcr root gives out its colour both to water
and to rectified fpirit ; the watery tincture is of a
dark, dull red, the fpiritucus of a deep bright cne.
T^aken interrally (for it has f mstin.es been uled
u-.edicinaiiy as an aperient and diuretic; it tinges the
urine
THE dyer's assistant. 229
urine red. In the Philofophical Tranfafiions, and
in the Memoirs of the French Acade^iiy, there are
accounts of its producing a Hke effedl upon the
bones of animals, to whom it had been given with
their food. All the bones, particularly the more
folid ones, were changed horh externally and in-
ternally ta a deep red, but neither the cartilaginous
nor fleOiy part fufFered any alteration. Sotne of
thofe bones, macerated In water for many weeks
togetiier, and afterwards rteepe i and boiled in fpiric
of viK'e, loft nothing of their colour, nor com-
municated any tinge to the liquors.
T he dealers in this commodity make three forts
of it ; madcer in the branch, madder in the bunch
or in the bundle, and madder unbundled.
Madder in the branch is the entire root dried.
This grouted in milis to a grofs pjwJer is the un-
buniUed madder. The bundled or bunch madder
is a powder ot the fi:;er roots, freed from the outer
bark and from tlie pith. It is faid that by keeping
for two or three years in clofe cafks the colour is
improved •, in open veflVls it decays.
Madder imprarts to woollen cloth, prepared with
alu n and tartar, a very durable, though not a very
beautiful red Jye. As it is the cheapeft of all the
red-i-rugs that give a durable colour, it is the prin-
cipal one commo'iy made ufe of for ordinary ItuiTs.
Someti i;es its dye is heightened by the addition of
Brazil wood; and fometimesit is emplojed in con-
junction with the dearer reds, as cochineal, for
demi-fcarlcts and demi-crimfons, Mr. Hellot in-
forms us, that thofe who dye the beft madder reds
are particuiarly careful to keep the liquor of a heat
confiderably below boiling, increafing the lire only
towards the endy fo as to make it boil for a minute
or twojuft ojtoro the cloth is taken out to confirm
the iiye ; a boilmg heat enables water to extract not
only the red, but a tawny or brown;ih matter,
which debafes the red to a dull brick colour.
The
230 THE DYER S ASSISTANT.
The proportion of madder is about half thff
we ght or the cloth. The beft: proportion of falts
for preparing the cloth to receive tlie dye, feems to
be five parts of alum and one of red tartar for
fixt.en of the ftuffj which is to be boiled with
thefe for two hours or longer, then kept moift for
fome days, and afterwards digtfted with the mad-
der.
A variation in the proportion of the falts, varies
the colour cmmunic ted by the madvler, and not
only ihe (hade, bur the Ipecies of colour.
Ir the alum be dininifhed, and the tartar in-
creafed, the r'ye pr-ves a red cinnairion ; if the.
alum be entirely omtited, the red is deftroyed, and
a very durable tawny cinnamon is produced.
On boiling the dyed cloth in weak alkaline ley,
great part of rhe colour is c'elVoyed, and the re-
mainoer appears of a dirty or a kind or fallow hue.
Solution of f'ap, on the oth^r hand, difcharges a
part, and leaves the remaining red more lively than
before.
V' latile alkalis heighten the red colour of mad-
der, but at the fime time render* it fugitive like,
thenifelves Madder prepared with line and urine,
after the manner praciifed for archil, loft its red
colour on attempting to dye with it, and commu-
nicated to the cloth only permanent nur- colours.
If a pure red, as that c cochmea!, be applied on
cloth which has been previoufly dyed blue, and
afterwards prepared tnr receivn;g this red by boil-
ing with aluin and tartar, a purpie or violet will
be produced, according as tht blue or the red pre-
vail. The madoer red has !.•! tins rfT-6f, for as
its colour is not a pure red, but is 'arndhed by the
tawny matter which its woody fi^^res nave in com-
mon with oilier roots, it gives upon blue only a
chelrut dye, more or iefs deep according to the
deepnefs of the blue applied firft.
There
THE dyer's assistant. 231
There are, however, means of obtaining from
madder a fine purple, without the addition of jny
other Colouring f'rug. A piece of white woollen
cloth, weighing half an ounce, was boiled tor half
an hour with ten grains of Roman alum and fix
grains ot cryftals of tartar, and then taken out,
fqueezev, and fuffi.red to cool. Twe ty-four
grams ot bunch madder were added to the fame
liquur ; and artcr the madder harl given out iis
colour, twenty drops of a folurion of bifmuih
(made in fpirit of nitre, diluted with equil its
weight of water; Wi-re dropped in. The cloth
was now dippe.t again, and in halt an hour taken
out, fqueeze<i, and \va(he;i. It appeared ot acrnn-
fon colour, nearly as beauii'ul as ir it had been dyed
with cochineal. To try the eff d. of loading it
further with^the colouring matier, it was returned
into the liquor and boiled for a quarter of an hour
longer: it had now acquired a purple colour fufH-
ciently vivid.
On varying this experiment by keeping the cloth
moift for fome days after the preparation with alum
and tartar, then dipping it in a plain deco<3ion of
madder made as ufual without falts, ami adding,
when it bad gained a bright cinnamon colour, the
fame folution of bifmuth, the dye inftead of purple
proved only a chefiiut.
CHAP. V.
OF FUSTIC.
FUSTIC is the wood of fpecles of mulberry-
tree, growing in Jamaica and Brazil, called
by Sir Hans Sioane^ Morus Fru£iu Firidi Ligno
Sulphureo linSlorio. It is of a deep fulphur yeilow
colour, which it readily gives out both to water
and fpirit. The watsry dtcodion dyes prepared
woollen of a very durable orange yellow: the colour
is
232 THE dyer's assistant.
is imbibed by the cloth in a moderate warmth
without boiling.
Tlie fjftet cr fuftel of the French is a yellow
wood or root very different from our fuftic. It gives
a fire orange eye to woollen, but the colour is ex-
tremely perifhable in the air. The plant grows wild
in Italy and Provence, and is cultivated with us in
gardens on sccount of the beauty of its flowers.
It is called Ven'ia fumachy cotinus cotiaria, cocagriai
citlnus matthioli, C. B.
CHAP. vr.
NEPHRITIC WOOD.
THIS wood is brought from the eaflern coun-
tries in laige pieces, covered with a dark
blackifh bark. The wood is hard, heavy, com-
pa<5^, of a fine grain, of a whitilh or pale yellow
colour on the outfide, and a clufky reddifli brown
in the heart. Of the tree we have no very certain
account.
This wood, particularly the outer pale part, gives
out both to water and to revStified fpirit a deep
tiniiure appearing, v^hen placed between the eye
and the light, of a golden colour; in other fituations,
blue. Kence it is nrrred by Cafpar Bauhinc^ lig~
r.u^n ^eyegrinum^ aquam cceruleam redaen.
Ey this mark it is ealily diftinguilhed from pieces
cf a ciifierent kind of weed, which are fometimes
niixt with it, and which give on-y a yellow tinc-
ture to water.
It is remarkable, that the blue colour of the in-
fufion of nepliritic wood is dertroyed by acids, the
IquLT after the admixture of thefe appearing in all
fituaticns yellow ; and that the addition of alkalis,
either of the fixt or volatile kind, in quantity fuf-
ficient to neutralize the acid, reftores the bluenefs.
No ciher w'oody matter is known that gives any
degree
THE dyer's assistant. 233
degree of blue 'cin£lure, and no other vegetable blue
is known that is thus deftrudtible by acids.
This wood is at prefent rarely met with in the
ihops ; nor is it applied to any ufe, except that
fome have employed it medicinally, and expeded
from it diuretic virtues, whence its name nephritis
tuood.
CHAP. VIL
MR. Ferguson's history of logwood- as a
COLOURING DRUG.
OGWOOD or Campeachy-wood [Lignum
\^_j Brazilo-fimile^ cceruleo tingens^ y. B.) is ihf^
vcod of a low prickly tree, which grows plentifully
about Campeachy or the Bay of Honduras, and has
of late been introduced into fome of the warmer of
the Britilh plantations, particularly Jamsica. it is
a n-ative of the low marlhy places. The wood
comes over in pretty large logs, cleared from the
bark. It is very hard, compact, lieavy, and of a
red colour.
Logwood gives out its colour both to watery
and fpirituous menllrua, but not readily to either.
It requires to be rafped and ground into fine
powder, and boiled in feveral frefh parcels of the
liquors. Rediiied fpirit extradls the colour more
eaiily, and from a larger proportion of the wood
than water does.
The tindtures both in water and in fpirit arc of
a fine red, with an admixture, particularly in the
watery one, of a violet or purple. Volatife alka-
line falts or fpirits incline the colour more to purple.
The vcgetat)ie and nitrous acids render it pale, the
vitriolic and marine acids deepen it.
The watery decodtion, wrote with on paper,
lofes its rednefs in a few days and becomes wholly
viokt. This colour it communicates alfo to
woollen
234 THE dyer's ASSISTAN'T.
woollen cicth previoufly prepared by boiling with
a foluiion of aluin and rartar. The dye is beau-
tiful, but very perllhabie. It is often ufed by tiie
Dyers as an inj^redient in compound colours, for
procuring certr,in fliacies wiiich are not eafii}- hit by.
other materials.
With chalybeate folutions it ftrikes a black.
Hence it is employed in conjunclion with ihofe
liqujrs tor ftaining wood black ror picture frames,
&c. and \viti\ tiie addition of galls for dying cloih-
and hats black. The black dyes in which tliis
wood is an ingredient, have a particular lulVe and
fofrnefs, far beyond thofe made with viir.ol and
•galls alone. The beauty however whi.h it here
imparts is not perrnanent, any mere than as own
natural vio'et d\e.
On the fame principle it improves alfo the luftre
and blacknefs of writing-ink. Ink made with vi-
triol and gaiis does not attain to its full blacknefs,
ti ] atier it has Iain fome time upon ine paper. A
due addition or Logwood renders it of a deep black
as u flows fro.n the pen, efpeciaily vvhen vinegar or
white wine is ufed for tiie .nenlfruum.
Decoctions and exrraits ma.le from logwood
have an agreeable fweetifti tafte, followed by a flight
aftri'.gency. Ihey haveJa'eiy been introducea in-^
to medicme, and given with fuccefs m cafes where
mi! i reftnngents are required. They ot'ten tinge
the ilools, and fometimes the urine of a red colour.
CHAP. VIII.
THE PROCESS OF PRUSSIAN BLUE.
PRUSSIAN blue is prepared by precipitating a
folution of green vitriol and alum with a
hxivium drawn from fixe i alkali e fait that has
been calcined with ani.nal coals. Commonly about
three parts of alkali and two. of dried ox.- blood jre
ealcined
THE dyer's assistant. 235
calcined fo long as any flame appears, then thrown
into boiling water, and the ftrained decoiEtion
poured into a hot mixture of folutions of four parts
of alum and one or lefs of vitriol. The liquor be-
comes inftantiy thick or curdly, and looks at firft
of a greyilh colour, which changes to a brown and
in a little time to a bluifti green. The matter, be-
ing well ftirred together, and mixed with a quantity
of hard fpring water, a green precipitate fubfidcs :
fpirit of fait poured upon the edulcorated powder
diflblves a part, and leaves therefl blue.
Mr. Geoffrey is the fir(\ who has given any
plauuble theory of this procefs, or any rational
means for improving it. He obfrrves, that the
Pruffun blue is no other than the iron of the vitriol,
revived by the inflammable matter of the alkaline
lixiviuot, and ptrhaps brightened by an adinixture
of the white earth of alum ; that the green colour
proceeds fron a part of the yellow ferrugineous
calx or ochre unrevived, mixing with tlie blue,
and that the fpirit of f;lt diflolves this ochre more
readily than the blue part, though it will dilTolve
that alfo by long ftanding, or if ufed in too large
quantity. From thefe principles he was led to in-
creafe the quantity of inflammable matter, that
there might be enough to receive the whole of the
ferrugineous ochre, and produce a blue colour at
once without the ufe of the acid fpirit. In this he
perfectly fucceeded, and found at the fame time that
the colour mi^ht be rendered of any degree of deep-
nefs or lighmcfs at pleafure.
If the alkali is calcine' with twice its weight of
dried blood, and the lixivium obtained from it,
poured into a folution of one part of vitriol, to
fix of alum, the liquor acquires a very pale blue
colour, and depofits as pale a precipitate. On
adtiing more and more of a frefli folution of vitriol,
the colour becomes deeper and deeper, almoft to
blacknefs,
236 THE dyer's assistant.
blacknefs. He imagines with great probability,
that ttie blue pieinent thus prepared will prove more
durable in the air, mingle more pertecliy with other
colours, and be lefs apt to injure the luflrc of fuch
as are mixed with, or applied to its neigl\bourhood,
th:m that made in the common manner; the tar-
iiiih and other inconveniences to which the com-
mon Prufilan blue is fubject, feeming to proceed
from the acid and fpirit, which cannot be totally fe-
parated by any ablution.
He takes notice alfo of an amufing phaenomenon
which happens upon mixture. When the liquors
are well ftirred together, and the circular motio;i
as foon aspoffibie llopt ; fome drops or folution of
vitriol (depurated by Jong fettling) let tall on dif-
ferent pans of the furface. divide, fpread, and form
curious reprefen-ations of flowers, trees, fhrubs,
fiying inftcS^s, ^:c. in great regularity and perfec-
tion. Thefe continue ten or twelve minutes, and
on ftirring the liquor again, and dropping in fome
more of the folution ot vitriol, are fuccceded by a
new pidure.
Mr, Alacquer has ingenioufly applied the pre-
paration of this pigment to the dying ot wool and
filk, and found means of fixing the blue fecula in
tiieir pores. By dipping cloth firft in a diluted
folution of vitriol and alum, then in the ley di-
Juted, and afterwards in water accidulated with
fpirit of vi'riol, it acquires a light blue colour,
which becomes deeper and deeper on repeating the
dippings alternately in the fame order as before ;
adding to the liquors each time a little more of the
refpecltve faline nntters. The blue dye, he fays,
in beauty and luftre exceeds that of indigo and
woad, as far as fcarlet does the madder red, and
penetrates the whole fubft:ance of fulled cloth with-
out weakening it. The colour is durable in the
air, and ftands boiling wiili alum water, but is dif-
charged
THE DYER S ASSISTANT, J37
charged by foap, and, without certain precautions,
liable to be fpecky or unequal. See the Memoirs of
the French Academy for the year 1749.
CHAP. IX.
ALKANET-ROOT.
THE roots of alkanet in many rei'pecls very
much refemble faunders wood, but differ
from it remarkably in others. They impart an
elegant deep red to pure fpirit of wine, to oils, to
wax, and to un<5luou3 fubflances : I do not know
of any red drug that tinges oil of fo fine a colour.
To water they give only a dull browniih red. The
fpirituous liquor, on being infpifTated to the con-
fiftence of an extradl, ir.ftead of preferving its fine
red like that of faunders, changes to an unfightly
brown.
Volatile fpirits have been faid to gain from this
root a beautiful violet or amethyft colour; but I
have not found that they extradt any colour but
a dull reddilh brown.
The alkanet plant is a fpecies of buglofs, named
by Tournefort, buglojfum radice rubra, five dnchufa
vu/gatior Jloribus cceruleh. It is a native of the
warmer parts of 'Europe, and cultivated in fome of
cur gardens. The greatefl quantities are raifed in
Germany and France, particubrly about Mont-
pelier, from whence we are chiefly fupplied with the
roots.
The alkanet root produced in England is much
Inferior in colour to tiiat brought from abroad j
the former being only lightly reddiOi, the latter of
a deep purplifli red. This has induced fome to
fufpecl: that the foreign roots owe part of their
colour to art, but a chymical examination teaches
other-
238 THE dyer's assistant.
otherwife. The cclourine matter is found upon
exrs rinient, to be of the fame kind in bcth, and to
differ in feveral of its properties from that of ZA the
ct;.er known red drUi:S ; fo that no art.fi:e appears
to be practicable without difcovcry, unlefs if was
concentrating the colour of two roots into one, or
fjperfaturating ore root with the colour extracted
from an th '-r.
The principsi ufe of a!kanet-rcot is for colcur-
irg 01 s, unguents, hp-falvej, plaiders, Sec. W zx
ti'-ged with it, applied on warm raarble, ftains it
of a flefh col'.ur, which finks deep into the ftone.
The ipirituous tincture gives a deep red ftain.
The colour of this root is confined to the cor-
tical part, the p.th bring vhitiih ; hence as the
fm.all roots have more bark in proportion to their
bu k than the large ones, thofe ahb contain moit
colour.
CHAP. X.
OF ALUM.
NATURE produces no perfect alum, but
affords the materials for it in fundry ores,
pvrirce, ftoncs, fiates, earths, v.'iters, and bitun.ens,
as pit coal. Some late experiments by Mr.
Gecffrey and Mr. Pot have fiiown that the earth
of 3ium is contained in cJay, and that a true alum
may be prepared by digeffing clay in the vitriolic
acid. Both thefe geiitlc-men imagine tnat only a
particular part of the cia) is here extracted.
Whether it exifted originaliy in the cisy, pof-
fcfTed or the fame properties which it is round to
have when extracleri, or whether it has fufFered a
change in the cperaticn, they have not de;ermined.
From the experia.ents I have made, the latter
2 feems
THE over's assistant. 239
feems to be the cafe. Powdered tobacco-pipe-clay,
bein^ boiledy in a confiderable quintity or oil of
vitriol, and the fire continued to dryntfs, the mat-
ter, exa<nined when srown cold, c'llcovers fcircely
any tarte, or only a flight acidul us one. On ex-
pofure to the air f .r a tew clays, tlie gre'teft part of
it is found changed into ianugir'ous efflorefcences
in tafte exatftly like aiuin : the remainder treated
■with frelh oil ot vitrio) in the fame manner, exhi-
bits the fa i.e phaenomena, and this repeatedly, till
nearly the whule of the clay is converted into an
aftnngent fait.
If the earth be feparated again from the acid, (hy
difljlving the fait in water, and precipitating with
any alkaline fait) it is now found to diflblve with
cafe in every acid ; to form wirn the vitriolic alum
again ; with the nitrous, a compouno refembling
alum in taftej with tiie vegetable acids, a fub-
ftance lefs aftringem and lefs ungrateful.
CHAP. XL
CHYMICAL HISTORY OF SAUNDERS, AND ITS DIF-
FERtNCE FROM OTHLR RED-WOODS.
RED faunders is a hard, compad^, ponderous
wood, ot a dark blacktfli red on tiie outfide,
and a light red colour within ; of no particular
fmell or tafte. It is brought from the Coromandel
coaft and from Golconda Ot th; tree we have
no certain account. Its principal ufe is as a col' ur-
ingdrug. Tnofe whofe bufmefs it is to rafp and
gritid it into powder, probably employ certain
faline or other additions to improve the colour j
whence the remarkable differences in tl^e colour of
powdered faunders prepared in different places.
That of StrcAurgh is of the deepeft and livelieft
red. Some forts are of a dead dark red, and fome
of
J40 THE dyer's assistant.
t
of a pale brick red; fome incline to purple or
violet, and fome to brown.
The colour of this wood refides wholly in its
refin, and hence is extracted by redlified fpirit,
whilft water, though it takes up a portion of
mucilaginous matter, gains no tinge, or only a
flight yeJlowlfh one. From two ounces of the
wood were obtained by fpirit of wine three drachms
and a half of relinous extra6t, and afterwards by
water, a fcrup'e of mucilage. By applying water at
iirft, 1 obtained from two ounces two drachms and
fix grains of a tough irjucilaginous extract, which
could not eafily be reduced to drynefs. The re-
mainder ftil! yielded, with fpirit, two drachms of
refin. The indifoluble matter weighed, in the
firft cafe, an ounce and a half and fifteen grains ;
in the latter, nineteen grains lefs. Neither the
diiliHed water nor fpirit had any remarkable tafte
or f.riell.
"I^he red colour of faunders appears to be no
other than a concentrated yellow, for by bare dilu-
tion it becomes yellow. A grain of the refia-
ous extract, diffolved in an ounce of reclified fpirit,
tinges it red, but this folution, mixt with a quart
of fredi fpirit, gives only a yellow hue. HofFmaa
reports that this refin does net give a tincture to any
kind of oil. 1 have tried five oils, thofe of amber,
turpentine, almonds, annifeeds, and lavender. It
gave no colour to the two firft, but a deep red to
the laftj and a paler red to the other two.
CHAP. XII.
OF YERDIGRISE.
IT may not be amifs to give the reader a chyml*
cal hint of verdigrifc.
\ciz-
THE DYfR's ASSISTANT. 24T
Vegetable acids diffolve copper flowly, but in
confiderable quantity ) the folution (hoots into
bluifh green cryftals, fimilar to the verdigrifcj
arugo or viride aris^ of the (hops. This prepa--
ration is made in large quantities in France, parti-
cularly about Montpelier, by ftratifying copper-
plates with the.hufks of grapes remaining after th3«
juice has been preft out. Thefe foon become acid,
and corrode the copper.
Verdigrife (hould be chofen in cakes, not moid"
or undtuous, but dry, compact, and of an uniform
texture, of a lively green colour throughout, as
free as- poflible from white and black fpecks, and
feeds or ftalks of the grape. It is purified by
folution in , diftilled vinegar, and cryftalization^ .
and then called, improperly, diftilled verdigrife or
flov^ers of copper. The Dutch who prepare thefe
cryftals in large quantities, after duly evaporatiiig
ihe folution, fet it to fhoot, not, as is cuftomary,
in a cold but in a warm place, as praiTiifed in mak-
ing fugar- candy.
If redtified fplrlt of v/inc be added to the folu-
tion, or if volatile alkalis be added to a folution of
copper and fpirit of wine to this mixture, fmall blue
chryftals v^ill .be immediately formed. Thefe are -
called by fome antepileptic cryftals of copper.
Highly re61:ifisd f(;irit of wine, digefled on half
an ounce, or twelve fcruples of powdered verdi-
grife, difTolved three fcruples and a half 5 ordinary
redtified fpirit, four fcruples ; common malt fpiriis,
four and a half, and French brandy kvcn and a
half. Water diiTolved, out of the fame q'jantity,
five fcruples. Common wine vinegar dillblved lill
but fifteen grains, and diftilled vinegar, all but tsa
grains. Tiic whole quantity of verdigrife dilTolved
in either kind of vinegai, could not be recovered
again in a cryftaline form.
L.. From ;
24'2 ^^2 dyer's assistant.
From the common vinegar only tv/o fcruples and
five grains cryftalized, and from the diftilled vine-
gar three fcruples. The refiduum in the firft cafe
continued fcfrifh, in the latt<:r dry. With French
brandy there was no cryftalization at all; the
whole that the fpirit had taken up remaining uni-
formly mixt into the confiftence of an extra£l.
A HINT
H I N
TO THK
Dyers and Cloth-Makers.
AND WELL WORTH THE NOTICE OP
THE MERCHANT.
By JAMES HAIGH,
SLATE SILK AND MUSLIN-DYER, LEEDSo
PREFACE,
/ e ^HE Author of the Dyer's Assistant
X thinks it his duty, in gratitude to the pro-
feffors in that noble art, to fubfcribe his hearty
thanks for their approbation of, and encourage-
ment given to that work, in this and every part of
England. It is well known my defign is not to
teach ftrangers to dye ; but to help the thinking
part of the Dyers to improve ; and to fhov/ them
how I fpend fome of my leifure hours to help
them, as well as myfelf, to a moft neceilary know-
ledge. It is well known by that body of people,
and felt too by fome, that the price for dying
woollen goods nath been much reduced of late.
Many circumftanccs having determined me, long
fince, to acquire all pofiible knowledge in th&
practice of dying, I am therefore conftrained once
more to recommend a ftri6l inquiry into the ori-
ginal quality of all the drugs they ufe, that thereby,
if poilible, they may difcover fome of the man/
hidden advantages that mayjuftly be expsdled
therefrom.
i am aftonifhed that no artift has ever attempted
to improve this mofl ingenious art on chymical
principles. I begun the work, in hopes that my
mafter-piece would undertake to improve it> but
in vain do 1 expedl it.
L 3 A word
246 PREFACE.
J Word to thethhiklng Part of Dyers,
If you were fenfible of the double advantage
that migiit be acquired in the ufe of many of vour
vegetable drugs, which muft be firfb grounded on
chymical experiments in miniature, which will be a
certain rule to the practice at lar^e, I am certain
you would not reft till you had made ibme im-
proverrient.
If after you h?.ve been dying with that refinous
drug, faunders, when einptying the veiTel you take
up a handful, dry it and digeft it in a phial with
fome pure fpirits of wine, and it will c^fFcrd you ari
excellent red, water being infufficient to ciiTolve the
refin, and let out the prime part of the colour^
Many others may be difcovered if an unwearied at-
tention was paid.
Many will cenTure and dfefpife this, tor no other
reafon than bec-ufe th^y cannot fee into it; nor
will they be at any pains tc earn and improve their
talents. They feem rather to choofe the old
round, like a horfe in a mill, having no fjirit or
courage to improve, but content with each know-
ing the other's method, without ftnving to excel,
and oifc-'^ver more complete and lefs expenfive
ways ot working, and uHng the drugs to the beft
advantage.
I know not how men can fjt ftill when there is
more to learn. Let it not be faid of you, as of one of
old, *'he lived and died and did nothing ;" perhaps
he worked with his hands, -ut his head was aileepj
and therefore he was an unprofitable fervant, and
when dead, his memory was no more. Sure it is,
the invitation I have to write and publifh this
fmall pamphlet is not fo much to pleale oilers, or
to fhow any thing I have is capable of the name
of
PREFACE. 247
of parts, but to communicate my good wlfhes for
improvement to my brethren the Dyer?, and to
fhow them my willingnefs to help to perfe6l one of
the moft ufeful arts in the world.
I (hall leave all to itfelf, and to every man's
juft liberty to approve, or difapprove, as he pleafes.
And however it be, the author fhall not be much
troubled, for he is certain no man can have a
lighter efteem for him, than he has for himfelf ;
who, however, will be bert pleaftd, if any man
fhall find benefit by what he has wrote. If any
fhould allege a general acceptation, that, to the
author, will be no prevailing argument ; for the
multitude, though moft in number, are the worft
and moft partial judges. He does not plead the
importunity of friends fcr the publication of this.
If it is worthy, it needs no apology; if not, ht it
be defpifed i and I remain the fame friend to trade.
JAMES HAIGH.
L4 AHIN'
A HINT TO THE DYERS, &c.
BLACK being a primitive colour, and one of
the moft difHcuit to perfe£t, deferves a few
remarks. If I afk a Dyer what ingredients com-
pofe a black, the anfwer will be this : Logwood,
fhumac, bark, and copperas j and if he knows it, he
will add a little afties and argol in the laft wet. If
I afk him which of thefe drugs contain an acid,
which an alkaline, and which a neutral quality, he
cannot give me an anfwer : fo you fee he knows
the effed, but a ftranger to the caufe, and every
elfe thing feparate from fail and cuftom.
. What a pity it is that men will not fearch things
to the bottom, when they might be able to find
out the caufe of mifcarriages, for which goods are
frequently throw^n afide to be dyed other colours,
greatly to the Dyer's lofs. In converfing with a
fenfible Dyer, I fimply alked him, What part does
logwood a£l in the black dye? the honeft man
as fimply anfwered, " It helps to make it black."
No other proof was wanted to know that he alfo
followed his forefathers in the old round. But the
reader*
250 A HINT TO DY£RS, &C.
reader, by now, thinks it time to be informed of
the bufinefs of logwood; which is (it ufed in a
right proportion) to foften the goods, and give
luftre to the colour. Logwood being pofieffed of
a moft excellent aftringent quality, fixes itfelf in
the pores of the goods, and gives them a velvet-
like feel and glofs.
Some will obje£^ to tliis afiertion, and fay, but
cur blacks have not that velvet-like feel and glofs.
True, Sir, but don't you know the reafon ? you
dye your blacks without fcouring, forgetting, or
not knov/ing, that when the goods enter the boil-
ing dye- liquor, they grow harfh, and the oil con-
tained in ihem forms a fort of refin, which be-
comes ss fixed as if it was pitch or tar. This is
one great caufe why blacks are fo liable to foil and
dirty linen, becaufe the dye is in fome fenfe held
in an out fide or fuptrficial flate. Think then, is
it poflible fhefe goods fhculd finifh foft like velvet,
or fhine like a raven's feather ? No, on the con-
trary they fpoil the prefs papers, and come out
flifF and hard like buckram, (not velvet) and are
often three-parts perifl^ied in the finifhing. No
greater caufe can be aflljned for it than that of
not fcouring. This is the reafon of the great dif-
ference, fo fRUch fpoken of, between the London
blacks and thofe dyed at Leeds. If the Leeds
Dyers would t ike the fame pains as the Londoners
do, I think they would excel, in faft, if not in
name.
The finifhing (hops in London are not more
than half fo well fumifned with tools as thofe at
Leeds are ; and therefore let the Leeds Dyers be
equally tight and clean in their performance, and
there is nothing to prevent their fuperiority. But
the mafter Dyers give a very reafonable anfwer to
the foregoing. They fay, the price is too low,
and
A HINT TO DYERS, &C. 25!
and they cannot afford to take (o much pains.
V/hat a pity that the merchants do not confider
this ! if threepence a piece was added to the price
for dying.. thin goods black, it would about pay for
the fcouring, and tiie poods would be finiilied with
a brilliant luftre, and yet foit like a ruffe).
I fhould fpeak a httle to the nature and bufinefe
of the other drugs, which enter the compofition of
black, had I not cone it before, (fee the article
blacky Dyer's ^JfijUm^ p. 14.6 J
I am aftonifhed at the ignorance of the poor
clotli-makers, many of whom have applied to me
frequently for inflru6tions; one of them, on being
afl^ed what fort of ware, and -how much he ufed
to dye fuch a colour, ihowing him a pattern, he
anfwered, When i have a pattern given me by a
merchant, I go to the fairer, (hew hiin the order,
<tvA be fcrves me witli what is wanted, 1 con-
verfed with him feme time, and would have in-
ftru6ted him, but alas ! he had left his capacity at
home, and I might as weJl have read tiie nevi'S-
paper to him. What a pity it is that fo many
hundreds of that noble branch of bufinefs work,
as it were, blindfolded, and poverty bitten too, for
want of inftrudl'ions, v/hich they have no fpirit to
feekj.wiio, when they bring a cloth to the market,
are glad to fell it for one and fixpence, or two
fhillirigs in the pound profit, when they ini^ht as
eafily gain five or fix (hillings, if they knew how
to ufe their drugs. But I defpair ot doing that for
them, which nature has left undone; for, with-
out I could teacii them to fee wl:h a Dyer's eye, I
might taik and write for ever in vain.
But there is another clafe of cloth- makers, to
whom I will give a ufeful hint, and have done.
The article Iky blue dcferves our notice. This
colour is often fubftituted, (even on fine cloth) by
-the
252 A HINT TO DYERS, kc.
the Saxon blue, on account of its brilliancy and
fine luftre; but, like a fugitive, it only {lays for a
feafon. A little experience has taught me, that if
a parcel of fine wool be well fcoured, then ful-
phured or ftoved, than which nothing can make
it whiter, and then dyed in a weak vat, it will have
all the beauty of the Saxon blue, without its im-
perfedlions. The vat ufed for this purpofe ftiould.
be fet with a fmall quantity of indigo, on purpofe
for light (hades, when the (hades will be always
brighter than when dyed in an old vat that has
been weakened by dying dark colours. But the
Jjyers tell you that blues bear fo low a price, and
indigo is fo dear, that they cannot afford to fet
frefh vats for light (hades. Here is a fufficient
caufe, and one very great reafon of retarding the
perfedion of many colours. If the wool before-
mentioned (hould be obftrucSled in the milling, by
means of the fulphur, (of which I have not had
experience) I would commend the dying of the
wool after fcouring only, and (love it after it is
milled, which I think will anfwer the fame pur-
pofe ; and the beauty of the colour will amply pay
for every fuperfluous work.
I would recommend to the Dyers, after wafhing
the dark blues well at the river, to turn the cloth
very quick through a warm vefTel of water, in
which has been dKTolved a little alum, and they
will fee a furprifing change in the luftre from that
ilmple procefs.
I am not willing to omit any thing worth notice
in the courfe of my experiments. I will, there-
fore, lightly touch the properties of common
water. By a great number of experiments, I am
thoroughly convinced, that different waters with
the fame ingredients ftrike different colours. I
find
A HINT TO DYERSj &C, 1^^-
find that the pureft and llghteft v/aters flrike the
beft light colours.
All the dye-houfes at a diftance from the river-
in London are furniflied with wood cifterns which
hold perhaps from one to two hundred hogfheads
of water, which is fupplied from the water works,,
and is always impure, and frequently muddy; when
on {landing a confiderable time, as is the cafe at"
fome feafons of the year, it becoi'.es putrid and
emits a foetid fmell ; if fufFered to fland longer, it
purifies itfelf, and becomes fweet and clear, as well
as confiderably lighter. I have fometimes filled a
veffel wiien the water has been all of a ferment,
and flunk almoft beyond bearing, which at a
boiling heat was no more felt ; by adding a handful
of common ftarch and a fmall bit of alum, all the
filth is made to rife, and is taken off with a ladle
for that purpofe. The fuperior goodnefs of the
water obliges us to afcribe an advantage to the -
London Dyers of light colours; add to this their
remarkable cleanlinefs. When a vefTel is boiling •
they watch it carefully ; and with a mop, kept for
that purpofe, they rub off the fcum all round at
the water's edge, fo that the liquor is perfedly
clear.
AJhort Remark on the Dye of Brazil wood.
Tt is impoflible to wear a red, a dove colour, a
crimfon, purple, light or deep violet, or any other -
colour, the produce of Brazil wood ufed recently
many wceks^ without fading, fpotting, or foiling.
If thefe colours were dyed in grain they would in-
deed coft fomething more, but you have then a
colour which will continue beautitul as long as the
ftljfF or cloth will lad ; and if fpotted with dirt of
greafe, can eafily be fcoured and cleaned withou?^
danger of lofmg or injuring the colour,
I boiled
254- A KIN'T TO DYERS, SCC.
1 boiled fifty pounds of Brazil chips one hour, I'tt"-
a copper of the hardeil fpring water I could find,
and carefully, took off the fcutr, turned this liquor
over into a brge tub, and re-heated the copper to
boil the chips a fecond time, when the colour was
ail extracted. I tu?n piit both liquors together,
and let it fiaad fix months^ when it was ropy and
thick like oil. Now having prepared a fmall piece
of fine cicth in alum and four bran-water, and
kept it rooift five days unwafhed out of the alum,
I boiled one nut-gall and one quart of Brazil liquor
ten nninutes, then lir.fed my "icce of cloth, and
dyed it a very teautiful marone. But the chief
renwrk I intend to make here, is, that I hung this
piece of cloth in the open air nig";;t and day during
four feverc winter months, and it lad rather gained
in beaaty of colour, and was grown rather deeper.
This is a f.fEcient proof that chyiriiftry hath a power
of fecuri^g the fire particles of thofe vegetables
which are now called baftard drugsj Experiments
(which are the beft guides in natural philofophv,
ss well as in arts) plainly ihow that a great ad-
vantage might arifc in favouf of the ftudious prac-
titioier, who is not weaned if he mifs his defign
after twenty or diirty trials, ' ut ftiil purfues his plan
till he has hit it ; for nothing of the kind feems to
be impoffible.
A fiw Experimental Obftrvations en the Dye cf
Co:hineal.
After all the common procefles of dying with ■
cochineal, there is found at the bottom of the veflel
a deep brown fediftient. This fediment appears to
•C^nfift or the impurities of the tartar, and the ■
groifer parts of the powdered cochineal. This
being Ughtly waihed with clear cold water, dried
and
A HINT TO DYSRSj &C. 255
and ground on a marble, with one fourth its
weight of fine tartar, into an impalpable powder,
and then put into water with a little alum, a piece
of white cloth boiled in this. liquor three quarters
of an hour acquired a very beautiful cricnfon dye.
This experiment evinces, that, by reducing
cochineal into a powder of moderate finenefs as
commonly prailifed, we do not gain all the advan-
tage which this- valuable commodity is capable of
yielding.
If the cochineal, when taken from the vefiel,.
(after the fcarlets are dyed) is treated as above, the
laving in the cochineal, whether for fcarlet or crim-
fon, will be about one third. Though lefs tartar
is ufually employed in the dye-liquor, yet this
quantity here directed does no harm ; it appeared
on trial that the colour was rather the more folid
for it. All urinous and alkaline liquors or fub-
ftances ftain fcarlet to a crimfon, by deftroying the
effect of the acid. Hence, in pure country air,
fcarlet retains its luftre much longer than in cities
and tov/ns, where alkaline and urinous vapours
are more abundant. 1 he dirt of roads and fundry
fubftances of the acrid kind, leave no ftain oii
fcarlet, if the part be wafhed immediately in pure
water, and wrung in a clean linen cloth. If the
dirt is fuffered to dry, a blackifh violet fpot will
remain, which can only be difchargeJ by mild
vegetable acids, as vinegar, citron juice, a warm
dilute folution of cream of tartar, or four bran-
water i if thefe acids, however, be not applied v/ith
a good deal of addrefs, v/hilfl: they take out the
blackifh ftain they leave a yellow one, by diflblving
the colouring particles of the cochineal itfcif.
After at leaft a thoufand experiments, I am
obliged to conclude, that tiie dying of wool is the
mort extenfive branch of this art, it may be con-
fidered
256 A HINT TO DYERS, &C.
](Tdered as its bafis ; but the dying of fi!k, thread,
and cotton, deferves alfo our attention.
The gieat difference between thofe fubftances,
and thst of wool, is well known to the calico
printers, vvhofe grand care it is to find means of
making linen receive the fame dyes as wool does.
The phyfical caufe of the difference feems yet un-
known; and indeed, as before obferved of dyes in
general, we know as yet very little. Are animal
filaments tubular, and the colouring atoms received
within them ? are vegetable tilaments foiid, and the
colour depoured on the furface ? or, does not their
different lufceptibiNty of colour depend rather on
the dinerent intrinfic properties of the two? An
anfwer to this would doubtlefs prove of great
utility.
I fhould be happy to find fome artif^ undertake
to improve what 1 have in a poor way begun. 1
long to fee the art in perfe<5lion, one half of which
is yet in oblivion.
The reader may be aflured, that what is here
recited is purely the refult of the author's own ex-
perience, (not theory) and part of the effects of
many years fludy.
THE end;
Pontsdby T. V.ULSON an3 R.. SPENC3,-
KJgl Culegatt, ycrtt.
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